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Looking at shooting the Montana off spartan bipod and sighting in left hand on top of scope seemed to work well.
Any tips/tricks for shooting ultra lights, esp off a bipod? Does a break/suppressor help by reducing muzzle jump (setting aside recoil).
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Firm grip on the fore end, is my go to. But I’d same for ultralight or standard weight stocks, so maybe just me. Brake or suppressor will help with muzzle jump, but brake design (radial vs side ported) may also give better or lesser jump benefit. Nice straight comb on the Montana stock which should direct recoil straight back into shoulder rather then encouraging any upwards deflection.
There will be plenty of opinions, which means there’s no absolutely one right answer. One opinion is effectively stated by ‘The Real Gunsmith’ on YouTube, titled ‘bench resting’ or somesuch. I also have a Montana 308, and if not planning to use it exclusively off a bipod I’ve found a firm hold on the forend is best at replicating field conditions. Yes you will be affected by pulse movement in your hand and won’t get benchrest precision but having a light rifle jumping around off a rest isn’t ideal either. The Montana stock configuration and the trigger are a magical combination for offhand shooting in my hands, not what you’d expect from an ultralight.
I don't plan on using a bipod on mine. Having a bipod, and all the other stuff hanging off it like we usually do kind of defeats the point of a light handy rifle.
I didn't buy a light gun so I can add more "stuff" to it.
Apart from suppressor I have gone back to low powered variable and shooting over a rest (my daypack for example)
What he said!Quote:
Originally Posted by mikee
The Real Gunsmith - https://youtu.be/6-Ds3YCJhWI
Nathan Foster's page (NZ) https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Kno...at+Forend.html
Some thoughts
Get the basics right, like the mentioned firm grip on forend and pressing the gun back into your shoulder, firing each shot off with as identical hold and grip as you can.
A suppressor / brake may or may not help the gun shoot more accurately, but it will change your point of impact. It all comes down to trying it out on the range. A break or suppressor helps more by softening recoil and thus reducing shooter flinch I suspect - so a pleasant gun ends up being a more "accurate" gun. Which is why .22LR is a great practice round.
The reduction in muzzle climb is not that helpful, at least for accuracy, as the main part of the muzzle climb that a suppressor / brake reduces is the climb that occurs AFTER the bullet has exited and the fast gases rocket out. Any added weight to the end of the barrel will of course reduce climb from any source.
Your big scope put on a higher mount along with a cheek riser pad may put the barrel more in line with your shoulder and so reduce climb... and maybe remind you of an AR you may once have owned.
This is exactly what I have done with mine. Bipods are a pita to shoot well with lightweight rifles anyway. Surprising how well I can shoot out to 400ish even just with a 6 powerQuote:
Originally Posted by mikee
I shoot my Carbon stocked Sako 270 WSM (approximately 3.5kg) off a Javlin and I load up the bipod with a good shoulder leaning into the butt and my trigger finger had gripping the pistol grip.
I don't touch the rifle with my off hand at all.
I can consistently shoot this rifle out to 600 yards on steel and have taken animals out to 409 yards
my rifle is braked however still not enough too maintain sight picture during recoil, this hasn't been an issue.
this is what works for me, I note a lot of others use 2 hands.
Keep shot strings slow and deliberate allowing time for the barrel to cool between shots. Pencil barrels heat up rapidly and start to disperse shots.
These aren't range rifles they are designed for one or two shots from a cold barrel at a time.
Def use two hands...
If you aren't going to suppress the rifle definitely go muzzle brake, your going to need hearing protection anyway.
Righto - I'll practice on the 400/600 gong. Daypack rest and spartan bipod (weighs almost nothing). I'm a fan of brakes so may just put a Ti one on the end of current barrel.
Lightweight and Premier Scopes seldom are in the same sentence.
Not so much a perfect hold
Trick is having the same hold everytime you shoot.
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This is an interesting thread , and I’ll add my uneducated two cents to it .
I believe that the rear of the rifle steers and effects it more than the front.
As long as the front rest is good and secure/firm then the rear support/rest is where your attention should be .
Bipods and loading them up is an interesting one , what your doing is getting repeatable shoulder pressure on the stock which is desirable.
With practice you can achieve repeatable shoulder pressure using your trigger hand to pull the stock into your shoulder.
I’ve only recently gone down the muzzle brake path ( Australia’s silly no suppressor laws have dictated that , my NZ rifle wears a DPT can ) .
I like the recoil reductions of a brake but man it’s loud , I’m still trying to find workable realistic hunting ear protection solution to that problem .
I don’t really know what I’m talking about , but I steer the rifle from the rear and don’t hold the forend if I can help it .
Noticed on the Dulys hunting show. There pre program visuals show one of the guys shooting with no apparent forehand hold. Except for bi-pod.
The rifle jumps quite a bit at the shot up and a bit sideways. Entering into scope eyebrow contact on a big caliber?
I shoot my braked 270wsm just like that, never been an issue I load up the bipod and keep a firm grip on the palm swell, never come close to being scoped yet and shoots extremely accurate and consistent.Quote:
Originally Posted by ghosts
I wrap my front arm with the sling most shots
Nothing fancy about my hold but I mostly shoot offhand or off my knees sitting
My montanas are all suppressed and it helps settle them right down and reduces recoil and makes them less jumpy
Mine are 243, 300blk so are pussycats to shoot suppressed recoil wise which makes shooting them well easy
@Tikka7mm08
Nice Ninety.:cool::thumbsup:
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You can’t beat the physics!
Attachment 132900
I had been shooting dozens of rabbits with 17 Ackley Hornet and became very lazy with how I held the rifle. Because of nearly zero recoil was having minimal misses
Then started shooting Sambar deer for pet food with a light tikka 308, head shots required, and had a few over the top misses. Problem was solved when I disciplined myself to hold the rifle a lot firmer with a good solid grip of the fore end. Seems the recoil was causing shots to fly just high or clip the top of the head
Took a young bloke with a very light rifle out a few time and he was have the same problem, as he was used to a heavy barrel 223, taught him to hold the rifle tighter and problem solved
I had a 7mmRM HSP I had zero'd at 100 yards...tack driver. Took it on a 1000y course with a Harris bipod and crossarm hold and found this changed the rifle to a 200y zero. Adjusted drop shot and the trainer called me in for a 4.5" 1000y group. How you shoot on the bench has to match how you shoot off it.
When I first shot my Tikka super light 7 rm it was also first time using a bipod , so as I'd seen in several videos I used the cross arm style. I had a lot of trouble controlling muzzle jump, Jesus it jumped all over the place. I tried holding the forend with my left hand and found it much better and have done so ever since.
It’s about consistency - if it behaves the same way each shot, then the shot will go the same place - recoil management wether by hand, free or hydraulics needs to be managed - its where it varies from position to position that you will have the variations - lighter Calibres and heavy rifles also ‘manage’ the recoil by weight, as do suppressors by weight and gas management etc
I’ve watched NZ Hunter - only can wish could tramp like they do - but also watched their rifle bounce a lot - slow mo is interesting, will try to record mine next time i shoot
I've battled back and forwards with bipods and have a spartan I'm going to perserve with as an option, otherwise harris.
One thing is with bipods I would'nt compare shooting off a bench. Get down on ground, dig legs in a bit and load it slightly. I like the caps off the legs, spikes.
Hand ontop of scope is ok technique. Put plenty down range, and when sight is coming back onto target after recoil I reckon technique is sound, whatever technique you use. If skewing off under recoil and not back to target technique and accuracy will be poor.
Skinny barrels not that good for plenty of range practice though.
Another thing to note that a lot of people don't think about is the rear sling swivel stud catching on the rear bag. This can/does contribute to muzzle jump and the odd unexplained flyer.
I always used to remove mine when group shooting or sighting in. But I have since changed to flush cups so is now a non issue.
