Quick update regarding the rifle;
Added an EGW 3-hole picatinny rail and epoxy bedded the rail for good measure. Did this on my other M7 and have got good results from it.
Copped some flak for 'ruining the lines' off a mate but truth be told, a picatinny rail is just like any other base and is much more secure and versatile.
I have a NECG picatinny ghost ring rear sight which I will probably use in conjunction with the original front sight. Have removed the original barrel mounted rear sight as seen above with @Mowhawk .308 's rifle above.
Tip is to use some 6/48 screws (same size as what the reciever is drilled for) to 'blank' these holes. These screws should be readily available from your LGS for free, seeing as they remove them from a new rifle when mounting scopes for people.
Anyway, found a Bushell Elite 4200 1.5-6x36 for £70 on FaceBay, a real steal! Also got a TriggerTech Primary and Sphur Hunting 1 inch rings (not so cheap).
Rifle as it looks now:
Tested 3 different makes of 100 grain ammo, RWS, GECO and PPU. Happily, the PPU (Highland) grouped tight and was more than sufficient for my needs.
Something to note was that my ears were ringing even with moulded in ear plugs (not electronic). Muzzle blast was noticable but not significant. Definately takes effort to shoot a light, unmoderated rifle accurately. Grip on stock and follow through on trigger are important.
A benefit of going 'mod-less' is the lack of fouling after shooting being noticably less. Also the balance of the rifle is supreme and I don't think a sling is required when a rifle is so light and easy to carry in hand.
To release the floorplate, use the end of a bullet to press the retaining latch of the floorplate to open it.
Sad Remington does not make them like they used to (M7 is no longer in production). It fed, fired, extracted and ejected perfectly.
Why would anyone buy a Tikka when you could have such a rifle?![]()
Bookmarks