Thread: Marlin 25N

Good afternoon,

I have a Marlin 25N and really like it but the bolt has never been overly quiet to cycle. A fair clunk when chambering a new round. I've tried googling but clearly not using the correct key words.
Does anyone know of a "fix" or improvement too this?

Cheers
Aaron

Marlin 25N a good bolt action 22. I would guess its 70s or 80s - what are the first 2 serial numbers? Was followed by the 925/980 models etc, then later the XT models and these are not as good. Yep some are Remlins.

Do what mimms suggests. You could also maybe disassemble bolt and use a slightly heavier grade oil on bolt/action. Not usually recommended. Marlin 25s, 925s, 880/882series, 980 etc not known to give many probs. Simple rifles with good barrels - reliable and surprisingly accurate. Some of them down to 0.3 groups at 50m - and all I've owned/benched capable of 0.4s. Keep it..

Originally Posted by mudgripz

Marlin 25N a good bolt action 22. I would guess its 70s or 80s - what are the first 2 serial numbers? Was followed by the 925/980 models etc, then later the XT models and these are not as good. Yep some are Remlins.

Do what mimms suggests. You could also maybe disassemble bolt and use a slightly heavier grade oil on bolt/action. Not usually recommended. Marlin 25s, 925s, 880/882series, 980 etc not known to give many probs. Simple rifles with good barrels - reliable and surprisingly accurate. Some of them down to 0.3 groups at 50m - and all I've owned/benched capable of 0.4s. Keep it..

First 2 numbers are 97 so 2003 build from what i can find. . I brought it about 18 years ago. So about right.
It shoots well. Same as 795 i brought on your recommendation.

https://youtu.be/2JA6Ld2I9PA Unsure if that clip shows how loud the clunk is.
I am wonder if it is when the bolt rotates and this pin moves in and out of the divot.

Yes def 2003 - didn't know the 25s were still made then - mostly 925 designation. I've had the 925s with same bolt and no unusual noise. Should be readily fixable..

Originally Posted by mudgripz

Yes def 2003 - didn't know the 25s were still made then - mostly 925 designation. I've had the 925s with same bolt and no unusual noise. Should be readily fixable..

It has 25N stamped on it and pretty sure the manual which i can't find is labelled 25N as well.

Probably pay to keep your thumb out of it in future.
But it is noisy isn't it.

Originally Posted by erniec

Probably pay to keep your thumb out of it in future.
But it is noisy isn't it.

Yes you would have thought after 20+ years of swinging hammers the thumbs would learn to keep their distance.

@Ranal I think that’s pretty normal, I have the 882 version and it’s pretty clunky like yours. Other than that idiosyncrasy, they are accurate little shooters

I polished a bit more of the hill between the valleys. Maybe a very slight improvement. Will have another go today at removing a bit more.
While the bolt was pulled apart completely, degreased and brakleen'd everything. Will try a really light oil.
Tried to get a video but when closing the bolt, the pin at the very rear of the bolt seems to actually get lifted out of the little divot over the hill then drops back into the next valley. Also seems to rotate a small amount while doing this.
Average video but hard filming such a small piece.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbzypSDVbxo

Shouldn't do that i wouldnt have thought. Almost like someone has ground the sear back a mm and the firing pin drops before engaging. I doubt that has actually happened but there is something wrong in the bolt timing imo that needs close observation

It looks as if when the firing pin is drawn back it is binding/being caught on or by something . An internal inspection of in side the bolt may show it or mark/blue the firing pin to see if there are any drag marks ?. Removing metal from the rear of the bolt can cause ignition/firing issues .

When i brought the rifle ammo was cheap and brought a slab of 5,000 rounds of Highland ammo which back then shot amazingly well out of the rifle. That didn't last long and its certainly had a fair amount through it after that.

There is a spring held between 2 collars on the firing rod.(main bolt body firing pin is separate in front section) and my thought so far is that when you start camming the bolt down against the trigger/ sear? its actually twisting the collar ever so slightly against the spring pressure then its being flicked back around? But the collar is pinned to the rod so would explain the rear of the bolt twisting.

I will try and get some better photos.

I am not sure if removing any metal from the little hill would cause firing issues as it isn't held in that position when being fired.

Cheers for all of the help so far.

Here are some photos of the bolt apart. Now i've degreased and cleaned everything i can see some marks that im guessing are from the burr around the red warning piece. Ill file those smooth.
There also seems to be a couple little marks where the spring has dug into the collar which is normally locked in place by the small screw holding it all inside the main piece of the bolt. Very small i've tried to get the best photo possible.

The first photo shows the main bolt body section at top left. Does that section show any galling or binding marks, esp were a collar rotates ?