Thread: Marlin 25N

Good afternoon,

I have a Marlin 25N and really like it but the bolt has never been overly quiet to cycle. A fair clunk when chambering a new round. I've tried googling but clearly not using the correct key words.
Does anyone know of a "fix" or improvement too this?

Cheers
Aaron

Marlin 25N a good bolt action 22. I would guess its 70s or 80s - what are the first 2 serial numbers? Was followed by the 925/980 models etc, then later the XT models and these are not as good. Yep some are Remlins.

Do what mimms suggests. You could also maybe disassemble bolt and use a slightly heavier grade oil on bolt/action. Not usually recommended. Marlin 25s, 925s, 880/882series, 980 etc not known to give many probs. Simple rifles with good barrels - reliable and surprisingly accurate. Some of them down to 0.3 groups at 50m - and all I've owned/benched capable of 0.4s. Keep it..

Originally Posted by mimms2

Um... a "loud" bolt to cycle??
Fair clunk?

Go slower.

Shoot 3000 rounds and see if it's still doing it.

(Alternatively dismantle the thing and polish all sliding surfaces, round off points, edges etc)

Doesn't matter how slow you go it clunks. Its probably had close on 10,000 rounds through it. So unsure how much more another 3,000 would do.
I'll try and pull the bolt apart and have a look at why. Will also try and film it over the weekend.
Cheers

Originally Posted by mudgripz

Marlin 25N a good bolt action 22. I would guess its 70s or 80s - what are the first 2 serial numbers? Was followed by the 925/980 models etc, then later the XT models and these are not as good. Yep some are Remlins.

Do what mimms suggests. You could also maybe disassemble bolt and use a slightly heavier grade oil on bolt/action. Not usually recommended. Marlin 25s, 925s, 880/882series, 980 etc not known to give many probs. Simple rifles with good barrels - reliable and surprisingly accurate. Some of them down to 0.3 groups at 50m - and all I've owned/benched capable of 0.4s. Keep it..

First 2 numbers are 97 so 2003 build from what i can find. . I brought it about 18 years ago. So about right.
It shoots well. Same as 795 i brought on your recommendation.

https://youtu.be/2JA6Ld2I9PA Unsure if that clip shows how loud the clunk is.
I am wonder if it is when the bolt rotates and this pin moves in and out of the divot.

Yes def 2003 - didn't know the 25s were still made then - mostly 925 designation. I've had the 925s with same bolt and no unusual noise. Should be readily fixable..

Probably pay to keep your thumb out of it in future.
But it is noisy isn't it.

Originally Posted by mudgripz

Yes def 2003 - didn't know the 25s were still made then - mostly 925 designation. I've had the 925s with same bolt and no unusual noise. Should be readily fixable..

It has 25N stamped on it and pretty sure the manual which i can't find is labelled 25N as well.

Originally Posted by erniec

Probably pay to keep your thumb out of it in future.
But it is noisy isn't it.

Yes you would have thought after 20+ years of swinging hammers the thumbs would learn to keep their distance.

Originally Posted by mimms2

Assume it's cock-on-opening so is this loudness when you lift the handle?

You could smooth/ round off the "hill" between the "valleys" as long as there's enough detent there to hold FP as you work bolt back (little valley). Doesn't need to be as much as in pic.
After 10k round though it should pretty well worn "to spec" though.

You could also weaken the mainspring. A little at a time or you might end up with light strikes.

The loudness is when you close or open the bolt. Right at the point when you've finished pushing forward and starting to lower the handle.
I've read they are a bit of a prick to disassemble to get the spring out. I haven't looked into it further. Will have another look today.

I would have thought after that many it would have worn in.

Cheers for your help.

@Ranal I think that’s pretty normal, I have the 882 version and it’s pretty clunky like yours. Other than that idiosyncrasy, they are accurate little shooters

I polished a bit more of the hill between the valleys. Maybe a very slight improvement. Will have another go today at removing a bit more.
While the bolt was pulled apart completely, degreased and brakleen'd everything. Will try a really light oil.
Tried to get a video but when closing the bolt, the pin at the very rear of the bolt seems to actually get lifted out of the little divot over the hill then drops back into the next valley. Also seems to rotate a small amount while doing this.
Average video but hard filming such a small piece.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbzypSDVbxo

Shouldn't do that i wouldnt have thought. Almost like someone has ground the sear back a mm and the firing pin drops before engaging. I doubt that has actually happened but there is something wrong in the bolt timing imo that needs close observation

It looks as if when the firing pin is drawn back it is binding/being caught on or by something . An internal inspection of in side the bolt may show it or mark/blue the firing pin to see if there are any drag marks ?. Removing metal from the rear of the bolt can cause ignition/firing issues .

Originally Posted by mimms2

Then it would be slam-firing, no?

No, what I meant and didn't explain properly is that the firing pin should be caught and held on the sear as the bolt rotates and lets the firing pin move forward in one motion all correctly timed. What looks to be happening is like the firing pin 'jumps' forward ( or back on opening) and slams the bolt down or up because of too much play somewhere ???