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Hey guys, has anyone got these? How well do they work for separating really seized baffles?
Up until now, I've been able to tighten two hose clamps on the baffles and lever with a screwdriver and get them apart, however, now I have some baffles that still won't budge doing that.
Will the DPT tool do the trick?
Yes. From memory we haven't had any baffles that we haven't been able to disassemble with our suppressor clamps, even suppressors that have not been maintained for years and have had thousands of rounds through them. If really tight they may need a tap with a soft hammer on the clamp handle.Quote:
Originally Posted by GWH
Stilson wrench
Great, that's reassuring, thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by DPT
I have the DPT clamps for both MK 1 and MK 11. Do you need them?
Could I borrow them one night? My 223 suppressor has been bound up for a whileQuote:
Originally Posted by TeRei
I'd love to borrow the mk1 tools if possible, be good to get these apart so i can swap things around like i want too.Quote:
Originally Posted by TeRei
A pair of these should work! https://www.bunnings.co.nz/boa-strap...rench_p0197239
Have used these and they do the job:https://www.silverlinetools.com/en-G...delName=598531
just uhh for the record, what sort of maintance should people be doing?Quote:
Originally Posted by DPT
not for me, its for a mate.....yea, a mate that only uses them and then takes them off and puts them on the shelf
Yeah I originally started off with the best intentions, unscrewing each baffle and putting a light smear of rubber grease on the thread, so that they wouldn't seize, i obviously never kept it up on all of my suppressors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill999
Hey, see link for our instructions Suppressor maintenance instructions - DPT MachinistsQuote:
Originally Posted by Bill999
This is a snip from the instructions.
Your suppressor must be regularly maintained and cleaned. The inside of your rear chamber and both faces of the baffles must be sprayed with a thin coat of WD40 after every day out shooting (do this at the same time you clean your rifle) and also before long periods of storage. To do this, you will need to remove the baffles from the rear chamber and disassemble the baffle stack, failing to do this will void the extended warranty. In short, treat the suppressor as you would treat your rifle. Alloy baffles do wear gradually over time and are treated as a consumable, they are not covered by the extended warranty.
Cleaning of the modular suppressor can be done by unscrewing each module. Ensure that the thread surfaces are clean. Grease the O ring and threads with lithium grease before re-assembly. Don't over tighten the modules, firm is enough. Due to the fact that the front module and cap are loctited together, as well as the rear section on the over barrel versions, it can’t be undone. Cleaning will need to be done with a nylon barrel cleaning brush through the ports. WD40 should be used to clean the suppressor. Don’t use any harsh chemicals or water based products
apart from glueing the suppressor together with corrosion/carbon is there any risk of falure if one was not to clean a DPT?
im gunna be honest Iv never even thought about cleaning my suppressor
I was told with my first one dont bother and bring it back at 10,000 rounds and we will clean it for you for free (gunworks)
Yes there is a small risk. See bellow another snip from the instructions. This is what we have found works best for our products.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill999
During shooting, condensation is created inside the suppressor, containing amongst others ammonia (mixture of burnt powder and water). Failure to remove the suppressor within a reasonable period of time after shooting will cause rust to form in the gun barrel and could cause corrosion inside the suppressor. It is therefore practical to unscrew the suppressor after shooting on a range before packing the firearm for transport. When hunting, the suppressor must be removed after the end of the hunt. Store the suppressor so that air can flow freely through it and dry it out. If the suppressor is put away wet, a white powdery build-up will occur on the baffles. In this case spray WD40 over the baffles. When the suppressor is dry it is advantageous to spray WD40 into it. Avoid the build-up of moisture inside the suppressor as repeated exposure could lead to premature failure of the suppressor due to corrosion. If the suppressor is dropped into water, it must be fully dried before use.
Interesting as quite a few Americans do demo's involving the suppressor being dipped into water, muzzle down, then shot, to show a 'wet' level of sound moderation.Quote:
Originally Posted by DPT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pG_A...annel=hickok45
Another point I would raise, being a DPT MkII owner, is the possibility of someone not completely threading the baffles back together before use.
Assume this would result in a catastrophic failure @DPT ?
However I am more than happy with your product as it is probably the lightest and shortest overbarrel mod, very effective and ideal for the superlight bush setups.
I tried it and didnt notice any difference shooting it wet compaired to dryQuote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
it handeled it just fine
what I want to see more common is purging the oxygen out with co2 like what discrete ballistics done with their Popshot but more slick than the big side mounted slug gun canister they had
At the end of the day people do as they wish with a product, it doesn't mean its recommended by the manufacturer.Quote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
As far as I know, that issue has not come up. But that would be no different than someone not screwing their suppressor fully onto the muzzle,Quote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
My mate uses 50/50 ATF and Acetone to unbundle seized stuff. Reckons nothing beats it.
Another point I would raise, being a DPT MkII owner, is the possibility of someone not completely threading the baffles back together before use.
Assume this would result in a catastrophic failure @DPT ?
I did this :oh noes:, used to store my supressor after cleaning with baffles only screwed on half way at best. When I was firing the gun at paper I thought it sounded different but put it down to the earmuffs and a new firing position, shooting bedside the shed, and getting bounce of the corrugated iron. Saw my 5 shot group was only 4 shots and very very very average. After pondering that for a moment I then noticed my supressor was half screwed together and sporting some baffle strike on the end cap. Still works.....
I recently acquired a used suppressor with a build up of carbon to some degree ... I was amazed how well my ultrasonic case cleaner, cleaned the carbon out... took about an hour total.... hot, with a bit of dishwashing detergent and the carbon broke up, fell away or dissolved.
Re assembled with a light coat of synthetic grease on the threads and a light smear over the areas that were built up with carbon. It is now clean and good as new on the inside.
50/50 atf and diesel is what I use to unseaze engines that have ran dry on oilQuote:
Originally Posted by TeRei
cool to see its really similar