Thread: Calibre and Barrel Length Decision......

Combination

Should I stop using the hand brake on my car

As long as your car is pointed in safe direction ;-)

NZ is the only country in the world that uses a "half cock". Every where else in the world uses the safety.
To solve the issue just get a Blaser, the decocker does just that, decocks the firing pin.

Originally Posted by stug

NZ is the only country in the world that uses a "half cock".

And as most rifles fully cock on opening we cant even get the name right.

I've had some advice from more than one person that I should set aside my Sako obsession, and consider one of NZHunter's carbon stocked, T3 based builds. So interested (and appreciative) of any informed views on that?

You get the weight and performances of the sako at a much cheaper price.
Just start with a factory fluted tikka( cheapest weight/price, and cheaper than a carbon barrel or a barrel fluted afterward), get a carbon stock on it and you can get the bolt fluted if You want. Barrel cut at whatever suit your boat , suppressed eventually, and the rest of the money can go toward a very good scope and the amo.

If you already own a sako just get a carbon f stock for it

Talking of stocks........

Originally Posted by Pengy

Talking of stocks........

Not yet

Originally Posted by Gibo

If you already own a sako just get a carbon f stock for it

Yes, I have a handful of them, but none currently stainless.

Originally Posted by Maxx

Yes, I have a handful of them, but none currently stainless.

If you already have a few Sakos I doubt you will be happy with a Tikka....or maybe thats just me.

Originally Posted by Maxx

Yes, I have a handful of them, but none currently stainless.

Get a carbon stock and get the rifle coated for about $250. The coating is pretty hardy, better than blueing anyway. Why do you need it to be ss to get a carbon fibre?

Originally Posted by Maxx

Yes, I have a handful of them, but none currently stainless.

Search Tikka carbon stock on TM, and have a look. They're bloody nice in the flesh, send the barreled action to him and he'll bed it for you

B

Originally Posted by Maxx

I am about to take the plunge and buy my first plastic and silver rifle. It will also be the first that has a suppressor.... It will be a Sako Finnlight, and all I now need to decide is whether to get a .260 or .308...and what will largely determine that is which will allow the barrel to be shortened while giving up the least performance? I already have a .260 and .308 so am familiar with them, but haven't bothered myself with the implications of chopping them in the past, hence this question. And I expect this rifle to do everything, from bush hunting to as far as it can reasonably reach.

Thanks in anticipation.

There are better options IMO if you want to go Sako, than shortening a Finlite or an '85 Hunter.

This is THE nicest Sako I've handled, available in NZ and in .308. No need to chop, and easily threaded by removing the factory open sights and blanking the threaded holes that are exposed with grub screws.
Medium profile factory fluted barrel, nice soft touch stock, points beautifully.



A competent gunsmith should be able thread it without shortening it, and fit an 'invisible' thread protector that will allow you to refit the factory sights if you decide to sell it down the track.

I'm sure @10-Ring will chime in if you want load data etc.

B