Been using ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid for oiling moving parts on my rifles, what do you guys use?
For cleaning I use Breakfree.
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Been using ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid for oiling moving parts on my rifles, what do you guys use?
For cleaning I use Breakfree.
ive been using it for ages as well works well i usually use brake clean for cleaning metal parts
Much the same here, Brakeclean here to clean/degrease moving parts, Breakfree for bore cleaning.Quote:
Originally Posted by northdude
i use a combination for bore cleaning usually hoppes which seems to work pretty well on my rifles ive got boretech and some kind of outers solvent as well and some g96 copper solvent they seem to work ok the g96 works well but i think its ammonia based so need to be extra careful and get it all out to prevent it attracting moisture
breakfree is good
atf (like brake fluid) will absorb water
Never heard that about ATF, I assumed it was oil-based hence wouldn’t absorbe moisture.Quote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
You will need to dissolve some lanolin into the atf to make a good gun oil, lube and anti rust mix. wont need much.
is breakfree just a cleaner , or is it an oil also ?
some things like brake fluid will absorb water, another is methanol which is sometimes added to petrol to increase the octane level. now all good if you are burning thru a tank in a week or 4 etc but let it stand the ethanol will accumulate water into it and thats a big issue when you try to start your car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnwolf
remember things like glycerol which is an oil will absorb water too.
other oils will mix with water and result in emulsions, thats how mayonnaise is made after all.
atf and brake fluid are pretty volatile substances for mixing with other chemicals (enough said about that one)
anyways by all ways use it as a cleaner but as a final protectant i advise you shouldnt
Only Gull sell fuel with alcohol added in NZ but it is ethanol not methanol.Quote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
i use atf as a lube on bolt etc i use lanacote or something like that as a rust protectant
both will absorb water.Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
I use ballistol I find it great stuff, use carb cleaner to clean the bore of carbon build up and boretech for when the bores are grubby as. Really approve of ballistol as it's alkaline and reverses any acidity created by powder residue etc.
got some of that to
Use Breakfree for storage, not as a cleaner. Another great storage protector is Inox. Used if as protectant on a 4 wheeler on a west coast property for 10 years. Never went near it over winter, bike left there no worse than it arrived.
Likewise. Just use it on bolts, triggers etc, just for its lubricating properties and it doesn’t seem to ‘thicken’ when the frosts are about.Quote:
Originally Posted by northdude
Does anybody still use Young’s 303 cleaner any more?
Have a bottle of the "smelly" crap somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnwolf
breakfree CLPQuote:
Originally Posted by Jusepy
Cleaner
Lubricant
Preservative
always thought there is a marketing oppertunity here...picture Forest Gump and Bubba up to thier nuts in mud,under thier ponchos in the pouring rain trying to clean thier M4s...singing I want some break free...... to queens tune.
breakfree works better than oil on the pump action if it gets wet during opening weekend.....learnt that one the hard way the first year it rained...would jam with 3" shells till it got a drink of breakfree in the works.
Ive used 2 stroke oil and even rag whiped on dipstick of motor when caught out without anything better to use.
I've switched to Canola oil. Nice light flowing, no smell that I notice, and not growing another bladder cancer from using this.
Rapeseed oil was the basis of oils for ships' steam engines up and including WW2 time, it has the property that it adheres even to wet metal. Canola is the same as rapeseed oil, it just has the harsh stinky acidic stuff removed.
My hands also feel moisturised rather than attacked by a solvent. (-:
Ive used fully synthetic engine oil same stuff I fill the vehicles with for as long as I can remember and Brakeclean for bore and hard to get to places when cleaning
CRC soft seal. Been using this for quite a few years! Works really well. For example when I took my BLR to Stewart Island back in the 90s even though I kept it clean, I would see a thin layer of rust forming by the end of a days hunt in the rain.
This last time no such problem. Anyone who knows a BLR knowns how many finicky moving parts there are, in hard to reach places.
This stuff works a treat.
Use lanocote and CRC soft seal under the action and 'in stock" parts and used CRC long life as a barrel protectant and still able to shoot over it with bugger all POI change..
Learnt that from Nathan foster.
Given long enough 4 to 6 months canola will turn into a sticky jelly, it's the primary ingredient in oil based paints.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cordite
Or Sweets 7.62? Stinks something terrible also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnwolf
I am lazy now I use one of the foaming bore cleaners as it does the job with minimal fuss. Kero for cleaning shotguns and then CLP for storage.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RapeseedQuote:
Originally Posted by Cordite
Canola is a Rapeseed. I would suggest not the best for storage as it will break down, adsorb water and gum up.
Hmm, sure you don't mean linseed oil? That is what's in artists' oil paint and in old-fashioned window putty. I've used that to cover an old rusty railroad nail after I got the rust off. A week or two in the sunlight in the window sill and no longer tacky, just like any other varnish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Henry
et tu? I'm getting worried now, have to keep my eyes open for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
The golden rule is vegetable based oils for timber and mineral based oils for metal.
Personally I like break free CLP. Used it living on the coast in QLD, New Plymouth, and now SYDNEY for 30 plus years to stop rust. Only issue with it is it turns your stainless firearms a yellow shade due to build up. Can be cleaned off with a little shellite or other solvent in a rag.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicko
So it gums up a bit. Explains why it protects so well.
I use Corrosion-X for protecting the bore. Frog Lube on the exterior metalwork.
For carbon removal Boretech C4 is pretty good and for copper removal I've found K12 Copper Solvent to work better than most. Montana X-Treme Copper Killer is supposed to be the best currently available (unavailable in NZ as far as I know) apart from Sweets which is risky to use if you're the forgetful type. Bronze brushes are cleaned in white spirits after use. Prior to shooting after storage I patch out the Corrosion-X (which contains Teflon) and swab the bore with Kroil and then wipe it out. This is to help prevent a flyer on the first shot after cleaning. I use Kroil to remove any traces of copper solvent too if shooting straight after cleaning.
Breakfree CLP rated poorly in an exhaustive test on steel corrosion resistance done a few years back. I've still got some from over 30 years ago.
Here is the test referred to: Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range