Thread: PARD TA LFR HANDHELD, yerh or narh

The pulsar xm30f is their entry level low resolution model and would be a step backwards. Also has no LRF. The next step up on the Pards for not much more is the Sytong XS models.

Originally Posted by 55six

The pulsar xm30f is their entry level low resolution model and would be a step backwards. Also has no LRF. The next step up on the Pards for not much more is the Sytong XS models.

What makes them better?

Originally Posted by Rich007

What makes them better?

Build quality, better sensor. Drop down and check one out - I'm 20 mins down the road from Levin. Customers often bring alternative products to compare.

When carrying the thermal for hunting, are you also using a standard range finder or do you use the RF in the thermal for all range finding? I am tentatively in the market for a rangefinder and a thermal, wondering if the thermal LRF models negate the need for a stand-alone RF?

I got the Pard TA32-25 a few weeks ago. Was a toss-up between that and the Sytong. I read on here that the Sytong may have better optics, but I chose the Pard not only because it was $500 cheaper but equally because it has a slim profile with the LRF built into the main body rather than bulging out the side as the Sytong does.
I've had it out twice hunting rabbits, and not disappointed, can easily pick them up at 400+ metres. Also both times found hedgehogs and rats out in the paddocks too, that I'd never seen with a spotlight or NV, which highlights the extra capability. Not that I'm into shooting hedgehogs, rats maybe...

The first time I used it I rushed out from the car to see what I could see, hoping not to be underwhelmed after outlaying $2200.... Immediately picked up a couple of rabbits right from the fence, a couple of paddocks away. Pretty fuzzy but still obviously rabbits, and easily discernable from the horses . So I was pretty happy. Went after them and a few others, all good. Then about half an hour later with another couple of bunnies in view, I was fumbling around with the buttons trying to get the video going, and suddenly everything went crystal clear and sharp as! Turned out I unwittingly had the digital zoom way up, and I'd just dropped it back to 1x (2.6x optical)! So my happiness level went from completely satisfied, to pretty darn impressed.

Only negative I had was that the diopter adjustment on the eyepiece is easily adjusted and would get turned in and out while going in and out of my bino pouch, every now and then I'd become aware of it being not as sharp as it could be, but easily fixed.
I've since designed a 3D-printed mounting system for my backpack shoulder strap like youtubers have for their SLR's, which is mint. Allows the thermal to be deployed or stowed one-handed, so long as you have a dextrous enough pinky finger to hit the on switch. (Beats me why they didn't put it under your index finger but no big deal.) Might post that at some point in case anyone's interested.

Originally Posted by stickman

I got the Pard TA32-25 a few weeks ago. Was a toss-up between that and the Sytong. I read on here that the Sytong may have better optics, but I chose the Pard not only because it was $500 cheaper but equally because it has a slim profile with the LRF built into the main body rather than bulging out the side as the Sytong does.
I've had it out twice hunting rabbits, and not disappointed, can easily pick them up at 400+ metres. Also both times found hedgehogs and rats out in the paddocks too, that I'd never seen with a spotlight or NV, which highlights the extra capability. Not that I'm into shooting hedgehogs, rats maybe...

The first time I used it I rushed out from the car to see what I could see, hoping not to be underwhelmed after outlaying $2200.... Immediately picked up a couple of rabbits right from the fence, a couple of paddocks away. Pretty fuzzy but still obviously rabbits, and easily discernable from the horses . So I was pretty happy. Went after them and a few others, all good. Then about half an hour later with another couple of bunnies in view, I was fumbling around with the buttons trying to get the video going, and suddenly everything went crystal clear and sharp as! Turned out I unwittingly had the digital zoom way up, and I'd just dropped it back to 1x (2.6x optical)! So my happiness level went from completely satisfied, to pretty darn impressed.

Only negative I had was that the diopter adjustment on the eyepiece is easily adjusted and would get turned in and out while going in and out of my bino pouch, every now and then I'd become aware of it being not as sharp as it could be, but easily fixed.
I've since designed a 3D-printed mounting system for my backpack shoulder strap like youtubers have for their SLR's, which is mint. Allows the thermal to be deployed or stowed one-handed, so long as you have a dextrous enough pinky finger to hit the on switch. (Beats me why they didn't put it under your index finger but no big deal.) Might post that at some point in case anyone's interested.

You made a great choice as I really rate my pards as I have the same thermal as you and just setting up the new 4k NV scope this week.
Bang for buck and serviced local with modern leading technology with the enclosed ballistics app with the NV scope.
I got the 950 light so keen to see how that goes.
Just sorted the zero moa rail so now mounted and ready for testing!

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

Just to add to my already long post above... one thing I really wondered about and could never find any real info on was how much focusing is required while scanning different ranges.
I always find my Sytong HT66 clip-on NV unit a bit of a pain when going between short and long ranges and needing to adjust the objective on the scope all the time, so was worried the thermal might be similar.
It does need to be focused at the extreme ends of the range for optimal clarity, eg. when going from 400m to 20m, but to be honest I can happily leave it set for mid-range and still be able to see perfectly clearly to identify animals. And not just white rabbit-sized blobs, I can clearly see shape and ears even if not focused in perfectly.
So no you don't need to continually re-focus, unless you want to watch animals for ages, or make nice a crisp video.

And don't need a separate rangefinder at all, it's easy to switch on and off. When on it scans continuously.