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Terminator DPT


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  • 2 Post By Kiwi-Hunter
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Thread: maintenance

  1. #1
    Member Kiwi-Hunter's Avatar
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    maintenance

    While I look after the center fire suppressor, I've not give the rim fire any major over hall for sometime.
    The last time I couldn't undo a couple of baffles ! I think from memory I was unable to open them from day one.
    Tentman had a couple that needed a couple of straps, so I asked him to split the baffles tonight! So I could clean them.
    While I was at it I decided to use rubber grease on the o rings and anti cease on the threads, so next time I wouldn't have a battle to open them again.
    A bit of maintenance and care, I was surprised with the build up and its not all in the pictures. Also note the first baffle has an unusual lip, I gave it the hammer, now normal and the baffle ok as well.
    The thread is really a maintenance reminder. I'll do the same to the center fire DPT next time its stripped for maintenance.
    Winds dropped and maintenance finished, so I am on for the night shift.
    Hopefully.I post in what little pestie
    KH
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    Last edited by Kiwi-Hunter; 24-12-2019 at 12:18 AM.
    planenutz and Cordite like this.
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  2. #2
    Member Cordite's Avatar
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    That's a lot of lead dust, mainly from the lead styphnate primer compound. Don't bite your nails the next few days.
    An itch ... is ... a desire to scratch

  3. #3
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    as a mechanical sort of dude but never having owned a centerfires silencer I was wondering if the likes of copper kote/nickel anti-sieze goes on the threads?
    The rubber grease on the O-rings would be a good idea but if the threads are sealed then the O-rings wouldn't need it?

  4. #4
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by csmiffy View Post
    as a mechanical sort of dude but never having owned a centerfires silencer I was wondering if the likes of copper kote/nickel anti-sieze goes on the threads?
    The rubber grease on the O-rings would be a good idea but if the threads are sealed then the O-rings wouldn't need it?
    Copper and aluminium should never mix, use a metal free antizeize.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  5. #5
    Member Mathias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    Copper and aluminium should never mix, use a metal free antizeize.
    Absolutely correct....a bad mix.

  6. #6
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    I remember Robbie from gunworks telling me the carbon only makes them quieter and the chopper guys shoot them into the thousands before dropping them in to clean
    Is there any particular reason you clean them?
    Iv never bothered with any of mine

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    Copper and aluminium should never mix, use a metal free antizeize.
    Fair call. never thought of that.

  8. #8
    Member Kiwi-Hunter's Avatar
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    Interesting comments, the rubber grease may have done the complete job, it's a rim fire and I seemed to notice more sound this morning, but there was no wind and sound bouncing around, so couldn't say if there was a real difference.
    It don't think the nickel is going to make an impact on a rim fire, It's the first real clean its had and its had 3000 to 4000 and the build up was noticeable.
    I don't need bits of carbon floating around, still they are made to come apart for a reason other then replacement.
    KH
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  9. #9
    Member Beetroot's Avatar
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    There may be some truth to centerfire cans not needing to be cleaned, but that is definitely not the case with rimfire.

    DPT rimfire needs a good clean every 1000 shots or so, otherwise it becomes full up with carp and starts effecting accuracy and makes subsonic ammo start going supersonic.

    I had both my 22s start giving me accuracy issues at the same time, eventually worked out the dirty suppressor was the cause of my inaccuracy, fliers and change in POI.

  10. #10
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