Tinkered with the trigger on my 10/22 (first one I did is great) and am getting the odd slam fire and light primer strike any thoughts
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Tinkered with the trigger on my 10/22 (first one I did is great) and am getting the odd slam fire and light primer strike any thoughts
Show us the tinkering that you have done
I'll try and get pics but basics like polishing the sear beveling the back of the bolt and polishing the sides and top of the bolt and drilled the hole in the back for the cleaning rodQuote:
Originally Posted by Mintie
Could be that its not going fully into battery. Check bolt face stuff is clean and breechface.
This could be multiple things?. Sear engagement is one i.e trigger release and engagement , debris in/around firing pin & trigger mechanism , dirty action , assembly of trigger ? etc . But the first port of call should always be a through clean tip to toe .
It’s hard to diagnose over the internet so take what I say with a grain of salt but given you said you polished parts of the bolt and your now getting slam fires and light strikes I would consider the possibility of grit residue in the firing pin channel causing friction or complete firing pin lock up.
Solution ? flush / clean and blast with compressed air or completely remove firing pin and clean it and the channel and reinstall and carefully test fire
Good luck
Thanks for the replies I've stripped it all again cleaned it and reassembled will test it again hopefully during the week
First up check your headspace in the bolt face, which is a good idea anyway.
It's all been said above, but to narrow it down, does it slam-fire because the hammer rides the bolt into battery (trigger sear issue) or otherwise the firing pin is not free in the groove, which would also cause the light strikes.
When it was slam firing it was letting 2 rounds go on one trigger pull,the light primer strike ones there was no click or anything when you ejected the round it had a light firing pin strike on it
Sounds like the sear doing the double taps without seeing it. Had an old winchester that did the same thing
Stripped and cleaned now it's not resetting, if you hand cock it it works as it should, but once fired it will chamber the second round but isn't resetting the firing pin and the bullet has a light primer strike, rack by hand and it repeats, no double fires though so have one problem sorted
Are you shooting subs or supers?,
As above, hard to diagnose over the internet, but sounds like the bolt isn't running all the way back with recoil. Not going far enough back to cock the hammer inside the trigger mech but going far enough back to skim a round from the mag. So when it runs forward, it pushes a round into the chamber and the partially cocked hammer drops on the round causing the lite strike.
Conjecture again due to online diagnosis, but possibly beveling the back of the bolt, removed the section of the bolt that was previously pushing the hammer back into cocked position?.
I figured out a long time ago that messing with a fire control group. with limited knowledge ant tools isn't smart
even a gunsmith will be very reluctant to take metal away from the engagement surfaces they may give a very light polish to remove burrs but for the most part they do not remove any metal. innless absolutely required and if so, it will be done extremely carefully and accurately. one thou or 0.25mm can make a massive difference like the difference between a safe trigger and and unsafe trigger.
gunsmith trigger jobs normally consist of adjusting spring tensions. this is reversable if you get it wrong. unlike removing metal
take your rifle to a gunsmith!
I figured out a long time ago that messing with a fire control group. with limited knowledge ant tools isn't smart
even a gunsmith will be very reluctant to take metal away from the engagement surfaces they may give a very light polish to remove burrs but for the most part they do not remove any metal. innless absolutely required and if so, it will be done extremely carefully and accurately. one thou or 0.25mm can make a massive difference like the difference between a safe trigger and and unsafe trigger.
gunsmith trigger jobs normally consist of adjusting spring tensions. this is reversable if you get it wrong. unlike removing metal
take your rifle to a gunsmith!
Yep, and you can say that again.
Lol was a glitch obviouslyQuote:
Originally Posted by Slug
Sounds like youve knackered the sear and or trigger, hammer by messing with engagement angles.
All bits you should leave well alone when you dont seem to know how it all works.
You could try the installing the trigger group from the first one you did. If all works as it should, then buying a new trigger group could be a solution.
Yep did that today gun worked as it should, so going to change out the sear and hammer or might even buy a fancy new trigger group all doneQuote:
Originally Posted by longshot
Come on we all were young once...
Gotta start learning smithing somewhere.
There's a really good online publication on smiting 10/22s
Can't find it on phone, but will send u a copy when I get back to oz
I was witness to what happens when you take polishing/sanding materials to sears on 10/22.an army colleague of mine had a bit of a know all boyfriend who against good advice did this .on a practise shoot for a battalion competition K loads her wee ruger up ...........holy shit a burst of 10rounds down the range . our acting range controller took the gun over ,stopped all shooting and test fired again -same result 10round burst .gun was rendered verbotten on the pot ,on grounds it was too dangerous.
so called boyfriend made himself scarce later left her altogether in a very cowardly shiity way ..but thats enough of that story .
Ive got two 10/22 rifles -nobloody way would i even think about tinkering with triggers ,any triggers for that matter.better to ermpty wallet into tender hands of pet gunsmith.
Ah well now you know for next time eh. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by country cuts
Just an up date I didn't let it beat me and after working through a couple of problems the trigger works as it should thanks to those who offered help
Good to hear! What was the issue in the end, out of interest?
I had taken to much of the outside of the hammer so re ground the inside to get better engagement this worked well, created another issue when cooked and Safety on then pull the trigger the sear was dropping a bit low and would fire when the Safety was released, bit of weld on the bottom of the sear and done