Gunwork incl. Barrel threading in Auckland

Hi all, thought it would be worth sharing as most of what I was initially told about barrel threading was, “take it/send in to DPT” which would be a bit of a mission for me who lives in the Northern Auckland region.

I can confirm AB Reid Tool and Diemaking Engineering based at Unit 8C/89 Ellice Road, Wairau Valley, Auckland 0629 do threads on firearm barrels.

I dropped a rifle off in the morning and picked it up about 6 hours later. Alan (sorry not sure of spelling) seems to be a good man and keen to help. He is a firearms enthusiast and the price of the job was reasonable too.

Depending on what rifle you have and whether the shop needs to assemble and/or reassemble the rifle the price should be around the $100 to $150 mark.

Know the thread you want or need. Otherwise Alan can look at it and tell you what thread will work and you can shop afterward.

Hope this helps someone out.

Cheers


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Not saying this is true of your guys but I had a rifle cut and threaded by a Auckland GS, then some mths later got around to buying a can and took it to DPT. Immediately told me they would have to recut the thread, loosing another inch of barrel, because the shoulder was not suitable for their suppressors, and by implication, any decent suppressor. Thereafter when I got rifles threaded locally, I took one in done by DPT as a template. No issues thereafter and DPT themselves praised the job " done right". fwiw.

reloaders also has a good smith

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Originally Posted by Jhon

Not saying this is true of your guys but I had a rifle cut and threaded by a Auckland GS, then some mths later got around to buying a can and took it to DPT. Immediately told me they would have to recut the thread, loosing another inch of barrel, because the shoulder was not suitable for their suppressors, and by implication, any decent suppressor. Thereafter when I got rifles threaded locally, I took one in done by DPT as a template. No issues thereafter and DPT themselves praised the job " done right". fwiw.

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About to get a Kimber cut to a more ‘normal’ thread - do you mind posting a picture of how the shoulder should look in DPT’s view please?

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Originally Posted by LOC

About to get a Kimber cut to a more ‘normal’ thread - do you mind posting a picture of how the shoulder should look in DPT’s view please?

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I’d be keen to see as well. I was wondering myself how much shoulder there should be.


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I will also add that gun smiths know few more tricks to do with guns than a good engineer knows cheers


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You guys might want to have a look at his work
https://www.abreid.co.nz/page/gunsmithing/

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Originally Posted by buzzmann

I will also add that gun smiths know few more tricks to do with guns than a good engineer knows cheers


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what tricks would those be?

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Originally Posted by STC

what tricks would those be?

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I’m not a gunsmith so I don’t know but a few times I’ve had engineers do work and gun wouldn’t shoot take to the gunsmith and gun shooting mint again, have herd this lots of times aswell


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Originally Posted by buzzmann

I’m not a gunsmith so I don’t know but a few times I’ve had engineers do work and gun wouldn’t shoot take to the gunsmith and gun shooting mint again, have herd this lots of times aswell


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Ah okay and fair enough. You stated "good" engineers, which obviously must have been in error, given your experience with them...

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Originally Posted by buzzmann

I will also add that gun smiths know few more tricks to do with guns than a good engineer knows cheers


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Same in a lot of trades. We dont give away all our secrets

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Originally Posted by buzzmann

I’m not a gunsmith so I don’t know but a few times I’ve had engineers do work and gun wouldn’t shoot take to the gunsmith and gun shooting mint again, have herd this lots of times aswell


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Unfortuntley in nz the gun smiths often make fuck ups as well i guess no ones perfect.
Most suppressor manufactures have fucked more than a few thread jobs up just as well as the engineers some more than others.


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Originally Posted by LOC

About to get a Kimber cut to a more ‘normal’ thread - do you mind posting a picture of how the shoulder should look in DPT’s view please?

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This 14x1 thread was cut by DPT

Attachment 252936

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Originally Posted by Jhon

This 14x1 thread was cut by DPT

Attachment 252936

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Thank you mate

Just out of curious, is that kimber brand new?

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Originally Posted by Jhon

This 14x1 thread was cut by DPT

Attachment 252936

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I didn't undercut the threads on my rifles like this (Personal preference) so it's likely that is what @Jhon encountered. Any suppressors I've made have the internal thread recessed so it's not an issue but maybe DPT don't make theirs like that. In that case a DPT wouldn't fit my rifle as it'll foul on the thread before it hit the shoulder.

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Originally Posted by No good names left

I didn't undercut the threads on my rifles like this (Personal preference) so it's likely that is what @Jhon encountered. Any suppressors I've made have the internal thread recessed so it's not an issue but maybe DPT don't make theirs like that. In that case a DPT wouldn't fit my rifle as it'll foul on the thread before it hit the shoulder.

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All of our suppressors feature an internal thread relief of approximately 2.5mm in length. Occasionally, we encounter issues when muzzle threads lack a relief cut. These problems often arise due to the non-threaded section being excessively long or having a diameter larger than the threaded portion.

thread relief cuts are common and good practice in any engineering application requiring a shoulder to index against.

I always cut a relief on my threads, when I see one’s without it can suggest the thread has been cut with a die, which is a concern as they should be cut on the lathe. I always insist on having the actual suppressor and cut to achieve a good fit.

As for the shoulder, the minimum I will do is 0.5mm, that being the uncut diameter of barrel is 1mm more than the nominal diameter of the thread……. I prefer more if possible

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Originally Posted by LOC

About to get a Kimber cut to a more ‘normal’ thread - do you mind posting a picture of how the shoulder should look in DPT’s view please?

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Originally Posted by hakka_ranger

Just out of curious, is that kimber brand new?

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Forget to add the quote.

One common threading problem that most engineers are not aware of (and a few 'gunsmiths' as well) is that rifle bores are frequently not concentric with the outside of the barrel, and are seldom truely straight. It is necessary to ensure the bore is running true for the final few inches before the muzzle before threading and this is achieved by correct setting up in a 4-jaw chuck with a precision fitted rod that extends 100mm past the muzzle both internally and externally then checking and correcting the run-out at 10mm and 90mm in front of the muzzle with a dial gauge. Often wedges are needed at the back of the headstock bore to support eccentric barrels. Luckily, modern production methods make this a decreasing problem in quality rifles but it is still prevalent in some makes. Going one calibre up in the suppressor bore can eliminate most minor misalignment problems with no significant degrading of sound suppression.

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Originally Posted by hakka_ranger

Just out of curious, is that kimber brand new?

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vanished from Timaru if thats what you are thinking

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Originally Posted by gundoc

One common threading problem that most engineers are not aware of (and a few 'gunsmiths' as well) is that rifle bores are frequently not concentric with the outside of the barrel, and are seldom truely straight. It is necessary to ensure the bore is running true for the final few inches before the muzzle before threading and this is achieved by correct setting up in a 4-jaw chuck with a precision fitted rod that extends 100mm past the muzzle both internally and externally then checking and correcting the run-out at 10mm and 90mm in front of the muzzle with a dial gauge. Often wedges are needed at the back of the headstock bore to support eccentric barrels. Luckily, modern production methods make this a decreasing problem in quality rifles but it is still prevalent in some makes. Going one calibre up in the suppressor bore can eliminate most minor misalignment problems with no significant degrading of sound suppression.

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That's what I found when I started threading my own. rimfire barrels were all over the place, badly bent and the outside running out 0.4mm to the bore at the muzzle. When I checked my Tikkas however I found no bend or runout worth stressing about.
I did thread them setting off the last 100mm of bore as you did, however it was a real challenge getting the shaft 0-0 over the length.
Attachment 252981Attachment 252981

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Originally Posted by LOC

vanished from Timaru if thats what you are thinking

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Nay just curious where could we buy kimber nowadays since i'm keen on kimber for my next project :)