Thread: How to remove paint without damage

@viper
I reckon that's what happened to my project. hardly any sign of a blueing anywhere except where it would be a PITA to get to. Even put some filler in the rear sight dovetail to smooth it out

Originally Posted by csmiffy

@viper
I reckon that's what happened to my project. hardly any sign of a blueing anywhere except where it would be a PITA to get to. Even put some filler in the rear sight dovetail to smooth it out

@csmiffy , hi mate, happy new year. Yeah it's always hard to know from a paint / surface prep what has gone on before you arrived. There are different ways to approach a surface in regards to paint and it's ability to key on.
Generally the harder the surface the harder it is for paint to key on so often the harder the surface the more aggressive the prep work to make it stick and stay.
There are some pretty aggressive products out there now in a can as people want results the first time round and bang for there buck
Little Miss Sugar Tits in the suburbs who want to paint her 10 yr old BBQ knows as much about paint systems as I do about time travel. The guy in the hardware shop that sold it to her is only a couple of steps above . ( hey he's on 17.50 an hour , why would he care )
Steels hard and it's smooth and paint flakes , chips and fails. Answer .... sanding / abrasives or use a an etch primer that eats into the steel and gets a grip for primers, top coats or what ever system your going to use.
Chances are by the sounds of it ( bog ) this past owner has gone hard on the prep work but generally nothing when it come to the paint ( not the bog ) is more than skin deep and you will be able to pull it back to a point where you re - blue it or cerokote it.

Originally Posted by viper

@csmiffy , hi mate, happy new year.you will be able to pull it back to a point where you re - blue it or cerokote it

@viper happy new year back.
already done. see bsa mode E in the project sections. cold blue job so not fantastic but ok