Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Create Account now to join.
  • Login:

Welcome to the NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums.

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.

DPT Ammo Direct


User Tag List

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 28
Like Tree19Likes

Thread: Glass bedding pros and cons

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Mapua
    Posts
    149

    Glass bedding pros and cons

    Hi, thinking about getting my tikka T3x synthetic stock bedded, is it worth the money to do it? Wt are the pros and cons? The rifle shoot fairly well for a factory rifle producing 0.6 moa groups at 100 yrds. But thought it might improve at longer ranges. Thanks Sam

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Central Otago
    Posts
    312
    I bedded my tikka t3 when converted to 6.5 prc, jb weld is the stuff that worked best.
    I found that drilling small holes in the stock so the jb weld has something to hang onto when splitting after 5-6 hours of cure time.
    Worked great and shoots very well.

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Waikato
    Posts
    2,516
    Did myA7 so I don’t need to sight in again after disassembled for cleaning.the small set of devcon works well just don’t forget release agent.

  4. #4
    Bah, humbug ! Frogfeatures's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Auckland, until I can escape south....to Southland.
    Posts
    1,667
    Is it worth the money to do it ?
    Are you happy with how it shoots, now ?
    It will improve accuracy, but what level of accuracy are you aiming for ? ( sorry )
    I’ve devcon bedded 4-5 of my rifles, but to be honest, they shot pretty well after trigger work, anyway.
    You might be better developing a specific load, for the kind of hunting you intend to use it for.
    It’s already close to 1/2 MOA, stock.
    mimms2 likes this.
    He nui to ngaromanga, he iti to putanga.

    You depart with mighty boasts, but you come back having done little.
    Sounds like a typical hunting trip !

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Tasman
    Posts
    506
    Tikkas aren’t easy to bed as the floating lug makes it more complicated. You need to temporarily epoxy the lug to the recess in the base of the action ensuring that only the front of the lug touches the action and that the top of the lug isn’t touching the underside of the action. When you break the job the lug should remain in the stock. Devcon and Nathan Foster’s kits are good.

    It’s a learning curve and satisfying when it goes right, but it doesn’t always. If it goes wrong a new stock can be found for $100 or so, so the risk is minimal.
    Steve123 and Steelisreal like this.

  6. #6
    Caretaker stug's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Rolleston, Canterbury
    Posts
    5,050
    When doing the recoil lug on a tikka put 3 layers of masking tape on the top of the lug and about three layers on the back of the lug so you can “wedge” the lug in place in the action. This will give the clearance on the top of the lug and hold the front of the lug against the action. Then just bed it in.
    But if your rifle is shooting 0.6 moa I doubt you’ll gain any accuracy by bedding.
    Klhari likes this.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Wanganui
    Posts
    3,250
    I havnt had a single rifle bedded iv always had tikkas and sakos never found the need. Always shot gold as they were you can flog a dead horse but it wont jump . What do you personally want from it? Id spend my money behind the gun shooting animals might even become .5
    woods223 likes this.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    helensville nz
    Posts
    4,561
    Always worth bedding the only con is the slight waight increase from the glass which is very little
    Ive never seen a rifle get worse from a bedding job only improvement
    Ive seen already very accurate rifles not change much
    But its never in my experience been detrimental to accuracy if done right
    bing likes this.

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    BOP
    Posts
    4,025
    0.6 is pretty good accuracy, I would think bedding not needed.
    Bagheera, Lentil and 6x47 like this.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Mapua
    Posts
    149
    Cheers and thanks for your input its a. 308 and wt I ment by longer range is out to 600yrds so not realy that far in some people's books, not that I would shoot a deer at that range. So in short I can't realy loose by getting it done which I was going to pay to have it done but seems I can do it my self. But does it need don't probly not, personal choice.

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Waikato
    Posts
    2,093
    So you're wanting to improve your accuracy at 600yd but happy with 0.6 moa at 100yd ?

    I don't claim to be an expert at long range but people talk about several causes of poorer grouping further out:
    Using factory ammo
    Bullet quality and damaged tips
    Bullet instability (eg too heavy so not spinning fast enough) a long bullet is said to be less stable too.
    Muzzle velocity variation due to powder charger weight (less likely) or varying neck tension.
    Scope problem like using an uncalibrated ballistic reticle, inaccurate click values or cant.
    Wind, slope and altitude not allowed for.

    Bedding is usually done to improve zero retention from day to day.
    If wandering zero is your problem, talk with someone about free floating it. I hear that tikkas have two bumps at the tip of the foreend that the barrel rests on.
    Widening the barrel channel can reduce problems due to leaves and raindrops making contact between the barrel and stock.
    You don't rebed or glass bed around the action itself to do those two jobs.

  12. #12
    Gone But Not Forgotten
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Taupo
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by stug View Post
    When doing the recoil lug on a tikka put 3 layers of masking tape on the top of the lug and about three layers on the back of the lug so you can “wedge” the lug in place in the action. This will give the clearance on the top of the lug and hold the front of the lug against the action......
    ...to clarify the above, making sure the masking tape is only the back part of the lug that goes in the slot of the action i.e. not on the back of the lug that is epoxied in the stock. A little superglue on the masking tape will hold the lug in the action slot to stop it moving before the bedding compound sets up.

  13. #13
    Gone But Not Forgotten
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Taupo
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by Doon View Post
    I bedded my tikka t3 when converted to 6.5 prc, jb weld is the stuff that worked best.
    I found that drilling small holes in the stock so the jb weld has something to hang onto when splitting after 5-6 hours of cure time.
    Worked great and shoots very well.
    There's a lot of different epoxies that can be used as a bedding compound out there. Nearly all of them have some shrinkage over time. Belzona 1111 has zero shrinkage and is the best I've ever used and is like steel when set, but it's apparently about $350 a small tub. Black Marinetex is good too and easy to work with and is around $100 if you import it from the U.S.
    6x47 likes this.

  14. #14
    Member janleroux's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    441
    Quote Originally Posted by Samsamdjt View Post
    Hi, thinking about getting my tikka T3x synthetic stock bedded, is it worth the money to do it? Wt are the pros and cons? The rifle shoot fairly well for a factory rifle producing 0.6 moa groups at 100 yrds. But thought it might improve at longer ranges. Thanks Sam
    I always do a bedding job - even did one on my 22LR. For me it just takes one of the variables out of the equation if I wonder whether it is me or the rifle that is not shooting straight. The other advantage is that when you get water and cleaning solvents etc in between the action and stock, you know everything is kept in place and wont expand or shrink on you.

    The best stuff (in my opinion) to use is the bedding compound that Nathan Foster sells: https://www.ballisticstudies.com/sho...+Compound.html


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    What you see, is what you get!

  15. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Hawkes Bay
    Posts
    2,599
    Here's one done in Marinetex the other day. I'd just pulled the action (a Barnard S) and about to start on some cleanup of fine details, not that there were many.



    Marinetex is very hard and super stable with 0.01% shrinkage over a year. Many of the common ones can shrink by 3% which is NOT what you need

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. The 22/250, what do you zap with it, what are its pros and cons.
    By Max Headroom in forum Firearms, Optics and Accessories
    Replies: 57
    Last Post: 08-08-2019, 01:46 PM
  2. Illuminated Scope Reticle Pros and Cons
    By Remington 5R .300 Win Mag in forum Firearms, Optics and Accessories
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 18-07-2016, 11:02 AM
  3. 280AI - pros & cons?
    By Nickoli in forum Firearms, Optics and Accessories
    Replies: 35
    Last Post: 20-01-2016, 06:06 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Welcome to NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums! We see you're new here, or arn't logged in. Create an account, and Login for full access including our FREE BUY and SELL section Register NOW!!