There are a few to stay away from as well. Anshutz semi 22lr is one off the top of my head, they tend to snap in half and its not repairable.
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There are a few to stay away from as well. Anshutz semi 22lr is one off the top of my head, they tend to snap in half and its not repairable.
Norinco JW-15 are a Chinese copy of Brno. As such they are very accurate! My mate in Hawkes Bay bought one in the late 70's, early 80's and was amazed at how incredibly accurate it was.
My advice is clean it, clean it, clean it! Get a pot of JB BORE BRIGHT and scrub the bore, then follow on with the normal Number 9 or white spirits. Clean it and polish it until the bore shines like a mirror and a light shining down it resembles a lighthouse beacon. Make sure you clean inside the breach and not just the barrel. Then fully dismantle the bolt, clean and polish it inside and out. Clean the receiver and lightly oil everything until the bolt slides like a train on greased tracks.
Some people say, "Cleanliness is next to Godliness," but I say, "Cleanliness is next to accuracy!"
Inspect the bore. The rifling should be gleaming, clean, and easy to define, and easy to identify any defects. Look for corrosion of pitting. Also look for any sign of a mark which looks like and "O" Ring or docking ring part way down the rifling. If you see this defect it means a (wet or faulty) bullet, or bullets has gotten stuck and not cleared the muzzle, before another bullet was fired, which pushed the first bullet out. There will be a corresponding BULGE in the outside of the barrel. My father's Brno 581 had three such "O" Rings and bugles, thankfully the barrel didn't split! If the bore is stuffed, throw the rifle away.
Re-assemble the bolt and rifle, making sure everything is lubed and TIGHT!
The Bushnell Banner variable is a very good choice for rabbiting. Perfect! And you have eliminated one possible fault
Suppressor. I agree with the advice you have already been given. Have a gunsmith, or knowledgeable gun owner, check that the barrel is threaded true and correct. If the thread is faulty get it chopped off and re-threaded by a reputable gunsmith. Also, when using the rifle, check periodically that the suppressor hasn't come loose! My mate's did and he shot the side out of the baffles! Ammunition deposits carbon inside the suppressor. If your suppressor is a "Cheap and cheerful package deal," it probably cannot be dismantled and cleaned. Throw it away and buy a DPT modular suppressor, NZ made in Hamilton. Because the are modular they can be dismantled and cleaned in white spirits. I clean my DPT after every 150 - 200 rounds, your suppressor may NEVER have been cleaned and could be blocked! Use two pieces of car chami leather and two radiator hose clips to grip the modules whilst dismantling. This stops the modules getting dented and scratched. After cleaning, wipe dry and apply a thin layer of good gun grease to all internal surfaces and the threads. Carbon doesn't stick to grease. It will do no harm to clean the suppressor after every shoot while the carbon if soft, because, if left it sets like concrete! DPT is the only suppressor I use, they are very, very good!
Ammunition: Winchester burns the dirtiest but is fine in bolt action rifles, don't use it in semi-automatics. CCI burns the cleanest and is recommended by Ruger for use in the 10/22. Browning BPR is very good and my preferred high-velocity round.
Final note on new rifles. In 22 rimfire I have owned, or still own: Brno 581, CZ 512 (Piece of shit!), Toz made in USSR! Winchester Model 94 lever action (great fun!), Ruger 10/22, Walther KKJ, Anschutz (Model 1433 in 22 Hornet, not a rimfire), but now I have standardised my gun cabinet on Weirhrauch HW60J (there has been a model change to HW66J CH (Classic Hunter) the only difference being the 66J is factory threaded and has no iron sights). You won't find a Weirhrauch in any gun shop anywhere in the country (almost), because these are the best kept secret in the 22 rimfire (Hornet and 222 Remington) market. S.R Marston & Co Ltd in Christchurch are the NZ importers, talk to Craig about stock availability and which gun shops are hold stock, if any? They will not sell directly to the public, and most gun shops will try to sell you a Ruger, Tikka or CZ, but if you stick to your guns and insist on them getting one in for you, you will never have to buy another 22 for the rest of your life! And you can pass it on to your grandchildren. These are precision, German quality engineering. Probably around $1200 to $1400, but shop around. Reloaders Supplies Auckland got me the best price, about $400 cheaper than Hunting and Fishing! There was on on TradeMe in the past two months.
Happy shooting! Shoot straight!
A good bore clean is a good start but Ive found mine tend to shoot better with a fouled bore. Just be careful when your cleaning it that you dont damage the muzzle area. A rod from the chamber end would be my preferance over a bore snake. If you dont have any of the fancy solvents an old shooter I know just uses kerosine and has always had good results..
How are the triggers on a JW15 typically?
They work but a polish up of the contact surfaces improves them, as with a lot of the budget level guns. If you want a usually good shooter and youd like something to tinker with hard to go past one.
Hello Blip,
The JW15 is the be all of budget 22 rimfires, from memory the early shipment retailed for $146! The Weirhrauch HW60J is the middle-top budget range, there are other Brands which are more expensive, if spending a lot of money is the key objective??
I own four Weirhrauch (3 x HW60J, 1 x HW66J CH (Classic Hunter)) The 22LR cost $1000 off TradeMe, $1400 retail, 22 Hornet $1950, 222 Rem $2400.
The Weirhrauch HW60J chambered to 222 Rem is the most accurate rifle I have ever used. Best one shot kill on a rabbit, no sighters, just one shot 242 metres, and two small goats at 267 metres. The goat shooting wasn't tidy, but they didn't see the sun go down.
If you are lucky enough to get the 222 Weirhauch, you will never look back!
Straight shooting!
Hugh
JW15 triggers are ok stock , but very improvable with a polish and a lighter spring. Mudgripz is the go-to guy for trigger advice
Yea I know that about the weirachs had a few of their air rifles, they know how to make a trigger. Without starting a fight Id say yes and no to the be all. I my opinion theres a lot of cheap 22rf out there now and some of the older models in my opinion are better quality and can shoot just as well. If my eyes were still good id be happy with a bsa sportsman of some type, never had a bad shooting one of those. Ive had a lot of different 22s pass throught the safe jws ruger savage bsa remington erma stirling mossberg mauser baikal slazenger krico sportco anshutz off the top of my head. I guess Im lucky enough to be able to afford nice(to me) rifles. I like quality character and sometimes a bit odd.
What I have now and it fills my needs are anshutz, very nice accurate smooth high quality. Mauser, I think its a pre ww2 one a bit odd very accurate good quality. Baikal, ugly agricultural heavy pretty good quality accurate. The two budget range ones are a semi sportco good quality, old accurate for what its used for and a slazenger, good quality very accurate and old. The jws I had were as accurate as the sportco fun to tinker with but just didnt grow on me, I tried a couple of those chinese centerfires as well an sks and a couple of those bushrangers. Just didnt do it for me although the sks was fun to shoot. At the end of the day theres no right or wrong rifle as with everything beauty is in the eye of the beholder....
Everyone's experience is different eh.... I prefer winchester ammo, (old aussie made superX or 555 bulk.) CCI only if nothing else is available, aguila runs dirty, but their bulk stuff is accurate in everything I've put it through.
I also have had an anschutz semi that shot "bug holes all day"
Every trigger, but especially chinese ones, will benefit from a polish. I would also hone the bolt race and bolt on a jw, and you get a pretty slick little gun.
I don't get to town much either but i'll check h+f out for ya next time i do.
What do you mean by "polish"? A couple of of strokes with 800 grit on the top?
Identify your target beyond all doubt because you never miss (right?) and I'll be missed.
It really depends on the trigger group. All sliding surfaces should be smooth, all sears sharp, everything square and true. I usually do it by sticking emery paper on plate-glass with water, then polish components as needed. Grit would be anything from 400 to 1200 or even burnishing stones. guns that get stripped and lubed often get a finer finish than work guns, my theory is that sears actually work on an oil-film, i don't know if it makes much difference down range though. lol.