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I've no idea how these work as I've never used them before... but I found what I suspect are some vertical split Warne Rings.
However, there is no recoil bar (recoil key crossbar to stop the rings from moving forward under recoil).
There doesn't even seem to be a horizontal slot for a recoil key to fit on the bottom of the rings.
So how do these rings work without a recoil key crossbar?
Or do I have to/can I buy a couple of recoil keys from a shop?
Attachment 215801
My guess is they are made for a rifle with a dovetail that doesn't have the recoil slot.
They do a version that has a recoil lug on one side of the rear ring to fit BRNOs.
These are brilliant at crushing scope tubes :thumbsup:
Yeah. All the Warnes I've seen have the cross bar. So as above, the are probably made for dovetail base.
Yip killed a scope with this style. There is a specific way to tighten them up otherwise . . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by Roarless20
Warne maximas I’m pretty sure I used them on my 85 finnlight with Burris adaptor bases I had a great run with them
pretty sure the one on the right is missing a piece.
Yeah, it looks like it.Quote:
Originally Posted by NewbieZAR
I thought perhaps a recoil crossbar/key might fit in that space...somehow.
I seem to remember dovetail receivers on centerfire Brnos, CZs, and Sako's. Sako dovetails are tapered wider at the forend so the rings can't move forward under recoil and the Brno and CZ use some recoil stop.
Generally though, dovetail mounts/receivers I have come across more with rimfires than centerfires.
Also rimfire dovetail integral grooves are spaced 9mm - 11mm apart and don't need recoil pins due to the .22 low recoil. But these rings I have seem to be made to fit 19mm dovetails which would be for centerfire rifles mostly.
I doubt it is common to see centerfire dovetail rings with no recoil pin or crossbar like these ones... as without them, the scope will move forward under recoil. That's why I seem to agree with @NewbieZAR that perhaps it is missing a piece.
Torque specs torque specs torque specs!
A good torque wrench is your best mate with these rings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy
Hell yeah, don't touch them withoutQuote:
Originally Posted by Bol Tackshin
The first secret is to not use them on your own scope.
The second secret is that if you have to install them on a rifle, you first tighten the bottom screws, making sure that the top ones are loose .once the bottom ones are very tight, gently tighten the top ones but not too much.
Used them on many many scopes, including lightweight thin alloy tube ones. As said, torque settings are vital on these and start at the bottom screws and work up. Having said that, with their sintered construction they do not need lapping and work very well. Do not have the issues that some rings do with pulling the scope down on one side when being tightened. Most people seem to think that the gaps in them need to be screwed in until they aren't a gap and that's a surefire way to mark a scope or crunch it nicely. The other point is they are more suited or work better with a rail or one piece base setup as there is no room for misalignment in the design.
All things considered, and for heavier kicking and lightweight rifles I'm happy with the greater rigidity of a bedded one piece rail mounting setup. In all the ones I've fitted up with them I've not marked a scope at all yet. Actually very impressed with them, and I'd recommend unless you need to adjust them or have to use two piece bases...
Edit - those are the version for Tikka receivers I think - the little oval gap has a key that fits in that has a round pin at one end of it to fit the Tikka receiver hole - you can reverse the key to adjust the ring forward and backwards etc etc.
Thanks for that #No.3 as you have solved the puzzle. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
They are indeed Warne 4007476 Tikka rings, with the pin missing.
Attachment 215841
These are a ball ache. Not a huge fan I gotta say. Don't go leaving the bottom side too loose or the stupid inserts fall out of the bottom (which is crap if the whole idea is a QD system). Fiddly but once they're setup they don't slip at all which is good. QD levers work well
Once adjusted and locked on the recoil plate is captive on dovetails, can't go anywhere. Note this is the 4-screw maxima version I'm referring to no the 2-screw which uses the screw as the recoil pin. Now one thing I have found is people putting these things together without really understanding or maybe taking the time to think things through and tightening the rings down with the rings on the scope pulled fully rearwards (this is not just with Warne rings). That means the scope rings can creep forward under recoil, and when things start moving that's when the inner gorilla comes out to play (it must be too loose). The rifle recoils rearwards, so the scope needs to be push forwards to engage the recoil system before final tightening - otherwise the rings will never work. I've run into this many times with rifles assembled at big stores...Quote:
Originally Posted by T.FOYE
If the recoil lug is falling out on the quick detach versions something isn't right? I have a couple of scopes on QD Maxima rings and apart from the extra weight they perform the same as the permanently mounted units. I don't pop the scopes off much but when I do no issue with return to zero and the bits don't fall out. The ring version pictured cannot lose the lug either, as it is captured by the lower ring screws, so someone has removed it for some reason and probably lost it. I'm not sure if you can purchase a replacement for that bit but if you're handy would not be too hard to fabricate one.
As far as making 'balls ache' I can confirm I haven't experienced that at all, and compared to some setups which are utter bastards (lightweight weaver rings with a hook on one side of the ring cap and two screws on the other that pulls the scope around to one side as you tighten them) these are actually really quick and easy to set up and achieve a straight, level and correctly set up scope. With a rail good adjustment forwards and backwards, and as I said I've never had slippage with them and never marked a scope or had them come loose. They work and they are reliable and effective. Not the lightest, and not the most fancy for the magpies amongst us.
The other point is I've never ever had to lap one of these rings, and for the record the instructions suggest to never do it anyway. The ones I've encountered that have been lapped have all failed and needed to be replaced! Lapping rings is a practice that in my opinion is only required if there is a fault in the setup, and you need to correct it. Sometimes there isn't any other way around it - receiver bases holes not in alignment front to rear is a good one but one thing that should happen in lapping rings is mark the two sets with a punch dot on the front bits and two on the back ones for example so you know what came from where if you have to reassemble it and also what way around! I've written off about four setups with lapped rings that were handed to me in bits - it's not working make it go! Bit hard when you can't line anything up and it really makes people happy when you go out and spend their money on reliable basic stuff and take the time to set things up correctly to make it go. The last time I framed the stupidly expensive ringsets that had been written off by lapping and hung them on the wall of the outfit I was working at!
