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Thread: DIY Tactical Paint Job for Marlin

  1. #16
    Member GSP HUNTER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ground Control View Post
    You mention Ryan Cleckner , if you search his Podcast “ Going Ballistic “ he has a couple where he talks extensively about painting rifles .
    He makes it very clear that his painted rifles look like shit up close , but thats not the point of the exercise .
    The more worn and rough they look the better the camouflaging effect is at a distance especially when paired with other coverings of natural foliage or wrappings . He still paints some of his rifles , but its more for nostalgia of his previous life than anything.
    Thanks Ground Control and everyone else who added to the convo on this thread. I'm usually wood and blued kind of guy, I have a real love hate thing for synthetic rifles despite their glaringly obvious advantages. I like the deconstructed element of Cleckners rifle. In my mind, this approach takes a synthetic rifle to where I naturally see them as almost agricultural tools. Who knows, my goups might tighten

  2. #17
    Member Bigash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSP HUNTER View Post
    . Who knows, my goups might tighten
    Its guaranteed!!

    Also a way of making a stencil is spray some crc onto some plastic ( I used one of the plastic folders for paper) then use pva glue for the design you want , let it dry for a day or so and the glue hardens into a cool rubber stencil that has flex to fold around stocks barrels etc



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  3. #18
    Member Sasquatch's Avatar
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    Here are two guns I painted both using this stuff which is an awesome product.

    Both guns were degreased thoroughly before painting. The beauty of Krylon is you can just spray it straight on without a primer. I found the AR looked 'better' once it started to develop wear from use. Paint never "flaked" off which shows how well it adheres to the metal, i never thought it looked shit even when it started to wear.

    The Tikka came up mint and yes, I even painted the scope. Was a little fiddly as I left the rings on and had to 'cut' in on the edges. Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6, think Marty Henry bought it off me?

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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigash View Post
    Its guaranteed!!

    Also a way of making a stencil is spray some crc onto some plastic ( I used one of the plastic folders for paper) then use pva glue for the design you want , let it dry for a day or so and the glue hardens into a cool rubber stencil that has flex to fold around stocks barrels etc



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You can use silicone or pva glue on baking paper. Residual crc on the glue can leave traces on the stock and a clear coat won't adhere in those spots.
    Last edited by Bol Tackshin; 29-08-2019 at 12:34 PM.
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  5. #20
    Member GSP HUNTER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch View Post
    Here are two guns I painted both using this stuff which is an awesome product.

    Both guns were degreased thoroughly before painting. The beauty of Krylon is you can just spray it straight on without a primer. I found the AR looked 'better' once it started to develop wear from use. Paint never "flaked" off which shows how well it adheres to the metal, i never thought it looked shit even when it started to wear.

    The Tikka came up mint and yes, I even painted the scope. Was a little fiddly as I left the rings on and had to 'cut' in on the edges. Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6, think Marty Henry bought it off me?

    Attachment 118779

    Attachment 118780

    Nice one Sasquatch, that's where I'm heading on the stock, I may get our resident Cerakote man to do the barrel so it's weather tight.
    Nice execution on the finish. The dark green matt finish looks sharp.
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  6. #21
    Member Sasquatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSP HUNTER View Post
    Nice one Sasquatch, that's where I'm heading on the stock, I may get our resident Cerakote man to do the barrel so it's weather tight.
    Nice execution on the finish. The dark green matt finish looks sharp.
    Thanks man. For the barrel I 'duracoated' it, only because I think cerokoting in NZ is quite pricey. SS barrel and action was degreased, rinced, then hung and dried in my garage. Heat-gunned for a few minutes to open up the pours in the metal, 3-4 coats of Wattyl etch primer applied with 1 hour dry time in between coats. Then finally about 2-3 coats of Kylon matt black to finish with 10-20mins dry time. Did it mid Feb last summer.

    I'm not easy on the little scout and the paint job has held up exceptionally well considering. I have been asked a couple of times at the range where I got my gun cerokoted...
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