.300 WinMag Break vs Suppressor

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Originally Posted by hunter308

Just suppress it why even bother thinking about an obnoxious muzzle brake as you won't have time to put hearing protection on if you see an animal. Sorry I just hate muzzle brakes I have heard and felt the blast from one of those at a rifle range and it is not nice even with earplugs in.

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What a load of bollocks. Most animals Ive shot at range have not known I was there for possibly HOURS. I could put in plugs, walk off the hill, buy ear muffs to wear over top, walk back, have a brew and then shoot the beast.

Muzzle brakes are very practical for open tops shooting and can be managed with good plugs. Anti social yes, but I'm sure a deer would consider it the height of good manners if you made it deaf rather than drove a few 100 grains of lead through its shoulders.

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Originally Posted by Nick-D

Interesting test

Everything I have fired(not much in the mag calibres) has felt like it booted significantly less with a can on. Im sure some of it is purely perception due to less noise and muzzle flip.

Could it be that if you are getting a similar. recoil force but at a lower velocity maybe? so it lengthens out the recoil cycle and distributes the force across a longer time period?
It would be interesting to go frame by frame and check the recoil velocity of the supressed rifle vs the non supressed. Im sure some supressors reduce recoil better than others also

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Thats exactly what happens, although on his jig no suppressor and a suppressor on move the rifle similar distance, the suppressor has a lighter longer recoil so it feels much less. Id like to see a jig setup with a weight hanging over the front so the recoil of the rifle had to lift a weight, then increase the weight until the recoil couldnt lift the weight, then redo the test for each setup. That would remove the time factor and let us know the exact force that is pushing back into our shoulder.

Saying that, a suppressor will never reduce the recoil as much as a brake

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

What a load of bollocks. Most animals Ive shot at range have not known I was there for possibly HOURS. I could put in plugs, walk off the hill, buy ear muffs to wear over top, walk back, have a brew and then shoot the beast.

Muzzle brakes are very practical for open tops shooting and can be managed with good plugs. Anti social yes, but I'm sure a deer would consider it the height of good manners if you made it deaf rather than drove a few 100 grains of lead through its shoulders.

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With all due respects after being a victim of some arrogant inconsiderate prick with a muzzle brake on his rifle as far as I am concerned they are not welcome around me full stop.

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Originally Posted by hunter308

With all due respects after being a victim of some arrogant inconsiderate prick with a muzzle brake on his rifle as far as I am concerned they are not welcome around me full stop.

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Try not having your head next to the brake when someone shoots:)


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Originally Posted by hunter308

With all due respects after being a victim of some arrogant inconsiderate prick with a muzzle brake on his rifle as far as I am concerned they are not welcome around me full stop.

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Did you let your mate take a shot using your shoulder for a rest? One usually only gets to do this once. If it happened at the range, you should have been muffed and glassed up anyway.

Just my opinion.
Get DPT's magnum modular suppressor for the 300WM and reduce both recoil and save your hearing.
That way you can use it for both tops and bush hunting and not have to worry about getting muffs on.

Its not cool being young/middle aged/old and deaf, so look after your hearing, both with muffs or a suppressor.

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Originally Posted by DavidGunn

Did you let your mate take a shot using your shoulder for a rest? One usually only gets to do this once. If it happened at the range, you should have been muffed and glassed up anyway.

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Yes it was at a range guy turns up sets up targets after asking if he could do so and fails to warn me that he was going to use a brake on his rifle all i had was earplugs because I was not banking on being blasted by a friggin muzzle brake, to assume I had no hearing protection is stupid, only a friggin moron turns up with no hearing protection.

I have three 300 win mags, all are braked and one can be fitted with a suppressor that I have but generally leave it at home as I prefer the brakes.

The one that gets hammered the most is my Tikka s/s lite, fitted a B & C stock 18 months ago with AI bottom metal and 180gr accubonds doing 3040fps or a second handload doing around 2750.

Can shoot it all day long with no shoulder problems. When at a range Im mindful of other shooters and always try to find a spot at the end of the line, havnt had any complaints.

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Originally Posted by hunter308

Yes it was at a range guy turns up sets up targets after asking if he could do so and fails to warn me that he was going to use a brake on his rifle all i had was earplugs because I was not banking on being blasted by a friggin muzzle brake, to assume I had no hearing protection is stupid, only a friggin moron turns up with no hearing protection.

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Never been to a public range, but i sure as shit wouldn't take just plugs:)


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Originally Posted by BRADS

Never been to a public range, but i sure as shit wouldn't take just plugs:)


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The best noise reduction I have found is plugs. Howard Leight NRR32dB. The best 5+ muffs do not even reach that level. The biggest problem I see is that people often do not know how to PROPERLY use plugs.
IIRC muffs and plugs do SFA to improve your protection? Couldn't hurt I suppose? I have little faith in the electronic/noise cancelling ones. A least in my industry where we are subject to high noise over long terms. Unsure of the effectiveness over short exposures to higher impulse sounds like a rifle shot.
That reminds me I need to get my hearing checks up to date.

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Originally Posted by Brian

I've got a 300 mag with hardy suppressor if you get down this way your welcome to try it with and without suppressor

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Thank you thats a kind offer will be sure to hit you up if I venture south

Thanks guys has given me alot to work with , I really appreciate all the advice

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Originally Posted by DanS

Thanks guys has given me alot to work with , I really appreciate all the advice

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Any reason why the 300? Nothing wrong with it but its a lot of gun and something more vanilla like an Xx08, Xx55, Xx57 will kill any game animal in NZ. The 300 Win Mag certainly will have the extra legs but do you need them?

Plugs used properly are enough for using braked rifles, not sure why a 243requires a brake

Like I said, "used properly"

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Originally Posted by kiwijames

Any reason why the 300? Nothing wrong with it but its a lot of gun and something more vanilla like an Xx08, Xx55, Xx57 will kill any game animal in NZ. The 300 Win Mag certainly will have the extra legs but do you need them?

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This will stir up a debate but here I go,

I have currently a .243 which is my bush rifle but I have always seen animals at the 350m + distance on the tops over ridges which take hours to get round which for my setup and myself personally to shoot with I do not feel confident enough to take the shot.

So I have been saving $$ for a while now with the end goal of creating a set-up for tops/open hunting, i.e a long range setup.
I have always been fascinated about hitting paper at 1000 so that was a reason for a new rifle and the I chose the .300 win mag caliber passed on a couple of things

Obviously magnum caliber to shoot higher fps
I was tossing up between a 6.5mm and a .300 for a while and chose the .300
I know the 6.5mm is an extremely accurate caliber but felt the heavier round coupled with the advantages it gives for wind drift as I will be estimating at best would better suit my needs.

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Originally Posted by MSL

Plugs used properly are enough for using braked rifles, not sure why a 243requires a brake

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Not going on the .243 going on a .300winmag as per thread title :D

I was referring to someone else's post

Obviously if you are not using the appropriate grade then you are a muppet.

I'm not sure why you'd want a muzzle break?

Attachment 33028

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Originally Posted by GravelBen

I'm not sure why you'd want a muzzle break?

Attachment 33028

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No a muzzle "break" doesn't look so flash, a muzzle "brake" on the other hand....

How did that happened GravelBen?

I have been wearing ear plugs every working day for the last 20 years, I damaged my hearing as a kid playing with explosives of various types and suffer tinia to varying degrees.
I work in an environment where I am exposed to over limit over time(forget the numbers and ratios) and far over peak for moment for hearing safe.
Apparently accounting for normal age degradation my hearing is improving not worsening.
Due to the type of work I do I will not wear ear muffs but I will wear someone elses designed for shooting on occasion.

Just a pic I found on the net, supposedly someone was dumb enough to fire it with a bore-sight stuck in it.

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Originally Posted by GravelBen

I'm not sure why you'd want a muzzle break?

Attachment 33028

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Looks like a "Grapple Break", or multi purpose "anchor brake" or possibly the "change your undies " brake

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Originally Posted by Mauser308

Yeah. But, a piss-poor ear plug used properly is still a piss-poor plug which doesn't offer the required level of protection. Most plugs are grade 3 or grade 4 which isn't enough reduction for a break.

I know where you're coming from, but that really needed clarification as some plugs don't stop you going deaf. Some plugs are sized in such a way that if someone with the 'wrong' sized ears uses them they will actually make you go deaf - the smaller types can be dangerous and can be fitted in such a way as to damage the ear drum or outer ear or cause an inner ear (balance) issue or a show stopping migraine headache...

Best possible course of action is get your ears fitted for custom plugs or get an expert to fit you up for the right product. Sounds a bit wanky and official but I've seen some guys in my time in industry get severely inconvenienced or injured by using bad ear protection.

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I don't know where you get your information but there're some wild statements in there.

Firstly, a --well-fitting-- grade 4 earplug is good enough for damn near anything. They must be fully inserted, ie not half hanging out. Earplugs have traditionally been down-graded in rating in NZ to reflect the anatomical variability in performance.

As for plugs damaging your ear drum or causing an inner ear balance problem, that is plain wrong. No commercial plugs are small enough in diameter and long enough to reach the tympanic membrane. Short of perforating your drum by some means other than plugs, you will never get a balance issues with using plugs with small arms. Large artillery is another matter.

You did give some reasonable advice in the last paragraph


6x47 (Clinical audiologist)

This is an old pic but looks like the brake helped hold it together.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...45be03ce61.jpg


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That brake didn't break!

Thats a AI AW50 rifle , in 50 BMG calibre , and the reason it split , was it had been cleaned after a few rounds , and the cloth cleaning patch was still in the bore .
The shooter was using the high explosive/ incendary raufous ammo , this has a small HE compotent ,and the impact fuse is sensitive enough to activate when fired at the thin skin of aircraft aluminium , so it denotated in the barrel .

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Originally Posted by ChrisF

Thats a AI AW50 rifle , in 50 BMG calibre , and the reason it split , was it had been cleaned after a few rounds , and the cloth cleaning patch was still in the bore .
The shooter was using the high explosive/ incendary raufous ammo , this has a small HE compotent ,and the impact fuse is sensitive enough to activate when fired at the thin skin of aircraft aluminium , so it denotated in the barrel .

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I thought it was a AI 338 lap?
Any how who would have one of those pos AI things I heard there's plastic in the bolt somewhere?


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Actually , you are right , thier is plastic in that one , and it shows its a 50 BMG , the AI AW50 , has 2x red plastic dust covers , look like big round red dots , on either side of the action body , keeps sand and dirt out of the 2 action gas vent ports at about the 2 & 10 oclock position .
I think also one in the bolt body as well , so IF it does blow UP , the explosion goes in controlled directions .

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Originally Posted by BRADS

If you going down the suppressor road get one of these
S Series SL7 sound suppressor | Ase Utra
If your going to get a brake try either of these.
T2 Brake
D.F Maisey Gunsmithing Services, Tauranga, Smith & Wessen Guns, Rifles, Gunsmithing, Custom made Rifles
Both have there purpose and really comes down to what "you" want.


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The S7 is x2 the cost of a NZ suppressor, so its still worth it?

And twice the weight ;-)

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Originally Posted by Friwi

And twice the weight ;-)

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It's a magnum can mate, same weight as Nz 338 cans last time I checked.
I'll tell you if it's worth it soon, but from what I here more than worth it, but I'm not paying twice the price:)
http://hardyrifleengineering.co.nz/s...ppressors.html


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Double post :(

That blaser is getting heavier by the minute :thumbsup:

last time I looked you could buy the SL7 for around 500-550 NZD from Reloaders , thats with out the borelock mech etc , just the straight can , thats if you wanted to do it a bit cheaper.
When you look at the pressure & the amount of gasses you are dealing with , when you run a suppressor on a magnum rifle , I can see that unless you use some metal thats is strong & resists gas cutting , your can will NOT last long .
So when running a 300WM & up I want something MORE than high grade Aluminium , either steel , SS or Ti .
I have a SL7 and its a good solid can , rated for 300WM in 30 cal , and 338LM in 338 cal .

The Alloy can made by AI for the 338LM , only lasts for a few hundred rds before its toast from what I hear from UK users .

I haven't read this entire thread, so i apologise if this has already been discussed, if you are looking at a remington surrendo , i would highly recommend looking the new Sako A7 roughtec. They are a A7 action, with a longer, fully fluted factory barrel, with their own bell and carlson like stock. Have heard they shoot exceptionally well and are not too heavy either. As for brake vs suppressor, suppressor all the way

I have my non magnum rifles supressed. Magnums have brakes. Had suppressed mag and got sick of dragging big suppressor around and it getting hot so quickly. For 0-600 a short suppressed 284 would work for you, I would consider a 300 more of a 400-1k rifle and set it up for those purposes more specifically. This is me though and everyone does things differently. Really what I'm attempting to provide you is an excuse to buy two rifle and set them up very differently rather than being stuck with the one...

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Originally Posted by mcche171

I haven't read this entire thread, so i apologise if this has already been discussed, if you are looking at a remington surrendo , i would highly recommend looking the new Sako A7 roughtec. They are a A7 action, with a longer, fully fluted factory barrel, with their own bell and carlson like stock. Have heard they shoot exceptionally well and are not too heavy either. As for brake vs suppressor, suppressor all the way

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Thanks very much, will have a look now

For ChrisF: I have not heard of many failures of the mag suppressors from dpt with a 300win mag so far.
But as you say it is your choice to go with other materials.

For distant stalker: usually it should not take you more than one or two rounds to kill a deer,we can't really call that overheating a suppressor ,can we? :-) ( punt intended)