Copper remover

Hi Guys
Iv got quite a copper buildup when looking at the muss its Farley evenly spread around , tried rem bore brite put 50 odd patches through it yesterday along with a bronze brush but it hasn't done much at all hoppes 9 was no good either so I got my hands on some Gunslick foaming bore cleaner today definatly leaves the patch pretty blue it may have removed some already so iv filled the barrel & taped it up , upsidedown will leave it to soak for the night .
Whats everyone else using , method ?
Cheers

my go to , for almost all barrel cleaning (i shoot a lot of lead) is a copper chore boy wrapped around a bronze brush ... must be copper , not copper coated ...

sweets 7.62 solvent
KH

Thanks itl be interesting to see what happens in the morning , if that doesn't work il give the chore boy a go , where do you get them ?

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Originally Posted by Boaraxa

Hi Guys
Iv got quite a copper buildup when looking at the muss its Farley evenly spread around , tried rem bore brite put 50 odd patches through it yesterday along with a bronze brush but it hasn't done much at all hoppes 9 was no good either so I got my hands on some Gunslick foaming bore cleaner today definatly leaves the patch pretty blue it may have removed some already so iv filled the barrel & taped it up , upsidedown will leave it to soak for the night .
Whats everyone else using , method ?
Cheers

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You are using one of the best copper removers, a heavy Cu deposit may need repeat treatments.

Where do I get some Gunslick from?
I've been using elminator.
Sorry for the hijack.

kg products copper removal does the business for me.

Craftys guns n hunting shop in Hastings

bore tech eliminator magic stuff my trueflight I don't even use a brush just a few drips per patch a 500ml bottle has lasted 4 years so far still about half left let me know if you are stuck and ill send you a bit in a wee bottle to try

bore tech cu+2 copper remover is another option for realy fouled barrels a lot hasher on the barrel though
sweets 7.62 works well but fuck me it stinks like well used long drop toilet and for god sakes don't leave it in your barrel it will eat it as well as copper

Remington bore brite is only really powder solvent not really for copper which is probably didn't work for you

let me know how you get on with the gunslick foaming stuff been thinking of giving it ago what is the active ingredient in that? if it ammonia I wout not leave it in the barrel longer than about 5 or 10 mins

[QUOTE=Kiwi
Opinions are like elbows everyone has a couple of them.
Now this statement-if it's ammonia? not to leave it in the barrel longer than about 5 or 10 mins.
Well I would say the new barrels I have a new custom barrel form across the ditch in stainless.
I asked the same question as I was told the say thing, [B]Answer from the maker we have filled barrels with ammonia and left standing over night with not a problem.
[/B]But I always flush well after solvent cleaning, just out of habit.
KH

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Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

You are using one of the best copper removers, a heavy Cu deposit may need repeat treatments.

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That's good to no , its quite well priced $19 for the small can looks like itl last a fare while to , will report back tomorrow .Thanks guys.

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Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem

bore tech eliminator magic stuff my trueflight I don't even use a brush just a few drips per patch a 500ml bottle has lasted 4 years so far still about half left let me know if you are stuck and ill send you a bit in a wee bottle to try

bore tech cu+2 copper remover is another option for realy fouled barrels a lot hasher on the barrel though
sweets 7.62 works well but fuck me it stinks like well used long drop toilet and for god sakes don't leave it in your barrel it will eat it as well as copper

Remington bore brite is only really powder solvent not really for copper which is probably didn't work for you

let me know how you get on with the gunslick foaming stuff been thinking of giving it ago what is the active ingredient in that? if it ammonia I wout not leave it in the barrel longer than about 5 or 10 mins

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Thanks for the offer , it says no ammonia contains ethanolamine & liquefied petroleum gas

super markets have pure copper choreboy or similer copper scourer pads

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Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem

bore tech cu+2 copper remover is another option for really fouled barrels a lot harsher on the barrel though

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Can you please elaborate on this? Reason I ask is I use this stuff, seems to work really well but I'm not sure that it is harsh on barrels as it says on the bottle that it's okay to leave a wet patch in the barrel for storage.

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Originally Posted by Danger Mouse

kg products copper removal does the business for me.

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KG12 proven in tests to be the best Cu remover. I just hate the way it rolls off the patch when you pour it on. You have to almost massage it in.
Boretech Cu+2 excellent, nicer to use than KG12.
Bore Foam (I use either Gunslick or Wipe Out + Accelerator) very effective on barrels that don't copper up real bad. Back to KG12 or Cu+2 for them. Bore foams used to be the cleaner of choice for Border Barrels when running in. They would leave the foam in over night.
Sweets - threw mine away long time ago. Has been proven to damage SS barrels. Your call if you wish to risk leaving it in your barrel for a period longer than 10 minutes. I’ll not take that risk on expensive barrels that take months to get here and cost reasonable money to chamber etc.
Hoppes 9 - great smell but useless for heavy Cu.
The fowling will be in several layers - copper, carbon. Need to attach each individually. Despite what the snake oil makers claim there is no one stop shop solvent that effectively removes both. Although Eliminator comes close. Need to also use an effective carbon cleaner. I use Mercury Outboard top engine cleaner, or the equivalent Subaru product. Boretech make a carbon cleaner which is probably more human safe!
JBs has its use along with Autosol if all else fails.
Handy if you have access to a bore scope. I have looked down barrels that owners claim to be clean and have seen sheets of Cu still. Next shots just keep building it up.
To check, push a cotton bud 15 – 20 mm down muzzle and you will get a good view. Can use small torch and magnifier to inspect there as well.
Good luck.

+1 on that.
I gave up on Sweets (smell) and Eliminator (not that effective) and am more than happy with KG12.

Boretech Carbon Remover is a great gen purpose solvent and certainly safer on your body that the Top Engine Cleaner I used to use.

Used to use sweets. But can't get it anymore in England. On a side note which you don't get it on the outside of a blued barrel as it will take the bluing off :O_O:

to say I have tried most things could be an understatement!
the best and easiest so far are the 2 foaming bore cleaners by a long shot with top prize going to the wipe outhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...162de13f69.jpg

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

I use the Gunslick foam, but equally as good if not better is Pro Shot Copper Solvent 1V. The pro shot is less messy.

I dropped onto the Pro Shot when I noticed it would bring out blue patches after the foam would not.

Copper fowling can be a bugger. As others have said, you need to cut through to the copper with a carbon remover. The Pro Shot seems to be able to do this too. The label reckons it can.

Aqueous ammonia, 29%, worked through with barrel solvents using a nylon brush so I guess it forms an emulsion. I don't leave the mix in the barrel for very long, but then have never needed to as it is quite effective. I've not seen any sign of chemical action on the steel in the timeframe used. Most of the ammonia would outgas pretty quickly if not sealed in, and the dilute electrolyte of various bits and bobs formed in combination with atmospheric oxygen probably isn't very good for barrels in the long term. That is probably how ammonia gets its bad reputation.

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Originally Posted by Sasquatch

Can you please elaborate on this? Reason I ask is I use this stuff, seems to work really well but I'm not sure that it is harsh on barrels as it says on the bottle that it's okay to leave a wet patch in the barrel for storage.

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Just what i was told by the guy at the gunshop mate he said is only really for barrel that are pitted like old 303's etc that need a harsher cleaner to clean out the nooks and crannies...says that it's ok to store with it in the gun on the eliminater aswell but I never would always clean any solvent no matter what out with meths and then oil with
ballistol oil

For me scrubbs cloudy ammonia from the supermarket is the quickest and easiest. If the fouling is heavy with carbon as well mixing it with chalk dust does the trick as its a super mild abrasive. Patch soaked in that comes out blue instantly. Dont use a brass or ali jag, stainless only, and i follow up with a meths wipe before oiling. From an ex chemists viewpoint ammonia is the most efficent copper dissolver, the amine based ones were introduced as they smell less but the trade off is less activity. Regarding rust as long as the ph is high steel wont rust, ammonia is strongly alkaline but will evapourate leaving water behind, so if the metals not properly dry thats when rusting can start. Using meths pulls all the water out before oiling

Thanks for all the input guys...so put a patch through after leaving the gunslick soak overnight & hoora lots of dark blue goop came out most of the visible copper has gone still a bit of carbon in there by the looks of the patch , pretty happy with how its worked compared to what I had tried , il keep repeating until the barrel is clean.
Cheers.

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Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem

Just what i was told by the guy at the gunshop mate he said is only really for barrel that are pitted like old 303's etc that need a harsher cleaner to clean out the nooks and crannies...says that it's ok to store with it in the gun on the eliminater aswell but I never would always clean any solvent no matter what out with meths and then oil with
ballistol oil

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Interesting. Wouldn't a few clean dry patches be adequate for removing solvent rather then meths before putting an oil patch through at the end of cleaning? I have never bothered to put meths in my barrels after cleaning carbon/copper out but it seems a few here do?

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Originally Posted by Sasquatch

Interesting. Wouldn't a few clean dry patches be adequate for removing solvent rather then meths before putting an oil patch through at the end of cleaning? I have never bothered to put meths in my barrels after cleaning carbon/copper out but it seems a few here do?

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A wet patch would do....Ammonia is attracted to and dissolved in water..so if you are paranoid about traces of ammonia left in your barrel attracting moisture and causing corrosion the best course of action is actually water/wet patches that will absorb ammonia then dry and oil, meths will attract moisture to an extent but really you need to get rid of the moisture attractant in the first place (Ammonia)

Just had a read on the Boretech cu+2 bottle and it doesn't contain any ammonia so I'm all good :thumbsup: But not sure if my Mpro-7 gun cleaner has any or not. Doesn't say, use it for attacking carbon does a sweet job for cleaning carbon fouling.