Thread: 300blk vs 6.5 grendel with short barrels

Originally Posted by gimp

https://forum.snipershide.com/thread...endel.6453095/


People claiming ~2300 or more with 123 factory ammo from 11.5-12.5 AR barrels

Yeah, I forgot to mention factory Hornady ammo was loaded hotter than my handloads.
Too hot in fact, the factory 123gn SSTs had the projectile actually into my rifling and with big extractor marks on fires cases.

Why look at Howa, Remington or Ruger when you could have one of these in 300 BLK, Kimber Adirondack 300BLK...nice, light and short.

https://www.kimberamerica.com/adirondack

The Grendel only needs 14.5" of barrel to get its maximum velocity from a 123gr bullet. Use BM 8208 and it can get you 2500fps no drama.
I load mine to 2450fps and have shot it to 500m with great accuracy. It holds about the same energy as a 100gr .243 win at that range.

Personally I wouldnt go any shorter than that with the Grendel. You mention you want the suppressor to come all the way back to the stock,
most popular over barrel suppressors are 110 to 120mm rearward of the threads shoulder so 14-15" barrels achieve this in most stocks.

This is my 14.5" barrelled Grendel in a std stock and a chassis











If you intend to go as short as 11-12" you will have to use a muzzle can instead which will give you the same over all length when fitted as a 14-15" barrel fitted with an overbarrel suppressor.
for this reason alone you are better to keep with the 14-15" which will give you more velocity from any cartridge you decide on without effecting your over all suppressed length.

As an example heres my 7.62x39 15.5" barrel fitted with a compact hardy overbarrel suppressor next to a 13" long .22 Grendel barrel fitted wit a DPT can with the std 5 baffles. They are the same OAL when fitted to the rifle.

The howa 300BLK is a ‘heavy barrel’ but because of that larger bore diameter it comes in at the same weight of the 223 mini lightweight.

So if you shorten it it will be pretty compact

Originally Posted by Wingman

The Grendel only needs 14.5" of barrel to get its maximum velocity from a 123gr bullet. Use BM 8208 and it can get you 2500fps no drama.
I load mine to 2450fps and have shot it to 500m with great accuracy. It holds about the same energy as a 100gr .243 win at that range.

Personally I wouldnt go any shorter than that with the Grendel. You mention you want the suppressor to come all the way back to the stock,
most popular over barrel suppressors are 110 to 120mm rearward of the threads shoulder so 14-15" barrels achieve this in most stocks.

This is my 14.5" barrelled Grendel in a std stock and a chassis











If you intend to go as short as 11-12" you will have to use a muzzle can instead which will give you the same over all length when fitted as a 14-15" barrel fitted with an overbarrel suppressor.
for this reason alone you are better to keep with the 14-15" which will give you more velocity from any cartridge you decide on without effecting your over all suppressed length.

As an example heres my 7.62x39 15.5" barrel fitted with a compact hardy overbarrel suppressor next to a 13" long .22 Grendel barrel fitted wit a DPT can with the std 5 baffles. They are the same OAL when fitted to the rifle.

Attachment 136395

Attachment 136396

That CZ chassis is so rad

Originally Posted by gimp

That CZ chassis is so rad

Cheers mate... I made another one for a Remington 788 in .30BR for a mate too

Originally Posted by Bushwalker

Why look at Howa, Remington or Ruger when you could have one of these in 300 BLK, Kimber Adirondack 300BLK...nice, light and short.

https://www.kimberamerica.com/adirondack

I rebarreled a 223 montana to get something similar to the adarondack 300blk
they are great and crazy light mine has a 12.5inch Trueflight barrel
Iv had to lighten the trigger a heap as i noticed that with the trigger squeeze it was pulling me off target
when i want more weight i swap the oceania defence alpine supp for a DPT with a crazy amount of baffles added to it
quiets it down really nicely
the internal magazine is a bit more of a chore in 300blk as im using it all the time almost every day, it never annoys me with my 243 montanas
Id really like it to be mag fed but there isnt a simple solution for that

the ruger american 300blk is what my mate runs and it has the advantage of ar15 mags, shoots well ect they are a good cheep option

Originally Posted by Wingman

Cheers mate... I made another one for a Remington 788 in .30BR for a mate too

How many hours in one of those?

Originally Posted by Wingman

Cheers mate... I made another one for a Remington 788 in .30BR for a mate too

AHHH if only I had a mill, and a lathe for that matter.

Originally Posted by berg243

@Wingman do you have a weight for the cz in the chassis ready to go. just looking at different options as no one seems to know if the xcel lite chassis will ever get to NZ.

All complete with scope and suppressor, weighs just under 3kg/6.8lbs , but the trueflite barrel is a heavy little bugger, I really need to whip it off and get it deep fluted to lighten it up even more.

Originally Posted by gimp

How many hours in one of those?

Hard to say as I just tick away at them when I get a couple of hours spare in the evenings. If I had a good crack at one Id say about 25-30 hours from billet to duracoat.
Most of the time is in the machine set up.
The .30BR took a bit longer because I rebarreled it from .22-250 Rem and had to mod the trigger to work in the chassis. I photographed the whole process but havent had time to write up a build thread. Ill see if the owner can share some more pics etc in a new thread.

Originally Posted by 300_BLK

Unless you are running leighigh or subx bullets the subs i used on animals were not great. You need to head shoot with heavy match bullets and have the rifle zeroed for those bullets, it is ballistically a 45 ACP.

With supers I was shooting goats at 450m and dropped heaps under 200m. The 110 vmax performs like traditional hunting bullet at BLK velocities.

I'm seriously considering another one based on a Howa mini with a DPT and chopping the barrel to minimum legal, i would run supers for hunting and subs for the kids plinking. I despise the MDT chassis as they are cold in the hand and have no fore end to grip, just my 2c.

Here is my data.

FACTORY AMMUNITION
LOAD BULLET WEIGHT (GR) AVERAGE VELOCITY (FPS) AVERAGE GROUP (MM)
REMINGTON OTM 220 1007 14
KATIPO 110 2257 23
HORNADY A-MAX 208 917 20
HORNADY V-MAX 110 2246 33
HANDLOADS Lilgun powder
PROJECTILE CHARGE (GR) AVERAGE VELOCITY (FPS) AVERAGE GROUP (MM)
CAST 186 GR 8 1086 50
CAST 186 GR 15 1775 32
HORNADY 110 GR V-MAX 19 2208 27
HORNADY 110 GR V-MAX 19.5 2249 35
HORNADY 110 GR V-MAX 20 2288 25

Attachment 136388

That upper was sold on here and I got to play with it (2018) from the third owner, pretty cool bit of kit had a custom gas length with a grub screw from memory with a fancy trueflite barrel and perfectly fitting gunworks suppressor?

It sure was nice to shoot, very accurate.

With the MDT LSS specifically you can put something like a AFG Mlok grip on them if you want a grip and use a rubber pistol grip, but yeah each to their own, the body is still ali (cold).

Originally Posted by Bill999

If howa made a SS 300blk with a standard weight or light weight barrel in the same twist rate as their porky blued ones id definitely have one
its just not worth turning down the barrel or dealing with a blued rifle
they just need a good stock and the floorplate that seems to be on the way

But if you are shortening it back to 10 - 12" it will be fairly light though won't it? and possibly a little more accurate if it is a heavy barrel?

Also see @300_BLK comments on the heavy barrel weighing the same as the lightweight.

RE: non stainless - if you got the barrel cerakoted which wouldn't cost too much should be sweet as long as you clean it ?

Originally Posted by Wingman

Hard to say as I just tick away at them when I get a couple of hours spare in the evenings. If I had a good crack at one Id say about 25-30 hours from billet to duracoat.
Most of the time is in the machine set up.
The .30BR took a bit longer because I rebarreled it from .22-250 Rem and had to mod the trigger to work in the chassis. I photographed the whole process but havent had time to write up a build thread. Ill see if the owner can share some more pics etc in a new thread.

Do you sell them?

Yeah that's what we all want to know hey