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Thread: Loctite question

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  1. #1
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    Loctite question

    Was thinking about adding some loctite to stop stuff coming loose. Anyone know if Loctite #243 is the right stuff for firearms ?

    Or ???

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Member Willie's Avatar
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    I hope it is as that's what I use!
    MB likes this.
    Sarcasm: lowest from of wit, highest form of intelligence.

  3. #3
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Yep 243 is the one I have always used not just on firearms but for general engineering as well. Medium strength and can be removed with tools. No heat required which is the case with the higher strength ones.
    Kscott likes this.

  4. #4
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
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    Is loctite calibre specific, I dont own a 243 so would it work on my 308?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Henry View Post
    Is loctite calibre specific, I dont own a 243 so would it work on my 308?
    Bit round the muzzle will tighten yr groups and loosen your bowels!
    Boom, cough,cough,cough

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Henry View Post
    Is loctite calibre specific, I dont own a 243 so would it work on my 308?
    it will but if you have a 7mm08 then vaseline will probably suit better
    Maca49 and northdude like this.
    #BallisticFists

  7. #7
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    Thanks all

  8. #8
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    OK, we use it a lot at work.
    For std screw locking and retaining the ability to remove the screws again, loctite 222.
    For med screw locking and able to remove but stuffs the screws or threaded base, use loctite 243.
    For full power screw locking and not a ffffing chance or removing easily, use loctite 263

    However, a trick in trade (but I wouldn't reccomend on a scope) you can remove 243 and 263 by heating the joint up with a hot air gun up to 150deg C. This will break the loctite.

    If using Stainless screws in Aluminum material, you need to add some loctite primer (7274) to the screws first.

  9. #9
    Terminator Products Kiwi Greg's Avatar
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    Don't put Loctite on ring screws, just bases etc.

    If it turns pear shaped scopes aren't that keen on heat
    Contact me for reloading components, brass, projectiles, powder, primers, etc

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg View Post
    Don't put Loctite on ring screws, just bases etc.

    If it turns pear shaped scopes aren't that keen on heat
    +1

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg View Post
    Don't put Loctite on ring screws, just bases etc.

    If it turns pear shaped scopes aren't that keen on heat
    +1 is easy to check is your scope ring screws are tight but hard to check is the bases are tight.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MassiveAttack View Post
    +1 is easy to check is your scope ring screws are tight but hard to check is the bases are tight.
    Yeh on one hunt to the Godley a guy in our team discovered his bases loose - bloody criminal. I use loctite on base screws, sometimes cross screws but never ever ring screws. Also, after I fit a scope and fire the rifle I recheck with ring screws with the torque wrench again. BTW if you do use loctite 243 on the ring screws nothing as dramatic as heating would be required to undo them just a very correctly fitting screwdriver, something that a lot of people obviously don't have when you look at the state of screws on second hand rifles in gun shops.
    10-Ring likes this.

  13. #13
    Member specweapon's Avatar
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    I used 243 on my gas block and hoped the heat wouldn't reduce it's strength, needn't have worried

 

 

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