BLR Questions:

Hi Team,

Recently bought the 7mm08 off here and top bloke too and beautiful condition rig.

Trigger

Can anyone tell me please who is the go to in NZ for getting BLR triggers lightened and tuned?
It's not the end of the world but I reckon it would be a nice to have.

Bedding

Mine is a 2002 lightning I think: seems to shoot an inch with Fed 150's which is my go too anyway, but laddered the Winchester 140's over 3.5inch vertical
Hates the PPU.

Has a cheap ranger ballistic reticle scope on it ( seems ok, could that be an issue? ) That's coming off for sure, I just wanted to see what it liked.

Can you bed these bad boys? It doesn't have the barrel band like the 81.

Cheers,

i had one in 308, total tack driver until you shot it 5 times quick. but hell it was a hunting rifle and if you cant stop mr piggy with 5 rounds of 308 you need to be a faster runner than usain bolt
gundoc did the trigger, wasnt super light but very crisp and no creep.
i wouldnt bother bedding it, they shoot just fine until they get hot because of the skinny barrel

This might give you a few answers Shooting with Hobie
Yep the triggers are a bugger.
Had mine done and it really improved matters.
As for bedding Nathan Foster has mentioned doing a few so maybe check out his website.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gonetropo

i had one in 308, total tack driver until you shot it 5 times quick. but hell it was a hunting rifle and if you cant stop mr piggy with 5 rounds of 308 you need to be a faster runner than usain bolt
gundoc did the trigger, wasnt super light but very crisp and no creep.
i wouldnt bother bedding it, they shoot just fine until they get hot because of the skinny barrel

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Thanks mate. It definitely shoots the 150's really well. Is that Gundoc here?
Where is he based?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sideshow

This might give you a few answers Shooting with Hobie
Yep the triggers are a bugger.
Had mine done and it really improved matters.
As for bedding Nathan Foster has mentioned doing a few so maybe check out his website.

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Thanks Sideshow. will check it out.

Retired now from gunsmithing I think.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GSP HUNTER

Thanks mate. It definitely shoots the 150's really well. Is that Gundoc here?
Where is he based?

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retired way down south.

Ive been down this path somewhat. Theres a few discussions out there re accurising a blr. Basically stop over thinking it and enjoy what a great pointing rifle it is. 1i ch is very good for a blr. To get under youd need to hang the forgrip from the action housing. Its a hassle amd its flexi. Trigger is not something easily done.. Ines fine these days but could be better.
Best option is enjoy the rifle for below 200 shooting and get something else for long or tops shooting. Heres my latestAttachment 133702

Ps, barrel bands should floated off apparently

Think I saw it on here where someone just cut the barrel band but left it in place for looks.

Think I saw it on here where someone just cut the barrel band but left it in place for looks.

Just found this on another sight.

“blr trigger how to fix
heres what I found with mine (1)wrong sear spring-it had to many coils so it compressed solid and bent on the first action cycle. check this on yours,if you think your lucky and got a good trigger I would examine how well your sear is engaging.(2)large burr in sear pin hole,This was big enough to put a large gouge in the retaining pin.(3)Sear lip and full cock lip on hammer not parralel (spell check) look at the back of hammer where the sear rubs on cocking the rub marks should be evenly distributed.This is where the long drag and catch comes in.This requires the removal of some metal if your not qualified hire someone who is. These thing and some very light polishing with 1000 grit wet or dry paper have made my trigger excellent. Incidentally the sear spring is the only way to change trigger pull.The sickening lock time (or why it shoots better from the bench) The only ready solution I see is to reduce the mass of the hammer spring by replacing it with one with a more aggresive coil angle. too close to opening to start with this.”

Also found this which might be better.

I took my blr 308 trigger from 5 3/4 pounds down to 4 1/2 pounds just by putting in a new sear spring. This did not require a complete takedown of the gun.

You can buy an assortment pack of 100 small wolff springs for about $15. It's trial and error. Get a gun digest centerfire assembly manual. Also put tap over the pins before you tap them out. They have a dome top and your brass punch likes to slide off. Basically your just trying to slide the sear out to replace the spring. As long as you don't take the bolt and pinion gear out you don't have to worry about timing.

I use mine for hunting and the 4 1/2 pound trigger is fine. You could also try cutting a few loops off your hammer spring.I do that on my Win 94's . If you cut off to many you will get misfires. $10 for a new spring and start over.

I sold my blr in 7 mag because the trigger pull was so heavy and I couldn't find a gunsmith that wanted to deal with it. After thinking about it . I did what I have told you with my 308 and it works just fine.

mount a low power scope as low as possible and just shoot stuff with it....they are primo bush rifles. mine was sub MOA with reloads so 350ish wasnt completely off the cards.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cowboy

Ive been down this path somewhat. Theres a few discussions out there re accurising a blr. Basically stop over thinking it and enjoy what a great pointing rifle it is. 1i ch is very good for a blr. To get under youd need to hang the forgrip from the action housing. Its a hassle amd its flexi. Trigger is not something easily done.. Ines fine these days but could be better.
Best option is enjoy the rifle for below 200 shooting and get something else for long or tops shooting. Heres my latestAttachment 133702

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Thanks cowboy, mines much the same.
I can live with the trigger, I dont this firearm has
Had much use.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

mount a low power scope as low as possible and just shoot stuff with it....they are primo bush rifles. mine was sub MOA with reloads so 350ish wasnt completely off the cards.

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It could be time to bring the leupy M8 3x into
action on this one MD.

STOP IT.......that combo is enough to make a bush hobbit have wet dreams........my 4x m8 went very very well on mine.

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ing-one-49999/

On page two of this thread the OP mentions getting the trigger looked at but does not give a name. It was not Gundoc.

I think Hardys also are able to do triggers on lever guns, @Goosebayhunter I think you mentioned someone the other day too

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

STOP IT.......that combo is enough to make a bush hobbit have wet dreams........my 4x m8 went very very well on mine.

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Greetings,
Good to see that there are still several people in NZ that understand the benefit of fixed low power scopes especially on bush hunting rifles. Excellent field of view, nothing to fiddle with and stuff up and light as well. The low power variables 1.5 - 4 x 20 are almost as good if you must have something to twiddle.
Regards Grandpamac.

The problem with the BLR trigger is the totally weird hammer/sear relationship (clearly designed by a graduate engineer and not a gunsmith). Without some experience it is very easy to change this set-up into something that will simply not work safely, or not even work at all! If you can get a result by changing springs then give it a go. Do not stone or file the hammer or sear unless you are totally confident that you know what you are doing! Before you ask, the answer is no, I am retired.

Shot mine today ex@bomb,I owned it before but now threaded and suppressed, at 80 metres shot a 3 shot group I won't show you, under 12mm.

Attachment 133804

Attachment 133805

Attachment 133804

Attachment 133806

should not have sold it :(

I grabbed some tru oil amd other bits and bobs today. Thought i might give the stocks the treatment over the enforced break.

Well that was a disaster. Turns out that varnish is an epoxyband regular pint stripper doesnt do anything. Anyone got tips for an epoxy coating

try wrapping the stripper with glad wrap after application.

Sand it off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Got-ya

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ing-one-49999/

On page two of this thread the OP mentions getting the trigger looked at but does not give a name. It was not Gundoc.

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Will PM contact details.

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....project-48961/

have a read bro- strippers dont work- elbow grease does

pm me if u need mate

Ants

only thing i found for epoxy was tergo-strip. dont even know if you can still get it as it was real nasty stuff. be bloody careful with it and make sure you have lots of ventilation.
i put my rifle stock in the oven and got it almost too hot to touch, applied the tergo and epoxy came off pretty well. still lots of sanding afterwards though

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gonetropo

only thing i found for epoxy was tergo-strip. dont even know if you can still get it as it was real nasty stuff. be bloody careful with it and make sure you have lots of ventilation.
i put my rifle stock in the oven and got it almost too hot to touch, applied the tergo and epoxy came off pretty well. still lots of sanding afterwards though

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What about media blasting, vapor blasting etc ?

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Originally Posted by dannyb

What about media blasting, vapor blasting etc ?

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never tried, might ruin the wood though. tergo is/was great. it could remove gel-coat from fi-glass boats pretty well

If it does gelcoat then itll do this for sure. Murphys law i looked on the Internet about diggers paint stripper and saw the review which had 55 of them and everyone saying it was useless and did nothing. Bastards. I added my review

Attachment 133949

LOL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cowboy

Well that was a disaster. Turns out that varnish is an epoxyband regular pint stripper doesnt do anything. Anyone got tips for an epoxy coating

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If it is like some off the hard finishes you can scrape of using a piece of glass.

Im Not sure it'd clean up the grip. Apparently heat brings it off but i havemt got a heat gun here and flame seems like a bad idea.

Quote from Hobie, anyone know what Citristrip is?

Repairs

I can not verify this, but my research shows that Browning depends on a natural product called Kanabe to coat its stocks. Citristrip has been reported as one of the better ways to remove the Browning epoxy type finish.