Thread: E-CAT Endorsement Requirements

Problems I have with E-cat security:


-It's going to be very very difficult for me to implement either of the required methods of securing the safe in my house. There's no underfloor access or concrete floors. I will have to literally rip up the floor.

-Is there actually any proof at all that the bigger heavier and vastly more expensive safe actually reduces theft?

Originally Posted by gimp

Problems I have with E-cat security:


-It's going to be very very difficult for me to implement either of the required methods of securing the safe in my house. There's no underfloor access or concrete floors. I will have to literally rip up the floor.

-Is there actually any proof at all that the bigger heavier and vastly more expensive safe actually reduces theft?

Gimp

The bastards that burgled me barely put a scratch on my safe trying to bust into it.

It's made from 12mm steel and weighs 370kgs.

Cheers
Pete

Originally Posted by P38

Gimp

The bastards that burgled me barely put a scratch on my safe trying to bust into it.

It's made from 12mm steel and weighs 370kgs.

Cheers
Pete

Do you believe that a standard A-cat safe would have been insufficient? I am genuinely curious to see any information on this because it's very easy to go "well bigger safe = better" but that may not really be the case at all. I am interested to know.

Originally Posted by gimp

Do you believe that a standard A-cat safe would have been insufficient? I am genuinely curious to see any information on this because it's very easy to go "well bigger safe = better" but that may not really be the case at all. I am interested to know.

Your right an A cat safe would have been sufficient in this case.
In fact they never discovered my A Cat safe, so didn't have a go at it.

It all depends on how determined you are, what tools you have with you and what skills you have.

With the right equipment it would take me 15 minutes to break in and clean out my E cat safe.

I accidently set the alarm off the other night ..... two patrol cars were on site within 3 minutes with the officers asking me who the Fu*k I was.

Cheers
Pete

Originally Posted by P38

It all depends on how determined you are, what tools you have with you and what skills you have.

This.

A cat would stop an opportunistic burglar, slow down a well planned one with the correct gear. E cat would slow down the well planned burglar even more, and if it slows them down it's (A) a good deterrent and (B) creates a higher opportunity of being caught due to noise and time. Obviously it also depends on where you live - someone with a grinder at 2am in the city is going to attract more attention than someone living inland from Gore.

The only way to stop any burglar is to store your firearms in a concrete vault, inside a bank, which lives underground in a mountain.

Originally Posted by gimp

Problems I have with E-cat security:


-It's going to be very very difficult for me to implement either of the required methods of securing the safe in my house. There's no underfloor access or concrete floors. I will have to literally rip up the floor.

-Is there actually any proof at all that the bigger heavier and vastly more expensive safe actually reduces theft?

Have to agree, there's situations where the guidelines just won't work. I also think there's a balance to be struck - having a safe bolted to the concrete pad in your detached garage may not be as "secure" as a safe in your wardrobe bolted to the floor. I'd have a chat to your local vetter - I know of instances where alternative arrangements have been acceptable. For example, huge steel plate bolted to the floor, safe welded or bolted permanently to the plate and floor (bolts were welded or loctite'd so they can't be undone).

The safe room requirements can sometimes be a little easier if you're handy - from memory there's an option where you replace the gib with mesh and construction ply, and install a secure door (steel plate/locks etc). Need not be a room - could be a wardrobe or something.

Originally Posted by murky

Have to agree, there's situations where the guidelines just won't work. I also think there's a balance to be struck - having a safe bolted to the concrete pad in your detached garage may not be as "secure" as a safe in your wardrobe bolted to the floor. I'd have a chat to your local vetter - I know of instances where alternative arrangements have been acceptable. For example, huge steel plate bolted to the floor, safe welded or bolted permanently to the plate and floor (bolts were welded or loctite'd so they can't be undone).

The safe room requirements can sometimes be a little easier if you're handy - from memory there's an option where you replace the gib with mesh and construction ply, and install a secure door (steel plate/locks etc). Need not be a room - could be a wardrobe or something.

That is what I was going to suggest. A safe room could be the way to go if you have a spare room available. Build a man cave while you are at it.