Thread: Marlin 795 Mods

Thanks to Gadetman for finding these instructions

http://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co.n...html#post40981

Vote For David: Marlin Model 60 Trigger Job

I'm a "visual" learner, so luckily found these vids on YouTube

Marlin 795 Trigger Job - YouTube

I'm using a fishing scale to measure trigger pull, might not be the most accurate...

In stock form I'm getting about 6 lb.

The aim is to lighten this, as well as try to get rid of some of the initial take-up distance.

Took the action apart, and got myself familiar with all the bits and pieces, not as complicated as I thought

Then replaced the trigger reset spring replacement with a lighter spring from a 3.5 floppy disk. This took about a bit less than 1 lb of the initial take-up pressure.

Next task is to remove the irritating magazine disconnect, watch video no 6 - with all the disassembly, re-assembly and testing, the mag disconnect has to go

When I bought mine I could lift the scoped and suppressed rifle by the trigger and really had to jerk the hand up to send the firing pin on it's way. Changing the trigger spring and softening a couple of the action springs has taken it down to 2-3lb. Cant really measure it as it's about 130km away on loan again. The thing I like about these Marlins is they're inexpensive, fairly accurate, very reliable and with just a little bit of time you can sort the American 'anti-lawsuit' trigger.

righto, some more work today.

got the whole action apart (and back together again !)

improved my measuring setup a bit, with the stock reset spring I am getting 5 lb consistently.

changing the reset spring takes off 12 oz

bending the sear spring (more closed) takes of around 1/2 lb

then cut a coil off the hammer spring, maybe 2-4 oz off, difficult to gauge.

honed the sear, also 2-4 oz, only took a very small amount off... nice crisp break

got some M3x5 grub screws, and also found my M3 taps. pretty much done with lightening for now, next job is the initial take-up

can someone pls try to explain in fairly simple terms why shortening the hammer spring reduced the trigger pull ? i get the part about the sear spring ,that makes sense to me, but my understanding is that the hammer spring provides energy for the hammer to move forward and then strike the firing pin. it only comes into effect after the sear disengages, so can't quite get why shortening it reduces the trigger pull, unless the extra pressure when it is compressed forces you to pull harder to disengage the sear ? on the right track here or am i completely missing something ?

All this stuff here seems the go as i have a 795 myself buuut i'm too scared to try this shit. I had a look at the action magazine disconect thingy and thort bout taking it off but ...i ran out of balls.....

Originally Posted by tiroatedson

All this stuff here seems the go as i have a 795 myself buuut i'm too scared to try this shit. I had a look at the action magazine disconect thingy and thort bout taking it off but ...i ran out of balls.....

Watch the vids, really not rocket science anyone in Welly region, I'm happy to help out.

Tiroatedson, worst case with the mag disconnect is you break off the tab. And that actually fixes the problem permanently... Only reason to bend the tab up halfway is so that it can be reversed....

The stiffy disk spring mod is also reversible if you keep the original spring.

Also possible to do the hammer spring without taking the action apart.

Originally Posted by ebf

can someone pls try to explain in fairly simple terms why shortening the hammer spring reduced the trigger pull ? i get the part about the sear spring ,that makes sense to me, but my understanding is that the hammer spring provides energy for the hammer to move forward and then strike the firing pin. it only comes into effect after the sear disengages, so can't quite get why shortening it reduces the trigger pull, unless the extra pressure when it is compressed forces you to pull harder to disengage the sear ? on the right track here or am i completely missing something ?

Mainly done in order to cycle lighter/subsonic loads but will naturally weaken over time anyway. I suppose that the hammer that this spring is pushing is released by the sear so has taken a slight load off it.

These mods are great, although I never bothered with hammer spring change. Got results that I was happy enough with without it. Quick and easy to make a fantastic improvement. I did however forget to locktite my grub screw when I did the trigger guard mod, first round out shooting hares and turkeys and it came in closer to the trigger, stop me shooting any more rounds haha

Niblet, what size grub did you use ?

Originally Posted by gadgetman

Mainly done in order to cycle lighter/subsonic loads but will naturally weaken over time anyway. I suppose that the hammer that this spring is pushing is released by the sear so has taken a slight load off it.

GM, are you not talking about the recoil spring ? The one on the rod behind the breech bolt ?

Originally Posted by ebf

GM, are you not talking about the recoil spring ? The one on the rod behind the breech bolt ?

No, the hammer spring (part 32). The bolt has to push this back again after firing in order to reset it. There is a reasonable bit of force in it.

M3 or M4. Didn't bother to putting one back in. Just use some finger control. Like gadgetman said it weakens over time. just put a thousand rounds through it. I had a few issues at first with subs jamming the case on the way out and failing to come back far enough to cycle next round, but with enough rounds down the tube its come right. Now we just need some higher capacity mags for em.

http://www.promagindustries.com/product-p/mar-a4.htm
Need some of these......

I'd be happy for a more reasonable price for the standard mags. Easy enough to refill a mag as walking.