Thread: How do these Warne Vertical Rings work?

I've no idea how these work as I've never used them before... but I found what I suspect are some vertical split Warne Rings.

However, there is no recoil bar (recoil key crossbar to stop the rings from moving forward under recoil).
There doesn't even seem to be a horizontal slot for a recoil key to fit on the bottom of the rings.

So how do these rings work without a recoil key crossbar?
Or do I have to/can I buy a couple of recoil keys from a shop?

My guess is they are made for a rifle with a dovetail that doesn't have the recoil slot.
They do a version that has a recoil lug on one side of the rear ring to fit BRNOs.

These are brilliant at crushing scope tubes

https://www.talleymanufacturing.com/...pe-ring-bases/

Yeah. All the Warnes I've seen have the cross bar. So as above, the are probably made for dovetail base.

Originally Posted by Roarless20

These are brilliant at crushing scope tubes

Yip killed a scope with this style. There is a specific way to tighten them up otherwise . . . .

Warne maximas I’m pretty sure I used them on my 85 finnlight with Burris adaptor bases I had a great run with them

pretty sure the one on the right is missing a piece.

Originally Posted by NewbieZAR

pretty sure the one on the right is missing a piece.

Yeah, it looks like it.
I thought perhaps a recoil crossbar/key might fit in that space...somehow.

I seem to remember dovetail receivers on centerfire Brnos, CZs, and Sako's. Sako dovetails are tapered wider at the forend so the rings can't move forward under recoil and the Brno and CZ use some recoil stop.

Generally though, dovetail mounts/receivers I have come across more with rimfires than centerfires.
Also rimfire dovetail integral grooves are spaced 9mm - 11mm apart and don't need recoil pins due to the .22 low recoil. But these rings I have seem to be made to fit 19mm dovetails which would be for centerfire rifles mostly.

I doubt it is common to see centerfire dovetail rings with no recoil pin or crossbar like these ones... as without them, the scope will move forward under recoil. That's why I seem to agree with @NewbieZAR that perhaps it is missing a piece.

Torque specs torque specs torque specs!

Originally Posted by Tommy

Torque specs torque specs torque specs!

A good torque wrench is your best mate with these rings.

Originally Posted by Bol Tackshin

A good torque wrench is your best mate with these rings.

Hell yeah, don't touch them without

The first secret is to not use them on your own scope.
The second secret is that if you have to install them on a rifle, you first tighten the bottom screws, making sure that the top ones are loose .once the bottom ones are very tight, gently tighten the top ones but not too much.

Used them on many many scopes, including lightweight thin alloy tube ones. As said, torque settings are vital on these and start at the bottom screws and work up. Having said that, with their sintered construction they do not need lapping and work very well. Do not have the issues that some rings do with pulling the scope down on one side when being tightened. Most people seem to think that the gaps in them need to be screwed in until they aren't a gap and that's a surefire way to mark a scope or crunch it nicely. The other point is they are more suited or work better with a rail or one piece base setup as there is no room for misalignment in the design.

All things considered, and for heavier kicking and lightweight rifles I'm happy with the greater rigidity of a bedded one piece rail mounting setup. In all the ones I've fitted up with them I've not marked a scope at all yet. Actually very impressed with them, and I'd recommend unless you need to adjust them or have to use two piece bases...

Edit - those are the version for Tikka receivers I think - the little oval gap has a key that fits in that has a round pin at one end of it to fit the Tikka receiver hole - you can reverse the key to adjust the ring forward and backwards etc etc.

Originally Posted by No.3

Edit - those are the version for Tikka receivers I think - the little oval gap has a key that fits in that has a round pin at one end of it to fit the Tikka receiver hole - you can reverse the key to adjust the ring forward and backwards etc etc.

Thanks for that #No.3 as you have solved the puzzle.
They are indeed Warne 4007476 Tikka rings, with the pin missing.