Thread: Advice on a precision F class set up

So I've been looking at what I can do for an F class build but am limited toga $6500 budget for everything. I've already made my mind up on the optics set up as below due to past experience with similar Vortex optics.

Gen 2 Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50 FFP EBR-2C MOA ($2000 on sale)
Vortex Precision Matched rings ($350)
Vortex Lo Pro bubble level ($100)
Vortex Defender caps ($50)

= $2500

But the rifle I just can't decide on as the optics I will be paying for with my own cash and the rifle will be through Q Mastercard (12 months interest free at H&F currently) the options I saw at H&F were

Ruger precision rifle 20/24" .308 $2699 - $2799
Tikka T3x Tac A1 24" .308 (early next year) $3799?
Tikka T3x Tac A1 20" .308 (available now) $3499
(GC has a single Tikka with 24" for $3799)
Bergara B14 BMP 24" .308 $2399
Bergara B14 HMR 24" .308 $1699
(Bergaras being enhanced Rem 700s)

Now of course the Tikka is on the very edge of the budget and leaves little room for Ammo (club has good pricing anyway) and normally I would consider the price difference between the Tikka and Ruger because there's probably only about a 10% difference between them performance wise, but reports on the Tikka have it as 1/4 - 1/3 MOA easily and the Ruger as a 1/2 - 2/3 MOA average at 100 yards... and at the 1000 Mark that difference is the difference between a hit and a miss.

The Bergaras on the other hand are reported to be very good for their price range (with the BMP being in a full chassis) but not quite on the level of the Tikka unless extensive handled work is done, of which I don't have the equipment for currently unless I buy the dies and use a family members press.

Getting the cheapest option also leaves me open to buying another pistol (FNX 45 range toy?)

Cheers
Macca

Gidday Macca - interesting project. I had one of the Gen 1 Ruger PR's for a couple of years and shot a little bit of F Class. Mine came as a 243, and shot Ok in my hands, but not in F class territory. I happened to have a lightweight Krieger 6.5 barrel that wasn't doing anything so got that fitted and chambered in 6.5 Creedmore. In that configuration it shot very well for me, and on one glorious day I was able to shoot several 500 yard groups in a row that made onlookers very envious, but annoyingly I could usually shoot better scores with a Omark 223, albeit one put together by the Collings guys (supposedly Din but who would know).

For shooting F class the Rugers need some sort of single shot adapter made up (I made my own from hardwood) but most importantly, the 60 degree bolt lift on a rifle with the Rugers level of finish is to say the least, stiff. I found it very off-putting and for that reason sold it.

The other rifles you mention, if you just want to compete against yourself in F Class they'll do the job. If you want to shoot competitive scores you'll need a better rifle than any of them unless you are lucky enough to strike a "plum" out of the box. Heaps of people will tell you a Tikka will do it (and probably be offended at the mere hint they will not), but you don't see many of them featuring at the top of the clubs results sheets.

Try @ebf.
He could probably help you more than me.
I'm shooting F/TR (for fun - so far), with an Sportco/Omark action, Neilsen adaptor, '79 Palma stock (but looking at another rifle built by Scott Traill, in a custom wood stock), bedded action, 13" twist medium Palma, I think, S/S barrel - 27 1/2" long from front of adaptor to muzzle, threaded M18 x 1 (before rules changed), with thread protector, older Nighteater 6-24 x 56, 30mm rings, 20MOA Rem 700 LA rail adapted.
This old girl is handicapped by it's owner, reading wind isn't my strong suit at the moment.

Originally Posted by Tentman

Gidday Macca - interesting project. I had one of the Gen 1 Ruger PR's for a couple of years and shot a little bit of F Class. Mine came as a 243, and shot Ok in my hands, but not in F class territory. I happened to have a lightweight Krieger 6.5 barrel that wasn't doing anything so got that fitted and chambered in 6.5 Creedmore. In that configuration it shot very well for me, and on one glorious day I was able to shoot several 500 yard groups in a row that made onlookers very envious, but annoyingly I could usually shoot better scores with a Omark 223, albeit one put together by the Collings guys (supposedly Din but who would know).

For shooting F class the Rugers need some sort of single shot adapter made up (I made my own from hardwood) but most importantly, the 60 degree bolt lift on a rifle with the Rugers level of finish is to say the least, stiff. I found it very off-putting and for that reason sold it.

The other rifles you mention, if you just want to compete against yourself in F Class they'll do the job. If you want to shoot competitive scores you'll need a better rifle than any of them unless you are lucky enough to strike a "plum" out of the box. Heaps of people will tell you a Tikka will do it (and probably be offended at the mere hint they will not), but you don't see many of them featuring at the top of the clubs results sheets.

Cheers for the reply

I have read/heard a fair bit of people not being satisfied with the fit and finish of the Ruger, and there's more than a few lemons getting pumped out. I'm aware that the listed options aren't really "true" F class rifles for the classes shot here, but being limited to H&F has me listing Pre built options as if I bought a basic 700/savage to strip the barrel for a precision one/new bolt/full chassis then it would be as expensive as the Tikka anyway.

Another limiting factor is I would still like to be able to use the rifle to haul around a farm for some rabbit/goat shooting or perhaps a deer, so overall weight and portability is of a slight concern (I'm no pansy though)

Also while I'm of the buy once cry once mentality (much to the missus hate) I am thinking the Tikka is pushing it a little much to keep my manhood intact.

I'm well on the wrong side of 50 and carried my RPR up to 1800 metres Tahr hunting - it only weighted 14 lbs scoped, "bipoded" and with 5 rounds in the mag - nothing to it!

I think if it were my money I'd buy a used Tikka varmint with proven accuracy and restock it with something I liked that fitted rather than a new off the shelf one. I very much doubt that the "target" or varmint versions of the Tikka's are selected or tuned in any way, hence they are unlikely to be any more or less accurate that any given T3 variation - JMHO.

Hello Macca,
If you are serious about an F class rifle I suggest you contact these people rather than your H&F store.Barnards Custom Riflesor http://www.truefliteriflebarrels.co....get-stocks.asp.
A Barnard action is I think around $1800, and a fitted Trueflite ultramatch around $950. The Trueflite stocks are about $1500, I believe. The Mod 07 Barnard rifle is the rifle used by one chap who is consistently on top of the dung heap for FTR.
You are in Auckland, so get along to Clevedon, Akarana City, or Franklin Rifle club, and join in, ask questions. There is no need to re-invent the wheel when there are so many willing and experienced types in these clubs, who will help you get started. Here's how to get in touchMember Clubs » National Rifle Association of New Zealand

I was going to say a Tikka varmint, super varmint and then upgrade the stock if need be(MDT,KRG,XLR or dpt).

Originally Posted by JWB

Hello Macca,
If you are serious about an F class rifle I suggest you contact these people rather than your H&F store.Barnards Custom Riflesor http://www.truefliteriflebarrels.co....get-stocks.asp.
A Barnard action is I think around $1800, and a fitted Trueflite ultramatch around $950. The Trueflite stocks are about $1500, I believe. The Mod 07 Barnard rifle is the rifle used by one chap who is consistently on top of the dung heap for FTR.
You are in Auckland, so get along to Clevedon, Akarana City, or Franklin Rifle club, and join in, ask questions. There is no need to re-invent the wheel when there are so many willing and experienced types in these clubs, who will help you get started. Here's how to get in touchMember Clubs » National Rifle Association of New Zealand

Now located in Palmerston North so I need to update that (Cheltenham club). Thanks for the input with the actions and barrels, of which I did look at previously but am limited to H&F or similar due to $4000 of my budget being restricted to Q card and $2500 cash. I'm really looking for something that will get me in the door and be able to be competitive while still having a rifle I can use elsewhere. Of which a 30" barrel and 8kg rifle will be limiting. Being local options I will most likely use them in future when funds free up and I want to dive deeper into the sport.

Originally Posted by striker

I was going to say a Tikka varmint, super varmint and then upgrade the stock if need be(MDT,KRG,XLR or dpt).

I had looked at getting a T3x super varmint in a KRG Xray stock or something, but that puts it in the same ballpark as the Tac A1 which is better chassis as far as I'm aware?

Havent had a look at a tac a1 stock yet but the krg and dpt were very good. I should have said on point the super varmints are 2k at guncity. Get a price match at hf and upgrade the stock to a chassis later if you need too. There is nz carbon stocks to consider as well but the super vamint stock althought not perfect is usable as is. Or another option down the track could be grs bolthorn or laminate. Option options options

308 you might as well do ftr.
If you want an advantage in ballistics from h&f you could get something like a sendero. Or 5r.
But like was mentioned I would go Barnard with the calibre of your choice. I did an s action in a Remington stock and criterion barrel. About $2500 plus trigger $500. And am really happy.

Originally Posted by striker

Havent had a look at a tac a1 stock yet but the krg and dpt were very good. I should have said on point the super varmints are 2k at guncity. Get a price match at hf and upgrade the stock to a chassis later if you need too. There is nz carbon stocks to consider as well but the super vamint stock althought not perfect is usable as is. Or another option down the track could be grs bolthorn or laminate. Option options options

Website says the only calibre left for the super varmint is 300 win mag unfortunately. And I think H&F price for them was like $2300 so they wouldn't be able to match the $1899 price point.

But then the question is if the super varmint in a chassis is better than the Ruger Precision Rifle.

Originally Posted by striker

Havent had a look at a tac a1 stock yet but the krg and dpt were very good. I should have said on point the super varmints are 2k at guncity. Get a price match at hf and upgrade the stock to a chassis later if you need too. There is nz carbon stocks to consider as well but the super vamint stock althought not perfect is usable as is. Or another option down the track could be grs bolthorn or laminate. Option options options

I wonder what kind of price they could do if they removed the stock and just gave me the action and barrel etc. Might bring the price down to $1500 since I'll be putting it in a Chassis anyway? I'd also be needing a 20 MOA rail so the included one would be of no use too.

I wouldn't be stuck on that scope either. Most people have more than 25 power.
Heaps of guys are using sightron and you could probably save $400.

Oh don't forget the Savage range of rifles, they do some good f class and br rifles in good calibres too. I'd say h&f could get them, or another store with q card.