Thread: DPT brake end cap

Originally Posted by tibo

Tested the brake cap today, definitely reduced recoil. Made a bit a bigger bang however still not even close to without a can

Is the Atec worth the extra cost and barrel overhang?

Originally Posted by Fisherman

Is the Atec worth the extra cost and barrel overhang?

Less overhang with only one module I personally wouldn't bother with the overbarrel version there's not much volume in that portion for the added weight (actually that's true of most overbarrel options but especially the atec. The locking system is so good no issues using the muzzle forward option.

Originally Posted by Stocky

Less overhang with only one module I personally wouldn't bother with the overbarrel version there's not much volume in that portion for the added weight (actually that's true of most overbarrel options but especially the atec. The locking system is so good no issues using the muzzle forward option.

If there is only one thing I dont like on the A-tec it’s their locking system. I loctite it in the suppressor

Originally Posted by tibo

If there is only one thing I dont like on the A-tec it’s their locking system. I loctite it in the suppressor

Why? There's no way I'd run any suppressor without a decent rear bushing without a locking style mount.

Originally Posted by Stocky

Why? There's no way I'd run any suppressor without a decent rear bushing without a locking style mount.

Didn’t pay attention between shot, A-lock system got loose and supressor launched down range 120m to beat… had also point of impact moving slightly around between shooting session depending how hard I was tightening the A-lock

Originally Posted by tibo

Didn’t pay attention between shot, A-lock system got loose and supressor launched down range 120m to beat… had also point of impact moving slightly around between shooting session depending how hard I was tightening the A-lock

2 questions I guess.

My alock is so tight I've had to break it free with the vice before ive got to the point i lather it liberally in silver antisieze. Are you sure your adapter didn't loosen? Guess if just the suppressor launched it has to be the alock.

On POI are you sure your rifles as accurate as you think/does your scope actually hold zero. I had shifting zeros with a VX3i and managed to track it down to it not liking vibrations when being behind the seat. And also unless you have down a high round composite group "shifting zero" is often just the real accuracy of a rifle being observed over a larger sample size (assuming your meaning 0.25-0.5 moa shifts) gimp threads are a decent example of this. When I sighted in prior to the Shoot a few weeks ago if I'd zeroed of the forst 5 I'd have been high 0.2mils and left 0.2 mils at 10 shots with 1 "flyer" I'd have been high 0.2 and left 0.1. That's the most extreme I've seen it with 10 I don't think most people's rifles cone of fire is as good as they think (not that it really matters in most cases)

Originally Posted by Stocky

2 questions I guess.

My alock is so tight I've had to break it free with the vice before ive got to the point i lather it liberally in silver antisieze. Are you sure your adapter didn't loosen? Guess if just the suppressor launched it has to be the alock.

On POI are you sure your rifles as accurate as you think/does your scope actually hold zero. I had shifting zeros with a VX3i and managed to track it down to it not liking vibrations when being behind the seat. And also unless you have down a high round composite group "shifting zero" is often just the real accuracy of a rifle being observed over a larger sample size (assuming your meaning 0.25-0.5 moa shifts) gimp threads are a decent example of this. When I sighted in prior to the Shoot a few weeks ago if I'd zeroed of the forst 5 I'd have been high 0.2mils and left 0.2 mils at 10 shots with 1 "flyer" I'd have been high 0.2 and left 0.1. That's the most extreme I've seen it with 10 I don't think most people's rifles cone of fire is as good as they think (not that it really matters in most cases)

We should perhaps create a new thread, it's not really an A-tec discussion. "My alock is so tight I've had to break it free with the vice before" how does that work? the alock is inside the suppressor quite deep how do you get a vice in there? or do you mean you had to secure your suppressor in a vice to unscrew the barrel?

It happened few years ago during second session at the range. I got it tight during first session but then it came loose on the barrel and got stuck in the suppressor. I had to use red loctite on the barrel muzzle thread, wait for it to dry to then manage to get the aloc free in the can. Then second session I didn't torqued it has hard to not repeat the experience, fired quite a few round this day without checking the can and boom.

Group impact shifting depending the torque applied on the aloc 100%. I'm not the first having reported that. Aloc been now secured inside with Loctite 638 and all good.

Originally Posted by Fisherman

Is the Atec worth the extra cost and barrel overhang?

I have the a-tec on my 7mm prc and the dpt on my 6.5 creedmoor so not a fair comparison. They both doing what they are supposed to do and on both the brake end cap is probably reducing the remaining recoil by a third of what’s left vs can without.

Originally Posted by Fisherman

Is the Atec worth the extra cost and barrel overhang?

You can't really compare the dpt two the atec there on completely different levels of product quality and sound suppresson.
Both have there supporters

Sent from my SM-S916B using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by BRADS

You can't really compare the dpt two the atec there on completely different levels of product quality and sound suppresson.
Both have there supporters

Sent from my SM-S916B using Tapatalk

So I've heard...I might have to dig deep.