Thread: Bedding Tikka T3 varmint in Boyd's laminate stock.... HELP please!!!!

Do I need to get the recoil lug out of the Boyd's stock or can I bed the action with it in the stock? It's pressed into the wood and I can't get it out.
This is my first bedding job so any help would be appreciated, I'm using nathan fosters bedding compound and have watched his YouTube directions too, but any tikka specific hints and tips won't go astray!
Cheers

I'm pretty sure there is a good thread on here regarding bedding a Tikka action.
I can't be of much help, but I too had such questions recently, and found a few threads on here quite handy, ask well as asking Google.

When I bed a Tikka I put 3 layers of masking tape on the top of the recoil lug and glue the recoil lug to the action using nail polish. Then bed everything in one go. I do have the hole for the recoil lug oversized so the lug fits in easily. You won't get the lug out easily this way though. If the lug is already stuck in place I would put the masking tape on the lug then bed the action in. The reason for the masking tape is so the lug is not pushing hard up on the action, it is bit like making the base of a Rem 700 recoil lug.

just bed the recoil lug into the stock.
greg

Cool guys, yeah it's a Boyd stock and already has a steel recoil lug pressed tight into the laminated stock, I can't get it out and was wondering how to bed around it???

you should take out some material to leave room for the bedding compound to fit into the stock. you could drill out the wood surrounding the lug then fill with bedding compound reinsert the lug as you bed.
this is an image of a ruger that i bedded you see the "keyed" area where i have drilled holes all thru the wood to allow room for the bedding compound to fit. also it acts to secure the bedding compound to the wood.

after, before cleaning up the edges etc.

greg

Thanks Greg, that helps, I will have a go tonight :-)

What part of the country are you rob ? I have just done this stock , they are not a five minute job , but I can send you some pics and so do's and donts , I used Nathan's compound as well , seems to work really well and he is a super helpfull dude .
You will have to get the recoil lug out as Stug said , you just have to be a little persuasive , tape it and some vice grips work well , if you do end up with a couple of marks very light rub on some fine wet one dry on some glass .
You will as Stug said need to open up the recoil recess .
I made some aluminium pillars and bedded in these to , before you start , check your trigger guard lines up , mine was a shocka the inletting from boyds was a bit average to be honest.i had to mod the trigger guard inlet as the receiver bolts did not line up .
If you pm your email can give you some more detailed instructions and pics , I'm no expert on bedding , being an engine reconditioner probably a little over fussy lol ,,but there is a bit more work getting the t3 right, but easy enough to do . If you pm your email addy will get some better pics for ya , got a few ,,,,as I was at some stage going to do a basic how to thread .

Ill grab your email and send some better pics

Mate that would be awesome, robh500@yahoo.co.nz, any chance I can call you? My number is 0274615350, cheers

Thanks bloody heaps to everyone for all the help, pulled it out of the stock today and cleaned it up, MINT results, I'm stoked!!!

Awesome mate , she's a bit of a nervous time when ya go to crack it outta the stock , wicked it all came together

Now gotta get around to shooting it!

I know this thread is starting to get old now.

Edited as I actually found the answer to my question but I have another.
With other rifles where the recoil lug is on the action you only want the surface that is taking the recoil to be in contact with the bedding.
But as the Tikkas one stays in the stock I assume this isn't a problem, as there is no real reason to take it out?

I see mentioned here and another thread that you should put tape on top of the recoil lug, as to not have this point contacting. But on other forums I've read where they have used super glue to hold the recoil lug to the action, so after the bedding job it will contact.
What is the correct way? If its to have no contact what is the reason for it? Just to reduce any chance of there being an uneven pressure point (in relation to the bedding) from the recoil lug?

tape is used to "relieve" the front of the recoil lug on a traditional action, so it is easy to get in and out of the stock for cleaning etc. as without it you can end up with a "glue in"
you wont have this problem so forget tape.
greg