Thread: BSA 7x57 advice

Pauli yours looks great. I'd love to do the same but want to keep it original and put the original scope back on when I hand it down. They will be the 5th generation to shoot the rifle.

Originally Posted by Newbie

Pauli yours looks great. I'd love to do the same but want to keep it original and put the original scope back on when I hand it down. They will be the 5th generation to shoot the rifle.

what was the original scope?
if the rings are steel they should last the rifles lifetime

Originally Posted by Newbie

Thanks Pauli I was going to give the stock a crack myself, just not sure quite how to strip the varnish off the checkering... I'll get intouch with Chop3r though, thanks heaps. Yeah I plan to take it out for a walk in August hence replacing the scope. Did you replace the butt plate?

I have used simple green in the past. Works pretty good

Originally Posted by Russian 22.

I have used simple green in the past. Works pretty good

thanks Russian, I was planning on paint stripper but simple green might be a gentler first step maybe...

Originally Posted by scotty

what was the original scope?
if the rings are steel they should last the rifles lifetime

Probably a steel tube fixed power weaver or pecar going by the vintage. Unless it was damaged it would still be perfectly suitable to use when hunting. "If it worked before no reason it wont work now".

Originally Posted by scotty

what was the original scope?
if the rings are steel they should last the rifles lifetime

its a Pecar?

Not bad Marty. picked like a dirty nose.

Originally Posted by Newbie

its a Pecar? Attachment 115830

it will have a 26mm tube how do the rings fit on your new scope (most likely a 1 inch tube?)

Originally Posted by Russian 22.

I have used simple green in the past. Works pretty good

Careful soft toothbrush or similar (checkering) a good thick wet-flannel,pressed with something very hot (I use a hunk of solid-copper) lifts out the dings in the wood. Spraying-thinners rubbed vigorously on oil-stains helps ,as does hydrogen-peroxide, not too-much,for too long as it bleaches and softens. Have fun, it's very rewarding...and you could re-blue yourself as well, I use my own variation of Midway USA's instructional video, and KleenBore black magic .Preparation is everything, evenly-polished metal,cheap $2-shop white cotton gloves for final polish. You can get it close to a Sako-finish

Hey @Newbie what’s the serial number on the 7x57 if it’s got 5B it’s a Hunter Viscount made between 1955-62 which I’m fairly sure it is judging from the pics you posted. If it’s 5R then it’s a CF2 1973-86
Nice rifle a little tlc to the stock and it will look great! See how it shoots first then you could pillar bed it and it will be a great gun. Even re-barrel it if it doesn’t shoot. There very good actions

For your stock work.
Right strip off the old oil varnish what ever is on it. Leave the checkering alone! Maybe by a checkering tool to run over the old checkering to sharpen it up. But you will need to know what type it is how many checkers per inch.
Wash the stripper off! No not that stripper
Then fine sand bring out any dents with a hot knife and a wet rag. Place wet rag on top of dent then hot knife onto the rag, this will lift dents right out. Next keep sanding add a little water to lift the grain and fine wood then sand again. Keep this up till it’s smooth.

recipe for the gunstock oil...
Buy some Alkanet root. Also some grain filler the best my gun maker recommended is rotten stone powder very fine.
1) Chop the Alkanet root up finely.
2) Put the chopped root into a glass jar (with a lid that seals well).
3) Add sufficient boiled linseed and GENUINE (not substitute) turpentine mixed in a ratio of 5:1 by volume to cover the chopped root and seal the jar.
4) Place in a warm and dark place for a couple of weeks, shaking every couple of days and opening the jar (to ensure the lid doesn't glue itself on) once a week.
5) After a couple of weeks, strain through a old pair of tights to remove bits. Remove wife from tights beforehand
6) Dilute using just boiled linseed until you have the shade you need. Test this on a similar coloured wood sample.
7) Store in the dark.

The primary colour change occurs with the first and second coat - subsequent coats deepen the colour slightly but can be dispensed with depending on personal choice - and so you don't need much at all. Although I never measure it and always make more than I need, 25ml would probably be plenty (obviously depending on stock porosity/grain filler) - however, it doesn't keep for more than a few weeks.

You need to restrict the air because the boiled linseed and turpentine will lose volatile components, making the resultant mixture more viscous and affecting the colour takeup on the stock - particularly if the walnut is less porous. The sunlight seems to accelerate the inevitable colour change from red/purple to red/brown, and the resultant colour on the stock seems to lose something.

Your shotgun is a bit of a mystery. It was made after 1925, and from the 2-1/2" chambers I would think well before WW2. The Target brand on the action flat is nothing more than a marketing name chosen by some retail customer who would have ordered a few of them. I believe the gun was made by the Midland Gun company of Birmingham who were very active in the trade before WW2, and manufactured guns for retailers with their individual brands on them. Examples are fairly commonly found in NZ and Australia with names like NZ Farmers Co-Op, W H Tisdall, Colonial Ammunition Company, etc. These guns were offered in a wide variety of grades from plain hammer guns to high quality sidelock ejectors, and retailers often offered two or three grades. I suspect the Target brand was for an English retailer and I have never seen it before. Do not use 2-3/4" cartridges in this gun as that will produce higher pressures in the sort chamber and shorten the life of the gun. I believe Falcon offer 2-1/2" ammo on a limited basis. As I stated earlier, the gun is not designed nor safe to used with steel shot.

Your 7x57 BSA is popularly known as a Hunter model in NZ but the action was made in different lengths for different cartridges and can also be known as the Royal, Imperial, and Viscount, depending on the action length. It is a well-made and collectable rifle, and as such I would advise you to leave it in its original condition. Stock refinishing, bedding, or rebarrelling will all adversely affect its collector value.

Thanks heaps for your advice Sideshow, Russian 22., rewa, Marty Henry, and gundoc the main reason I wanted to reblue and refurbish the stock was to lengthen the rifles lifespan as opposed to it looking better. It was given to me on the proviso that it didn't just sit in my safe so anything I can do to mean that it gets some meat but will last in its current condition to still be passed on is what I'll do.

Scotty had a good point is it a big issue putting a 1 inch tube in 26mm rings? It seems pretty snug but but me trying to wiggle it probably isn't that scientific.

Gundoc thanks so much for the ID on the shotgun. This one might just stay in the safe as an ornament.

The .22 has pitting on the barrel so I'm guessing that's a write off too? also missing the magazine atm.

Keep a hold of that end sight shroud! There rear as hens teeth!

@Newbie, something to file away for later perhaps:

If you reload 7x57 ammo, you'll be able to make loads that will be less expensive, and if you have kids who want to learn to shoot, softer.

You'll also be able to make what the rifle likes best to shoot accurately.