Thread: JW15 piece of shit

Yeah giday

Bought a supposedly brand new 'Outdoor Arms' JW15 in a Gun City $1 reserve auction and it seems I got what I paid for...
The crown is pretty munted and the bore doesn't look to be centered. Bolt looked like it'd already had some use so I'm wondering if it's a spare parts rifle?



Contrary to the positive posts about JW15 accuracy it patterns like a shotgun at 40 meters with Winchester 40gr subsonics, that's 8cm (3 inch) across with 5 shots.


I also noticed one of the cases had cracked, is that normal for a 22lr?


This is just a bit of a heads up for anyone buying one of these, I'd recommend getting a 2nd hand one that someone has already proven or at least view in person before buying a 'brand new' one. There's a lot of positive reviews for the JW15 so this one obviously doesn't fit the mould.

So is there any saving this rifle? I've already cut out the barrel channel to free float it, and grinded away half the bolt handle to fit a larger scope on so I don't think Gun City would take it back at this stage..
Cheers

get it re-crowned. no its not normal to split cases. what ammo ?

Originally Posted by gonetropo

get it re-crowned. no its not normal to split cases. what ammo ?

Winchester 40gr subsonic

Send it back for a refund.

recrown it as that looks awful and is possibly where it was held away from the chuck when the thread was cut.
next try CCI ammo. none of my 22's like winny ammo at all

Sorry about the split cases, really buggers up your reloading plans.

That an ugly crown, something just not right, even allowing for camera focus. Stick a wee bit of toilet paper just inside the barrel and repeat the shot, you'll get a better picture (especially if the toilet paper is unused).

I'd investigate how it does with a recrown, and try iron sights just to rule out gross scope problems, before cutting it down to optimum 16" barrel length.



You can also use a round head brass screw and some valve grinding paste (brass screws are hard to find items mind you).

You can see from that crown that when the brass case goes out the end of the barrel that's where its getting split. You need harder or smaller diameter brass imho

I've had two. First one was brand new and turned out to be a total piece of shit, it was returned for a refund.
Second one I got was a used rifle that hadn't done a lot of work. It shot well above it's price point , very accurate, not fussy on ammo and super reliable.
I only sold it when I needed to go a semi for spot lighting ( left hander, right hand bolt, bloody spotlight in the middle. )
The bore was also off centre and this is not uncommon but doesn't effect accuracy or didn't on mine.
The trick is to get an early model as they are of a better build quality , often they have a black painted end on the fore stock.

When they are bad they are crap but find a good one and they will go toe to toe with a CZ.

Originally Posted by viper

I've had two. First one was brand new and turned out to be a total piece of shit, it was returned for a refund.
Second one I got was a used rifle that hadn't done a lot of work. It shot well above it's price point , very accurate, not fussy on ammo and super reliable.
I only sold it when I needed to go a semi for spot lighting ( left hander, right hand bolt, bloody spotlight in the middle. )
The bore was also off centre and this is not uncommon but doesn't effect accuracy or didn't on mine.
The trick is to get an early model as they are of a better build quality , often they have a black painted end on the fore stock.

When they are bad they are crap but find a good one and they will go toe to toe with a CZ.

So with the earlier black tip models. I've just acquired one, should I feel bad about planning to cut it down to 15"?.

Originally Posted by Joe_90

So with the earlier black tip models. I've just acquired one, should I feel bad about planning to cut it down to 15"?.

No, its still a budget Chinese copy of a Brno.

Second hand ones probably better anyway because someone else has worn some of the rough edges off.

A mate bought a new JW15 maybe 5 or so years ago, accuracy was ok-ish but felt rough as guts. Last round from the mag would misfeed every time, safety was so stiff you thought it was going to snap off or break your thumb... a few hours amateur tinkering improved things a lot - bent and filed the mag lips slightly to change the angle and make it feed, sanded off off some sharp edges of the bolt so it slid along without feeling like it was gouging lines out of the action, whatever else looked nasty and easy to improve. Awful build quality for a brand new gun to need that much work to make it tolerable, but the design is fine.

After a few years of use everything smoothed out a bit more, its not too bad now.

I believe I’ve being lucky with mine. Bought it 2nd hand. Everything worn in n it just goes n goes.


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Most JWs shoot very well. We've had and modded about 20 and only one was a poor shooter. That rifle came from GC - looked like it was made up from bits from a reject bin. Outdoor Arms is their shop brand and it appears their problems may be continuing.

It is not hard to recrown it. Cordite's trick does the job well. Cut off a small piece of barrel with hacksaw. Then finish end to nice flat finish and polish edges. Then use the brass screw and grinding paste in drill until you have a very smooth, even crown. Test by poking cotton buds into bore to ensure no remaining sharp points. Blue it. This chop and recrown consistently helps us get 0.5" groups at 50m with the JWs.

I would not have floated that JW. Some 22s improve with floating, but oddly enough, many prefer barrel pressures and are best left alone. Experiment with front bedding screw pressures for accuracy. Try some Fiocchi HV blue packet - they seem to like it.

Cheers team I'll work my way through the suggestions, I didn't pay much for it so I'm happy to hack into it and see if we can get some improvements.
Intersting about the free float thing mudgripz, wonder if I can jam material of some sort between the barrel and stock to give it a pressure point again?

Originally Posted by Spoon

Cheers team I'll work my way through the suggestions, I didn't pay much for it so I'm happy to hack into it and see if we can get some improvements.
Intersting about the free float thing mudgripz, wonder if I can jam material of some sort between the barrel and stock to give it a pressure point again?

You can bed it which probably wouldn't hurt like a full barrel foam fill then bed all the way to the tip?
Definitely try crowning first then wrap tape around barrel to point load the stock to trial it.

Originally Posted by Spoon

Cheers team I'll work my way through the suggestions, I didn't pay much for it so I'm happy to hack into it and see if we can get some improvements.
Intersting about the free float thing mudgripz, wonder if I can jam material of some sort between the barrel and stock to give it a pressure point again?

For a pressure point use a piece of tyre tube and starting at the tip of the fore end slide it back while shooting groups to see if there is a sweet spot.
My Syn stocked full over barrel suppressor model was missing the middle bedding pillar, leaving the action completely unsupported in the centre and bent by screw pressure. I made one with the outer from a Dynabolt - has a split so it can be opened to grip the pillar recess