Thread: What rope and knots do you use when hunting

Paracord or other 4-5 mm synthetic cord is good for most things but look at your application first.


If you think you're going to fall on it or abseil with it you need a rated climbing rope . At least "8.5mm single rope" and it will set you back 2 or 3 kg in your pack and a few hundred on your bank balance. So unless you have training ( in which case you will know what you need) DONT COUNT ON A ROPE SAVING YOUR LIFE"

For a ridge rope on a fly it's best to have zero stretch so spectra (and before that kevlar) is ideal if you want to spend the money. You won't be cutting it up for bootlaces.

For guy ropes some stretch is good to avoid ripping the fly or tent in a big gust. I've got fine 2mm cord on mine which can tangle a bit but saves weight and I can make them long enough to be useful.

Hemp hawser laid rope, twine and sisal (single steand) arexthings of the past except unless you're lashing poles together (ancient art form and very satisfying). Binder twine and cheap polypropylene hawser laid ropes are an abomination.

A basic set of knots would be:

Two hitches to fix rope to a pole/tree
Clove hitch
Round turn and two half hitches

Two knots to join ropes
Reef knot (and derivatives) easy to undo but not strong or secure.
Fisherman's knot (and double) strong, secure but locks up tight after loading.
If you know the sheet bend to join ropes of different diameters that's a bonus.

Two knots to put a loop on the end of a rope
Double figure 8
Bowline (uses less rope and can be tied with one hand)

Another knot that can be useful is the overhand knot (also called the ring bend or water knot) it's the basis of the reef knot and the tape knot.