Marlin 795 trigger help

Bought a 795 off the forum a while back and didn't get around to shooting it for quite a while. Seemed to have the odd misfire (CCI subs). Trigger was truly awful, inconsistent and heavy. Pulled it apart and cleaned it up. Watch some vids on modifying the marlin triggers - ended up cutting a coil off the hammer spring and gave the hammer/sear engagement a very brief hone. Seemed to lighten the trigger a bit, but also appears to have increased the frequency of misfires (anecdotal as I didn't note the frequency before and after the mod). Misfires are frequent enough to be very annoying (1-3 rounds per mag).

I'm time poor, and not inclined to put more work into learning how to fix it myself, so looking for local-ish (within few hrs of Auckland) help to resolve, or known source of a replacement (good) trigger kit.

Not expecting comp gun performance, just a reliable hunting/plinking beater with a reasonable trigger.

With the shorter spring maybe too short, and hammer strike is now too low for proper ignition?

Way back maybe 20 years ago, a bunch of us bought McCarbo trigger kits. At that time he was very reluctant to export but enough of us asked so he supplied.
It transformed my 795 from a horribly heavy trigger to a reasonably light trigger. Obviously not target grade still.
I never did anything with the main spring.

There was also owners around that time that used the spring that closed the gate on a floppy disk as a part trigger job. These were repoted to give some success.

I have only ever had loading/ejecting isuues on 3 occasions. Once using Fioccho subs. The second time it played up after a clean. Would not load or eject reliably. I thought it was a mag issue but after getting a new mag and no improvement I backtracked and found I had slightly bent the small arm that is part of the ejector mechanism. Once I straightend that it was back to good again. The third time I overlubed the bolt, despite Mike ( @mudgripz ) posting a warning that they need minimal lube. It went silly fairly soon but once I stripped and cleaned it it was away again.

https://www.mcarbo.com/store/p/27-Ma...pring-Kit.aspx

There are YouTube vids about how to do the floppy disk spring thing. Hardest bit would be finder a floppy these days

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dama dama

There are YouTube vids about how to do the floppy disk spring thing. Hardest bit would be finder a floppy these days

---

Ha ha threw a bunch out not that long ago.

Thanks guys, have seen the floppy disc method on youtube, and also found the mcarbo spring kits - just nothing in NZ, so would be up for an import permit and the hassle of getting it out of the US.

You might not need new spring set though it'd help. If needed, send Mcarbo an email - DeltaMike in Inver were trying to import some sets..

Don't cut any more off hammer spring - common cause of light striking. What precisely is key issue? Light striking causing fail to fire (FTF)?, or lower powered subs unable to push bolt back enough and causing fail to load consistently (FTL). Question - does it FTF with high velocity like CCI minimags or only subs? Here's a quick reference for troubleshooting Marlin semis I popped on Rimfirecentral 10-15 years ago:

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threa...iautos.507000/

PM sent - if needed call me on number given but check RFC reference first. And Zimmer's reminder about the wee ejection wire angle is a good one - esp if problem is fail to eject (FTE).

Cheers Mike

Yeah I've got issues like the OP has. Tried to turn it into a stealth semi shooter. Shoulda left it alone.

With the current fuckery around getting permits and having a trigger event it sirs in the safe. Multiple failures to fire per mag. Sub and supersonics.

Anything more than two moving parts is too complicated for. Using a smith last time caused all this fracas so have to wait for a happier piggy bank before I try another smith....

Sent from my SM-T225 using Tapatalk

The main issue with the 795 is that the sear-hammer interface is designed by lawyers. IE: the angle on the sear is such that the sear has to actually slightly over-cock the hammer as you pull the trigger for the sear to release the hammer. This is not a mechanically efficient thing to do, so it makes the trigger quite heavy. If you look closely at the trigger assembly when it's out of the gun you can see it happen. They also weren't known for great finish quality so you usually get a bit of a gravelly trigger pull as a bonus.
From very limited experience, this seems to be common across the 795 family that shares the trigger group.

Swapping a recoil spring can sort of solve this issue by putting less load on the sear-hammer interface, but you then also risk light primer strikes. I also suspect that a lighter hammer spring may result in the bolt slamming back harder at the back end of its travel more than it should because the bolt recoil spring is pretty light as it is, and Marlin incorporated a recoil buffer, so it has always been at least a bit of an issue. The hammer-spring assembly definitely robs the bolt of some momentum on recoil, just not sure how much.

The best solution I've found is very, very, very careful adjustment of the sear geometry using stones. Fixing the sear geometry massively reduced the trigger pull weight without making it dangerous. What you end up with is still very much a cheap trigger and is nowhere near that of a high quality gun, but you can get it to where it's a crisp consistent break.
Get it wrong and you end up with a permanently unusable gun, so for whoever is reading this on the internet if don't already know how to do this yourself, don't. Take it to a gunsmith, it'll be cheap for them to do it.

After doing this you could move on to lighter springs, but there would be diminishing returns at that point... you may be able to get the trigger pull weight down, but you'll probably start to run into issues with light primer strikes.