Thread: How to choose a rifle scope

Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

I think something important is to look for a scope that suits your action/rifle, I see a heap of setups with VX5/6 and NX8 (as an example only as these two stand out to me on a lot of setups) and when mounted on for example a Sako, the user has had to make a sacrifice as to how the scope sits on the rifle due to the relationship between the tube and location of the turrets and to a degree the objective bell, not being suitable, you then often see these setups running a rail as a "fix" where in my opinion a rail is just another part that isn't needed on a dedicated hunting rifle, adding extra weight, lifting the scope higher than necessary and having a detrimental affect on rifle balance, an extra junction to come loose, affecting the rifles ability to top load (and sometimes its ability to eject fired cases effectively) etc etc. In my opinion it's a well overlooked factor that should be right up at the top of the list.

Or just buy a correctly designed rail.

Sphur for Rem 700 and Recknagel/Era Tac for Howa. EGW for Rem Model 7's.

That being said, Tikka T3 dovetail is stronger than a screwed in rail (same specs as SakoTRG 22/42 dovetail).

@Ultimitsu thanks for setting up this thread. Quite a bit of work has gone into your post and its a good information resource now. Thats what the forum is about.

I’d like to suggest starting with your intended use: “what do you think you’ll use it for ?”
Allow 20% for stuff you didn't think of. Your favoured or available shooting will change with time, sometimes overnight. Eg tahr scope will be used at 5m. The compact bush scope will have to stretch out across the slips at times. Your all rounder might be pressed into service at 400m precision plate shoots.

So, your first scope should be an all rounder covering the 3-9x range.

1) zero ability.
2) waterproof and fog proof.
3) image clarity. I'd always take a better optical scope with lesser magnification over a optic that's got more magnification and lesser quality glass any day of the week.
4) scope is relative to the intended use. For instance don't put a 3-15 vx5 on a bush pig 308 when a 2-10 vx5 will suffice beautifully.
5) field of view.

That would be my top 5 so to speak.

Originally Posted by Rock river arms hunter

1) zero ability.
2) waterproof and fog proof.
3) image clarity. I'd always take a better optical scope with lesser magnification over a optic that's got more magnification and lesser quality glass any day of the week.
4) scope is relative to the intended use. For instance don't put a 3-15 vx5 on a bush pig 308 when a 2-10 vx5 will suffice beautifully.
5) field of view.

That would be my top 5 so to speak.

@Rock river arms hunter well said.

I've put a Swaro z6i 1-6 on one of the new fluted Bergara Extreme Hunters. The glass clarity is ultra clear and crisp all the way from 1x to 6x. I'm hoping to get to 350 yards with it though I must admit I have thought about getting slightly more magnification maybe a 1-8 or 1.7 -10. I'll see how it goes when I take it out.

Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

I think something important is to look for a scope that suits your action/rifle, I see a heap of setups with VX5/6 and NX8 (as an example only as these two stand out to me on a lot of setups) and when mounted on for example a Sako, the user has had to make a sacrifice as to how the scope sits on the rifle due to the relationship between the tube and location of the turrets and to a degree the objective bell, not being suitable, you then often see these setups running a rail as a "fix" where in my opinion a rail is just another part that isn't needed on a dedicated hunting rifle, adding extra weight, lifting the scope higher than necessary and having a detrimental affect on rifle balance, an extra junction to come loose, affecting the rifles ability to top load (and sometimes its ability to eject fired cases effectively) etc etc. In my opinion it's a well overlooked factor that should be right up at the top of the list.

The rail is unnecessary on Sakos, both 25 and 30 mm Optilocks have multiple height options, and here you can see both Optilock types in use

Top one is 85 rem mag finnlight with NX8 4-32 x 50

Bottom one is 75 rem mag hunter with NXS 5.5-22 x 50

I use both with 200yrd zero and they’re good to 1200yrds on Sika





VX5 fit well on the short actions with standard height Optilocks.

Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

I think something important is to look for a scope that suits your action/rifle, I see a heap of setups with VX5/6 and NX8 (as an example only as these two stand out to me on a lot of setups) and when mounted on for example a Sako, the user has had to make a sacrifice as to how the scope sits on the rifle due to the relationship between the tube and location of the turrets and to a degree the objective bell, not being suitable, you then often see these setups running a rail as a "fix" where in my opinion a rail is just another part that isn't needed on a dedicated hunting rifle, adding extra weight, lifting the scope higher than necessary and having a detrimental affect on rifle balance, an extra junction to come loose, affecting the rifles ability to top load (and sometimes its ability to eject fired cases effectively) etc etc. In my opinion it's a well overlooked factor that should be right up at the top of the list.

Yep. I put a $80 Leupold rail on my Bergara above just to get me going as I already had some 30mm low Steiner lightweight rings handy, once I know for sure what scope I am going to have on it long term I will probably get some Talley rings to suit.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

The rail is unnecessary on Sakos, both 25 and 30 mm Optilocks have multiple height options, and here you can see both Optilock types in use

Top one is 85 rem mag finnlight with NX8 4-32 x 50

Bottom one is 75 rem mag hunter with NXS 5.5-22 x 50

I use both with 200yrd zero and they’re good to 1200yrds on Sika


Attachment 186678


VX5 fit well on the short actions with standard height Optilocks.

@7mmsaum what does that Finnlight weigh all up mate, is it suppressed?

haven’t weighed it sorry

Both are unsuppressed and factory length barrels

Good post.
In Argentina there is a saying that you have to spend more on the scope than on the rifle. But it all depends on the money you have.
In general, riflescopes of German origin are excellent. Very good sharpness, especially at night. Rugged, they hold zero on high-recoil rifles.
In my case, when I used a Schmidt & Bender 6x42 scope, for night hunting a show like I don't take long shots served me wonderfully.
With regard to variable or fixed riflescopes, it depends on the distance one hunts.
Currently, I use the rifle's metal sights, remove the scope, and sell it.