Thread: Hunting Rifle

Thanks @yeah_nah_missed I am happy to share my story if you get in touch @Farmer_John I went through same process last year

What to think about when checking out a rifle’s trigger.

Obviously, pull weight.
This should be between 500g and 2000g which is easiest to measure using a triiger pull guage.

Single or two stage ?
A two stage trigger has a light stage where the trigger moves back then a second stage thats firmer and discharges the gun.
The single stage stays in one place till the pressure is enough to fire it.
Either is OK but most people have a preference.

Creep
This is movement of the trigger before it fires. It makes it very difficult to shoot well.

Backlash
Movement after the gun fires.

If there is no creep or backlash thats really good. Sometimes people say “it breaks like an icicle”.

Trigger shape
Wide narrow textured like a piece if No 8 wire ?
Again most shooters have a preference.

Location
Can you reach it from the natural place your hand rests on the grip ?
Some like Carl Gustav are a long way out designed for Viking hands. Others have a palm swell that locates your hand exactly for each shot and need to be just right. Some have a long hand grip that you can put your hand where you want but of course it can vary from shot to shot if you’re not careful. Your trigger finger needs to be far enough forward that the tip is at right angles across the trigger pressing straight back and the finger is clear of the stock all along.

Expensive rifles and aftermarket triggers are usually adjustable for most of these but average ones often need expensive gunsmith work to get them just right for you.

To check the trigger you will need to dry fire it a few times. Ask the owner before you do this.
The answer should be Yes for a centrefire( possibly using a snap cap if you have one) and likely No for a rimfire as the firing pin whacks down on the edge of the chamber. There are 22 snap caps but they only last half a dozen clicks.

Always point the rifle in a safe direction when dry firing.

an empty case works in a pinch..

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

an empty case works in a pinch..

HELL NO !!!

Piss poor advice !!!

Buy Snap caps that are NOT brass coloured OR dry fire.

If Farmer John is ever going to come back from tailing the lambs he has got some reading to do.

Originally Posted by STC

HELL NO !!!

Piss poor advice !!!

Buy Snap caps that are NOT brass coloured OR dry fire.

What why?

Originally Posted by Kelton

What why?

Because somebody will confuse a once fired case with a live round and kill his neighbour.

Dry fire practice is only ever done with snap caps, that are of non-brass colour (most often red), or nothing at all, depending on the rifle model (most centrefire rifles are perfectly fine to dry fire)

Originally Posted by STC

Because somebody will confuse a once fired case with a live round and kill his neighbour.

Dry fire practice is only ever done with snap caps, that are of non-brass colour (most often red), or nothing at all, depending on the rifle model (most centrefire rifles are perfectly fine to dry fire)

If someone confuses a fired case with a live round then the dumbfuck shouldn’t be around firearms. There used to be plenty of snap caps around that simply had a piece off nylon or some plastic pressed into primer pocket of empty case.

Originally Posted by woods223

If someone confuses a fired case with a live round then the dumbfuck shouldn’t be around firearms. There used to be plenty of snap caps around that simply had a piece off nylon or some plastic pressed into primer pocket of empty case.

also, rule number ( I forget which) ALWAYS point your gun in a safe direction and lets not forget NEVER point your gun at ANYONE.....both of which preclude someone dying because an idiot didn't know the difference between a fired and live round.......then again, do idiots know the rules?

I'm far from experienced nor an expert . I have however just jumped on the hunting wagon within the last 12 months. ANd whilst the collective wisdom in here is a very awesome font of knowledge, I can't help but think that many of the greybeards have forgotten quite what it's like to be "new" to hunting, seeing as they were "new": around the time that Adam was getting refused service at the local.

So from one newbie to another, this is what has worked for me.
Firstly, I spent a few months limbering up with a scoped Rossi semi auto .22. Cheap as chips to buy (new ones go for around $400 with a scope, from memory) and cheeeeep as chips to run (ammo is about 33 cents a round) This is important because of the following:

If you're new to firearms, you need to get adept at handling them safely, shooting them safely and just generally being safe around them.
To achieve this, you'll want to spend plenty of time (as I did) shooting vermin (possums, rabbits, magpies etc) This gives you experience in managing your firearm, ensuring your shooting safely (what's around you, what else is in the direction your aiming (houses, vehicles, other people etc) have you got a good backstop? (this is the landscape that catches your round when you miss whatever you're trying to shoot(this happens a lot in the beginning btw))

Whilst shooting your .22 you can practice position, technique, breathing, trigger pull and everything else involved in being a proficient and safe shooter/hunter AND MOST IMPORTANTLY (in my humble opinion) you'll learn great shot placement (because ethical hunting is all about minimal suffering of the prey imo) and it'll be cheap (for comparison, my Franchi .243 costs 3 buck 60 per round. I couldn't afford to "learn the basics" at that rate) and dare I say it, an "accident" would be less catastrophic with a small calibre because you've got a much shorter effective range (that last is my own personal opinion which others may differ on)

Whilst you're practicing with your .22 number of things will occur. You'll get comfortable with what you're doing and won't have to think so much (you've still got to be sharp but your brain won't have to work so hard, this in turn allows you to relax a touch) you'll get comfortable with your gun, with handling it, reloading it and most importantly, you'll get comfortable shooting it (nothing stuffs up a well aimed shot quite like a flinch)

The payoff with all of the above (as I discovered) is that when you move onto a larger (deer killing) caliber (in my case the afore mentioned Franchi .243 Win Horizon, bolt action) you'll be comfortable with what you're doing and will be able to focus on getting to know how the new rifle shoots and then shooting some veni! Cos thats what we're here for right?

My experience has been that having followed the process above and got comfortable handling and shooting with the .22 , going out with the .243 I'm getting one wallaby 1 round out to just over 200m (the effective range on the Franchi with the 95g projectiles is a shade over 230 metres) I should add that bar a few clay pigeon shoots and an air rifle as a kid, my shooting experience was zero before I got started.

There's a lot to learn and the good buggers in here are a wealth of mostly useful information (and opinionated!) and if you ask questions....you'll get someone who will point you in the right direction.
My next is to join the Deerstalkers and then do the HUNTS course, it seems like a logical next step

Originally Posted by Zedrex

I'm far from experienced nor an expert . I have however just jumped on the hunting wagon within the last 12 months. ANd whilst the collective wisdom in here is a very awesome font of knowledge, I can't help but think that many of the greybeards have forgotten quite what it's like to be "new" to hunting, seeing as they were "new": around the time that Adam was getting refused service at the local.

So from one newbie to another, this is what has worked for me.
Firstly, I spent a few months limbering up with a scoped Rossi semi auto .22. Cheap as chips to buy (new ones go for around $400 with a scope, from memory) and cheeeeep as chips to run (ammo is about 33 cents a round) This is important because of the following:

If you're new to firearms, you need to get adept at handling them safely, shooting them safely and just generally being safe around them.
To achieve this, you'll want to spend plenty of time (as I did) shooting vermin (possums, rabbits, magpies etc) This gives you experience in managing your firearm, ensuring your shooting safely (what's around you, what else is in the direction your aiming (houses, vehicles, other people etc) have you got a good backstop? (this is the landscape that catches your round when you miss whatever you're trying to shoot(this happens a lot in the beginning btw))

Whilst shooting your .22 you can practice position, technique, breathing, trigger pull and everything else involved in being a proficient and safe shooter/hunter AND MOST IMPORTANTLY (in my humble opinion) you'll learn great shot placement (because ethical hunting is all about minimal suffering of the prey imo) and it'll be cheap (for comparison, my Franchi .243 costs 3 buck 60 per round. I couldn't afford to "learn the basics" at that rate) and dare I say it, an "accident" would be less catastrophic with a small calibre because you've got a much shorter effective range (that last is my own personal opinion which others may differ on)

Whilst you're practicing with your .22 number of things will occur. You'll get comfortable with what you're doing and won't have to think so much (you've still got to be sharp but your brain won't have to work so hard, this in turn allows you to relax a touch) you'll get comfortable with your gun, with handling it, reloading it and most importantly, you'll get comfortable shooting it (nothing stuffs up a well aimed shot quite like a flinch)

The payoff with all of the above (as I discovered) is that when you move onto a larger (deer killing) caliber (in my case the afore mentioned Franchi .243 Win Horizon, bolt action) you'll be comfortable with what you're doing and will be able to focus on getting to know how the new rifle shoots and then shooting some veni! Cos thats what we're here for right?

My experience has been that having followed the process above and got comfortable handling and shooting with the .22 , going out with the .243 I'm getting one wallaby 1 round out to just over 200m (the effective range on the Franchi with the 95g projectiles is a shade over 230 metres) I should add that bar a few clay pigeon shoots and an air rifle as a kid, my shooting experience was zero before I got started.

There's a lot to learn and the good buggers in here are a wealth of mostly useful information (and opinionated!) and if you ask questions....you'll get someone who will point you in the right direction.
My next is to join the Deerstalkers and then do the HUNTS course, it seems like a logical next step

You live in rhe right area to shoot a few thousand roos over there.Seen 4 on the side of the road in the long grass just pass Dobson the other night on sun set.A big buck and 3 small roos.

Originally Posted by woods223

If someone confuses a fired case with a live round then the dumbfuck shouldn’t be around firearms. There used to be plenty of snap caps around that simply had a piece off nylon or some plastic pressed into primer pocket of empty case.

Dumbfuckery starts with unsafe practices.

Putting brass into a chamber to practice certainly is.

In theory a real primer will soon get dented in and not cushion the firing pin. Supposedly, commercial snap caps have rubber or spring loaded “primers”.

Snap caps are also useful for practising feed, bolt running, reloading the mag etc which I do in the dark, by feel.

I make it a rule to never have both live ammo and the red snap caps out at the same time.

Originally Posted by Trout

You live in rhe right area to shoot a few thousand roos over there.Seen 4 on the side of the road in the long grass just pass Dobson the other night on sun set.A big buck and 3 small roos.

Most of those thoussnd wallabies are on private land so you will need to work on access. Trout’s not encouraging people to shoot by the road - its just an indication they are not uncommon where hunting pressure is low.