Thread: Gun oil - ATF suitable.?

Originally Posted by northdude

i use atf as a lube on bolt etc i use lanacote or something like that as a rust protectant

Likewise. Just use it on bolts, triggers etc, just for its lubricating properties and it doesn’t seem to ‘thicken’ when the frosts are about.

Does anybody still use Young’s 303 cleaner any more?

Originally Posted by Finnwolf

Likewise. Just use it on bolts, triggers etc, just for its lubricating properties and it doesn’t seem to ‘thicken’ when the frosts are about.

Does anybody still use Young’s 303 cleaner any more?

Have a bottle of the "smelly" crap somewhere.

Originally Posted by Jusepy

is breakfree just a cleaner , or is it an oil also ?

breakfree CLP
Cleaner
Lubricant
Preservative

always thought there is a marketing oppertunity here...picture Forest Gump and Bubba up to thier nuts in mud,under thier ponchos in the pouring rain trying to clean thier M4s...singing I want some break free...... to queens tune.

breakfree works better than oil on the pump action if it gets wet during opening weekend.....learnt that one the hard way the first year it rained...would jam with 3" shells till it got a drink of breakfree in the works.
Ive used 2 stroke oil and even rag whiped on dipstick of motor when caught out without anything better to use.

I've switched to Canola oil. Nice light flowing, no smell that I notice, and not growing another bladder cancer from using this.

Rapeseed oil was the basis of oils for ships' steam engines up and including WW2 time, it has the property that it adheres even to wet metal. Canola is the same as rapeseed oil, it just has the harsh stinky acidic stuff removed.

My hands also feel moisturised rather than attacked by a solvent. (-:

Ive used fully synthetic engine oil same stuff I fill the vehicles with for as long as I can remember and Brakeclean for bore and hard to get to places when cleaning

CRC soft seal. Been using this for quite a few years! Works really well. For example when I took my BLR to Stewart Island back in the 90s even though I kept it clean, I would see a thin layer of rust forming by the end of a days hunt in the rain.
This last time no such problem. Anyone who knows a BLR knowns how many finicky moving parts there are, in hard to reach places.
This stuff works a treat.

Use lanocote and CRC soft seal under the action and 'in stock" parts and used CRC long life as a barrel protectant and still able to shoot over it with bugger all POI change..
Learnt that from Nathan foster.

Originally Posted by Cordite

I've switched to Canola oil. Nice light flowing, no smell that I notice, and not growing another bladder cancer from using this.

Rapeseed oil was the basis of oils for ships' steam engines up and including WW2 time, it has the property that it adheres even to wet metal. Canola is the same as rapeseed oil, it just has the harsh stinky acidic stuff removed.

My hands also feel moisturised rather than attacked by a solvent. (-:

Given long enough 4 to 6 months canola will turn into a sticky jelly, it's the primary ingredient in oil based paints.

Originally Posted by Finnwolf

Likewise. Just use it on bolts, triggers etc, just for its lubricating properties and it doesn’t seem to ‘thicken’ when the frosts are about.

Does anybody still use Young’s 303 cleaner any more?

Or Sweets 7.62? Stinks something terrible also.

I am lazy now I use one of the foaming bore cleaners as it does the job with minimal fuss. Kero for cleaning shotguns and then CLP for storage.

Originally Posted by Cordite

I've switched to Canola oil. Nice light flowing, no smell that I notice, and not growing another bladder cancer from using this.

Rapeseed oil was the basis of oils for ships' steam engines up and including WW2 time, it has the property that it adheres even to wet metal. Canola is the same as rapeseed oil, it just has the harsh stinky acidic stuff removed.

My hands also feel moisturised rather than attacked by a solvent. (-:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rapeseed

Canola is a Rapeseed. I would suggest not the best for storage as it will break down, adsorb water and gum up.

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Given long enough 4 to 6 months canola will turn into a sticky jelly, it's the primary ingredient in oil based paints.

Hmm, sure you don't mean linseed oil? That is what's in artists' oil paint and in old-fashioned window putty. I've used that to cover an old rusty railroad nail after I got the rust off. A week or two in the sunlight in the window sill and no longer tacky, just like any other varnish.

Originally Posted by 300CALMAN

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rapeseed

Canola is a Rapeseed. I would suggest not the best for storage as it will break down, adsorb water and gum up.

et tu? I'm getting worried now, have to keep my eyes open for that.

The golden rule is vegetable based oils for timber and mineral based oils for metal.

Personally I like break free CLP. Used it living on the coast in QLD, New Plymouth, and now SYDNEY for 30 plus years to stop rust. Only issue with it is it turns your stainless firearms a yellow shade due to build up. Can be cleaned off with a little shellite or other solvent in a rag.

Originally Posted by Dicko

The golden rule is vegetable based oils for timber and mineral based oils for metal.

Personally I like break free CLP. Used it living on the coast in QLD, New Plymouth, and now SYDNEY for 30 plus years to stop rust. Only issue with it is it turns your stainless firearms a yellow shade due to build up. Can be cleaned off with a little shellite or other solvent in a rag.

So it gums up a bit. Explains why it protects so well.

I use Corrosion-X for protecting the bore. Frog Lube on the exterior metalwork.

For carbon removal Boretech C4 is pretty good and for copper removal I've found K12 Copper Solvent to work better than most. Montana X-Treme Copper Killer is supposed to be the best currently available (unavailable in NZ as far as I know) apart from Sweets which is risky to use if you're the forgetful type. Bronze brushes are cleaned in white spirits after use. Prior to shooting after storage I patch out the Corrosion-X (which contains Teflon) and swab the bore with Kroil and then wipe it out. This is to help prevent a flyer on the first shot after cleaning. I use Kroil to remove any traces of copper solvent too if shooting straight after cleaning.

Breakfree CLP rated poorly in an exhaustive test on steel corrosion resistance done a few years back. I've still got some from over 30 years ago.

Here is the test referred to: Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range