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I just took delivery today. Nice looking gun. Lighter than expected.
Maple furniture SS everywhere else.
Any advice? (Apart from I shoulda got a 308 Tikker ):wtfsmilie:
I've wiped it down with Ballistol and that's it.
I'm thinking I'll skip the clean fire clean fire break-in and just put a box through it to sight it.
Can I count on the wood being sealed all round?
Do I need to dismantle and oil the underside of the freefloated barrel?
Advice is appreciated.
:useless:
Do brake the barrel in and I would not expect any factory wooden stock to be particularly well sealed.
My wooden Savages are impressively well sealed inside and out. My wooden Ruger isn't. No idea about a Browning, I guess the best way to find out is have a look.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shearer
Come on Sam show us, no bragging rights till the pic's come though
If fact, I reckon we should instigate a 5$ fine for folk who write about new guns but no photos
say a 24hr grace period.
The wham, cough the 5.:)
I'm calling it my son's rifle because I hope it pans out that well. But like wives, time will tell. Best you have a good look up the barrel before you commit.
I better strip it then.Quote:
Originally Posted by GravelBen
Looking good.
im not saying you should do it but ive never broken a barrel in with that shoot clean thing ive just taken it out and shot it like normal and cleaned it afterwoods i just dont over heat it and give it a good clean before first shooting it ive never noticed any ill effects with my ones
The barrel break in is a matter of preference. There is enough evidence to suggest it helps, but, that being said, I have never stuck to any kind of strict regime.
As Northdude said, I just make sure it doesn't get too hot and clean it properly after each session up to 100 or so rounds.
Might be the exception there @GravelBen. I have had quite a few wooden stock off rifles and can't remember one that didn't need extra work to seal the in-letting properly. Under the butt pad is another place that never seem to get any attention.Quote:
Originally Posted by GravelBen
From my experience with having two X-Bolts is that the trigger is a little heavy, even when lightened to minimum factory setting. Easy to remedy by popping into any engineering supply store and picking up a lighter spring. All you have to do is wind out the little grub screw at the bottom of the trigger assembly and swap the springs out. Triggers are mint then, no creep and break nice and crisp.
My 7mm-08 X-Bolt loves 140gr Nosler Ballistic Tips with Ar2208 behind them. Not the fastest velocities, but super accurate and a honey to shoot.
Even amongst the barrel makers there is not complete consensus on breaking in a barrel. However, having spent a shit load of money what is the issue with doing the break in? It takes a bit of time but if it potentially benefits your investment I would recommend doing it. Probably already too late in the case of the OP.
I break in all my bolt action rifle barrels more as a piece mind as my very first new guns the mini 14 and mini 30 I just shot them and never hardly cleaned them shot 2"-3" groups.
What optics you putting on it and are you going to chop and suppress it?
What are you doing while it cools, might as well push a rag through ;)
Shooting other guns I brought to the range... Duh :p
Come to think of it I've never looked under the butt pad. It looks like the Savages were sealed after inletting and the Ruger was sealed before inletting. Always worth checking anyway!Quote:
Originally Posted by ShearerMight be the exception there @GravelBen. I have had quite a few wooden stock off rifles and can't remember one that didn't need extra work to seal the in-letting properly. Under the butt pad is another place that never seem to get any attention.Quote:
Originally Posted by GravelBen
I got a Zeiss 4-12. The best my budget could reach to. Never had a scope worth more than 100 before.Quote:
Originally Posted by tikka
Thanks for the input, advice and support. I'll break it in properly. And will dismantle and seal tomorrow.
When I put it back together should I leave a slick of gun grease on the underside of the barrel to protect it?
I'm not even sure how to get the butt pad off.Quote:
Originally Posted by GravelBen
It will be held on by two screws (probably #2 Philips head). If you look closely you will be able to see the tiny slits in the pad. Get the appropriate screw driver and grease the head and shaft well so when you unscrew it you won't rip the rubber of the pad. Apply plenty of good sealant to the raw timber. You can screw the pad back on with the sealant still wet if you don't think you will want to remove it again.Quote:
Originally Posted by YosemiteSam
If Savage seal the stock after inletting the butt is probably done too. Good stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by GravelBen
I took the rifle out for a break-in today. Nice and slow, shoot clean shoot. I only got eight shots in because I'm a Volly firefighter and the siren went up.
It's bloody loud to shoot. Louder than I expected. The kick is ok but after eight shots I was getting tired of it. No biggie just something to get used to. The ejected brass was quite cool. That surprised me too. Why isn't it hot?
I was shooting 150g partisan cheep stuff for break-in.
Hope you are wearing ear protection at the range????Quote:
Originally Posted by YosemiteSam
Yep. Full cans on the ears.
Just for the record, the browning X-bolt maple stocks are unsealed everywhere you can't see. They squirt the bedding onto bare wood and jam the action in and let it harden. And then never want to undo all that to seal the wood. But a tablespoon of Tung oil will fix all of that.
Because one day somebody wanting to buy an X-Bolt will read this... The 25th to 28th shots ever fired from my rifle. At 122 yards in a light breeze.
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