Printable View
Gidday - I've been thinking about getting a barrel done to reduce weight (so it will be as deep as safely possible).
Overseas "interweb" advice says that the barrel needs to be stress relieved after fluting or it'll go to "hell in a handcart".
So - who here has had a button rifled barrel fluted on an existing rifle and just gone on shooting with no loss if accuracy??
I suppose a supplementary question might be "does anyone in NZ offer fluting with a post stress relief treatment"??
Cheers
Foster
I had an xbolt done in 7mm rem mag after the fact, made no difference to accuracy whatsoever. Cant say I noticed a weight difference either Haha. Did look cool though..
Edit: Also got my tikka 284 done once it had been rechambered in 284. That also didnt effect accuracy.
I would like to know too haven't heard this before and am looking at getting a Tikka fluted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentman
Iv got flutted rifles but both factory flutted. But my views on getting one flutted after the fact is gunwords in Christchurch offer flutting services and for them to offer the service they must back the process and the result their reputation is excellent id go for itQuote:
Originally Posted by 308mate
One thing a warranty gunsmith told me, once you flute anything the manufacturers warranty goes out the door.
I've got my Contender 30-30 barrel and CZ527 223 fluted pretty aggressively, just carried on shooting afterwards. 30-30 barrel is 16.9" and 223 is around 12" so they're fairly short, not seen any issues as a result. But they're not long range shooters.
I saved 144gm on a Rem Model 7 7saum barrel with deep fluting.
@Friwi at dpt fluted my .338 bartlien. Shot very well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
From the little I read up on the subject, it is most important to ensure the bore is central to the barrel along its whole length the barrel walls must be equally thick on every radius at any given point.
to avoid flutes of different depths. That is what causes variable distortion as the barrel heats, (and cools, for that matter) causing the rifle to shoot increasingly larger groups.
I’ve looked down a barrel that was fluted so deep that the bore was distorted.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Barrel fluting really does not save you a lot of weight. Think 100-200 grams...
You could easily save that much weight by going to a lighter scope, with ZERO impact on harmonics...
If you do decide to flute the barrel, shoot your existing load to check what effect it had on harmonics/accuracy, and be prepared to re-do load-dev in case the harmonic have changed.
Barrel diameter is a bigger determinant on weight. Thinning the barrel profile is more effective.
If you're that worried about weight, I hope you're cutting the handle off your toothbrush and kicking the mud out of your boots every 20 yards :thumbsup:
Sheez - ya could'a just cut straight to the chase and talk about the extra 5 kgs above my belt!! But I bet you're not nearly 60, the fight gets a lot harder you know (and I know, ask anyone 6' tall who has tried to row "lightweight" as a young man)Quote:
Originally Posted by McNotty
@ebf
Yeah if you are just fluting the barrel it is not a huge difference in weight. But if you are lightening a few things like I will be doing e.g - carbon stock 130 - 200+ grams lighter depending on model, barrel fluting is 150 - 200 grams lighter, fluting the bolt at 80 - 90 grams and then lighten the action by removing a section of the top of the over the bolt ~ 70 - 100 grams.
At the end of all of those mods you're potentially almost at a half kilogram lighter..
@308mate
I guess it boils down to if you want a light rifle, or reduce your total carry weight by 500g
Cutting that out of the contents of a typical tramping pack is a piece of piss, and probably quite cheap.
Compared to carbon stock, barrel, bolt and action fluting.. How much money are we looking at ? 1.5 to 2 K ?
Many years ago I did a bit of research into weight saving compared to cost for tramping equipment. The large/heavy items such as the pack itself, sleeping bags etc is where you get the most bang for buck.
When I looked at reducing my rifle weight, the big ticket item weight wise for me was barrel length and profile. By cutting the barrel to 14 inches and pencil profile, I saved significantly more weight than fluting would have given me. It does have limitations though, but suits my primary type of hunting, so works for me.
Yeah for me the weight of a rifle is in it's own category from overall weight as you hold it rather than have it as pack weight on your back, I am doing a shorter barrel 6.5 build and want it light.Quote:
Originally Posted by ebf
Barrel fluting is $300 maybe less as mine will be a shorter barrel.
Bolt Fluting is $138
Receiver roof removal $92
(Gunworks prices)
So around $530 for all the lightening work.
I got my carbon Southfort stock on here for $600, I think the carbon stock cost is kind of a moot point as a lot of people upgrade to carbon stocks for rigidity alone not just weight reduction. Also I will be able to sell the stock the Tikka came with for at least $100 brand new.
You wear boots? Wayyyy to heavy. Barefeet for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by McNotty
:thumbsup:
Have you priced a kimber? 6.5 creedmore 4pounds 8ounch.
Not to much call for tikka stocks unfortunatelyQuote:
Originally Posted by 308mate
*Sheez - ya could'a just cut straight to the chase and talk about the extra 5 kgs above my belt!! But I bet you're not nearly 60, the fight gets a lot harder you know (and I know, ask anyone 6' tall who has tried to row "lightweight" as a young man)
Just pulling your leg man, no I'm not nearly 60 but do have that extra 5kg above the belt that never used to be there haha
I have seen them sell on here pretty easy if they are in new condition. This the last 'as new one' I saw that went for $120.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelton
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....3-larue-57866/
I knew you were jesting, notwithstanding your point is very valid . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by McNotty
Quote:
Originally Posted by 308mate
Intresting iv got a brandnew one stickers and all up for $65 that iv not a bite on which i wasnt overly surprised about because it seems an odd thing to buy
As the old boys used to say. You must have looked like a drovers dog, all balls and ribs. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentman
Or "gum diggers dog"Quote:
Originally Posted by Got-ya
My grandfather was 'Snow' Harker, one of the last drovers bringing in stock to the Tuakau sale so for me it will always be drovers dog.
If you flute your barrel, tell your mates next to you so they can stand back, that way they dont get hurt when it shits itself.
Factory fluting = ok.
You've seen a non factory fluted barrel shit itself? Like a Gunworks one?Quote:
Originally Posted by grunzter
@grunzter what did you see happen? I haven't heard it was dangerous before.
I have one fluted rifle. It’s a light Palma 26” barrel on a .300 Win Mag, which I had fluted after it was built. It wasn’t about weight saving; rather improving the balance of the rifle and it made a real difference. From memory I paid US$100 for the work at longriflesinc. It didn’t make any difference at all to the rifle’s accuracy.
My two newer rifles aren’t fluted as I personally think it’s an expensive way of decreasing weight or improving balance. I now prefer to use a lighter contour or a shorter barrel instead, although I do like the look of a fluted barrel.
Yes, nice theory, but if they get that hot the damage is already done to the throat.
I wouldn’t do that to my rifles personally, but we’re all different.
Fluting may increase the surface area, but it also decreases the amount of material to dissipate the heat through, effectively reducing the size of the heat sink. That’s what I reckon anyway.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
@308mate, no first hand experience, but heard the same from two good gunsmiths here in NZ.
Being an engineer who understands pressure design also makes me weary of doing such things to a barrel.
It cools down faster, but it warms up faster as well.
Early Sako 75 finnlight did have a few factory fluted barrels blowing up at the turn of the century. That happened when beretta had become in charge and the stainless steel used by Sako was an Italian source and no longer their original supplier. Also some stainless do not react well to stress in very cold environment.