Hey folks,
Recently aquired a leupy vx3 6.5-20x40 for my 7mm rem mag.
It came with 2 sets of turrets capped and exposed.
I can see pros and cons for both but what's the general consensus for open ground hunting and why ?
Thanks
Attachment 88567
Hey folks,
Recently aquired a leupy vx3 6.5-20x40 for my 7mm rem mag.
It came with 2 sets of turrets capped and exposed.
I can see pros and cons for both but what's the general consensus for open ground hunting and why ?
Thanks
Attachment 88567
i never had my cap on my vx3 with the same turret mine was only a 3.5-10 and was used a lot in the bush too never moved
its a varmint/target scope . . the exposed/larger turrets are for range use
Sorry a bit more clarification, was wondering if the benifit of mounting the exposed turrets outweighs the cons of the protection, time, and risk of losing caps if I need to dial up once my quarry has been ranged as the reticle has no holdover marks etc (excuse my terminology)
Is it worth just mounting the elevation turret to dial up holdover/under etc.
I reality not likely to shoot at massive range however have access to a 500m range for practice and would like to be confident out to 300-400m mark.
Rifle will be zeroed at 200m.....am I over thinking this ?
Taking the elevation cap off in a hurry to dial can be a pain. I take my elevation cap off (smaller scope) as soon as I get to where I hunt.
You might want to check that the target turrets are water sealed for hunting in the rain.
With your zero at 200 then 300 is easy as you probably know, just hold poa on top of shoulder. With a duplex reticle u can use the top of the thick post to give you another hold over point. Post on Leupold duplex is 4 moa ? Can’t remember but google it for your scope and see where 4 moa comes out on your drop chart . Probably around 400-450 yrd for 7mmRM and decent BC pill. For longer ranges you will have plenty of time to remove the cap and dial.
Thanks, for reference mine is fine target dot.... Again I know not ideal long-range hunting scope but best glass I could afford
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i would have said exposed for open country as the liklihood of bumping zero is low, and you can confirm you are set on zero periodically or prior to taking a shot if needed. However, if your turrets are not sealed then yes, i would keep them capped. Have a think though so you can know what features you are looking for if/when you upgrade.
I have scopes with exposed turrets on my LR rifles, open country or not there is still obviously the potential to get rubbed on your pack etc if slung and the turrets turned, you just need to always be in the habbit of always quickly casting your eye over them to make sure they are on zero, its no biggie.
Exposed turrets is the way to go if you need to dailup in a hurry but if the turrets clicks are soft and rotate easily a capped turret may be a better choice especially if there’s no zero stop and loose your zero. So all my scopes now have zero stop for that reason. There’s nothing worse than having to rezero a rifle in a hunting area.
Most of mine don't have caps. If it's open and at long range you should have time. And your going to adjust anyway.
However if the rifle is shouldered you may bump the turret. May put you out on a snap shot.
Always had and preferred low profile capped turrets.
95% of my hunting, shots are taken well within 100yrds.
If I am shooting where I need to dial, it won't be on an animal unless at an extreme angle within 500
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This scope is not perfect for rugged hunting tahr and red stags but it will be pretty good and if you got it for a good price you can afford to take it out and thrash it. Check the warranty, if necessary email Leupold, and I'd be surprised if they don't guarantee its waterproof while using exposed dial turrets (maybe not with the caps off though). If its a copy then you've still got little to lose by taking it out and using it hard.
I wouldn't sell it on. It will always be excellent for testing loads, trajectory and rifle accuracy and of course for target shooting. It would also be ideal for longer range small game shooting like for hares or wallabies on a .223. I wish i had a good quality, reliable, high power scope like that.
Regarding capped or dial: I've always found it difficult to use holdover - there's a lot that can go wrong. "top of shoulder" can mean from 10 to 30cm yet more often you will be aiming for "bottom of shoulder" when the range is closer to 100m and you don't have a definite aim point to focus on... So, unless its under 200m, dialing is much more reliable for me. Since you've chosen the way of adjustable turrets to start with, you should back yourself and use them.
Rest assured it's genuine, sighting in tomorrow have up to 500m to play with at the range so will have a play
First, Sight in spot on at 200m, then get where the shots print at 100 and 300 without dialling.
If you get out to 500m, start by firing a group with the sights set to 200 and note where they fall on the reticle at a good hunting power like 10x 0r 12x then you'll have a baseline for holdover. Measure the drop in inches and use that to calibrate any ballistic program you use (adjust the muzzle velocity to fit observed real drop). Next if you've got enough ammo dial the sights up and trial and error till they are hitting center elevation (don't worry about wind - thats just learning) Write down at the time or photograph how many minutes show on the dial. That is what you'll refer to when hunting. It will also test whether the scope really moves MOA, inch per hundred yards or what. I don't bother to count clicks (can only count to 5 under pressure) just look at the dial.
If you've got heaps of ammo, one day make up a life size tahr silhouette from corrugated cardboard and try holding over on it to see if you can get killing shots. The 7mm Rem Mag is the best commercial calibre for doing this.
This general advice is good but saying " note where they fall on the reticle.." won't work with this particular scope as it has a simple dot reticle.
Yeah you won't be doing any (precise) holdovers with that reticle. I would be leaving the cap off and dial. Put a neoprene cover over the lot to protect it.
Can you zero the turrets? Does it have a zero stop?
You can zero the turrets, still trying to figure out what "zero stop" is @chalkeye
Looks like not zero stop from what I can tell, also apparently waterproof without the caps on so I may well mount the elevation turret for ease. Obviously keeping in mind that need to keep an eye on it making sure it is zeroed before making adjustments in the field
I use both capped and uncapped, cant say i have a preference. With the capped a stock pac is handy to drop the cap into when you take it off, I prefer the forward closing zip, access is good by opening only an inch or so and if I forget to close it I dont loose stuff when I sling it on the shoulder.
I’ve got lost a few times with my turrets dialing long range say 38 MOA on goats and then after shooting not returning to the 100m zero, later on that day setting up to shoot on another animal and forgetting what I previously dialed to? Was it 18moa 28moa or 38moa? I have even had my turrets mover carry it on my pack and not know which way to return it up down left right. A zero stop sorts that out on the elevation turret.
Here’s a vid of the basic idea of zero stop.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O4rqWoW3wR8
or get your mate with a lathe to make a Scotsman's version ( a custom spacer under the elev cap)
Exposed, readily available adjustments on the go. But if your gonna go bush, capped would be fine. But long range requires adjustments and exposed I find are more accurate than capped, personal experience....... plus exposed look cooler :)
The turrets won’t matter unless they are 1/8 th which they probably are and you will have to count revolutions and remember to dial back down the same amount The reticle on the other hand may be not ideal for all round hunting. But that’s personal preference. But you can make anything work if you learn it.