Thread: bedding question

did some bedding on the Parker Hale project a few weeks back.
The bedding material was a little runny and got under the bottom of the recoil lug.
Had some tape on the front so have clearance there but it is bedded/touching the sides, back and bottom.
wasn't that concerned as it bedded on the flat spot behind and obviously the receiver ring and part of the barrel to the front, but I've read on here that the tikkas seem to hate the bottom of the lug touching and that got me thinking
Mauser type action the same? If so I'll take it out
Is it a big deal or perfectly acceptable?

Guess youd have to shoot ir and see

There’s every chance that it will be fine. However be aware that some time in the future it is possible for the lug to ‘shave’ off a piece of bedding material, which then lodges itself under the lug and ruins the bedding tolerances. May happen, may not. Just something to bear in mind

Originally Posted by northdude

Guess youd have to shoot ir and see

I suppose, but as this is a long term cobble up of bits, i have no benchmark to go from. Different pre loved barrel for a start.
Not necessarily a fan of using a bunch of ammo to find something actually wrong
Got to get the trigger a little better although i am waiting to hear back from a guy who may have a better one than the old 2 stage i am mucking with.
It also has what i suspect is a husqvarna bold that i got earlier in the year so sear and cocking piece are not matched so to speak. @Husky1600 you dont have anything in the box of goodies that might work?
More of a question for a beginner who has done bugger all bedding jobs

The most important thing to do to test your bedding is the 1 o’clock test. That will make sure there is no stress in the bedding. If there is, your best off doing the job again until it’s perfect. Removes bedding as a variable.

Originally Posted by Hunter_Nick

The most important thing to do to test your bedding is the 1 o’clock test. That will make sure there is no stress in the bedding. If there is, your best off doing the job again until it’s perfect. Removes bedding as a variable.

What's the one o'clock test?

Bedding the entire lug is normal procedure but I always file a nice chamfer all round the bottom of the lug to prevent shaving when the action is removed and replaced. Any rubbish in the mortice will completely negate the good effect of bedding.

Originally Posted by Steve123

What's the one o'clock test?

1. Assemble rifle without magazine spring fitted (for internal box mags)
2. Hold the rifle vertically with the recoil pad on the bench, and the barrel pointing to 1 o’clock
3. Undo the front action screw (while the rifle is held in the 1 o’clock position) and see if the barrel moves in relation to the forend when the screw is tightened and loosened.

Any movement of the barrel indicates stress in the bedding. It is possible to bend either the action or the stock very slightly if too much force was used to hold the action and stock together when the bedding was curing. Yes it’s possible, done it myself.....

0.002” barrel movement at the forend tip is acceptable. Any more and I would re-do the job. It can be measured with a DTI, but 0.002” should be detectable with your finger. If you can feel movement it’s probably no good, but if you can’t then crack on!

Originally Posted by Hunter_Nick

1. Assemble rifle without magazine spring fitted (for internal box mags)
2. Hold the rifle vertically with the recoil pad on the bench, and the barrel pointing to 1 o’clock
3. Undo the front action screw (while the rifle is held in the 1 o’clock position) and see if the barrel moves in relation to the forend when the screw is tightened and loosened.

Any movement of the barrel indicates stress in the bedding. It is possible to bend either the action or the stock very slightly if too much force was used to hold the action and stock together when the bedding was curing. Yes it’s possible, done it myself.....

0.002” barrel movement at the forend tip is acceptable. Any more and I would re-do the job. It can be measured with a DTI, but 0.002” should be detectable with your finger. If you can feel movement it’s probably no good, but if you can’t then crack on!

Cheers, I bedded a JW103 over lockdown. It didn't seem to make a difference to how it shot though. I'll try that test on it.

In my experience a bedding job can make a poor shooting rifle shoot a lot better, but it seldom makes an accurate rifle a lot more accurate

@gundoc cheers just what i was after. I even started to have a rush of blood to the head and was considering putting a piece of wood just in front of the rear action screw to give it a bit more support but i suppose the rear screw collar/pillar does that. @Hunter_Nick i have a 25-303 P14 that shot crap for the previous owner and amongst other things i have done to it, i found it does that-or is it the other way around?
Think if you let the rear screw go the barrel drops? Bloody sight more than 2 thou', more like millimeters so really doing it no favours
havent got around to fixing it and trying it out but i did get given 5 rounds to try it with when i do.

Originally Posted by csmiffy

I suppose, but as this is a long term cobble up of bits, i have no benchmark to go from. Different pre loved barrel for a start.
Not necessarily a fan of using a bunch of ammo to find something actually wrong
Got to get the trigger a little better although i am waiting to hear back from a guy who may have a better one than the old 2 stage i am mucking with.
It also has what i suspect is a husqvarna bold that i got earlier in the year so sear and cocking piece are not matched so to speak. @Husky1600 you dont have anything in the box of goodies that might work?
More of a question for a beginner who has done bugger all bedding jobs

Sorry Craig, my box of goodies is practically bare. But it shouldn't be too difficult to ensure the ones you have are both compatible.

In addition to gundoc’s great advice, a very light draft angle on the sides and a few thou off the bottom will help with clearance and prevent chipping of the bedding when installing the action.

@Husky1600 Everything works so to speak but the trigger does move the cocking piece back as it goes to the second stage and could do with a better polish.
Going to to some other quite reversible things to help with the trigger but not considering removing the first stage at all. need to see how much engagement it has. it might be a lot and can be brought back a little. Havent played with that yet
If this other trigger is the biz, it will be a moot point

Originally Posted by csmiffy

did some bedding on the Parker Hale project a few weeks back.
The bedding material was a little runny and got under the bottom of the recoil lug.
Had some tape on the front so have clearance there but it is bedded/touching the sides, back and bottom.
wasn't that concerned as it bedded on the flat spot behind and obviously the receiver ring and part of the barrel to the front, but I've read on here that the tikkas seem to hate the bottom of the lug touching and that got me thinking
Mauser type action the same? If so I'll take it out
Is it a big deal or perfectly acceptable?

The Mauser action recoil lug should not have compound under it the magazine acts as a pillar and the cross bolt if the stock has one is the bedding area
you only need to bed behind the cross bolt and the sides of the action the rear was originally fitted with a steel pillar.