Thread: The model 7 in your life

Originally Posted by Tahr

Gibo, what program did you print your drop chart from? Ta

I emailed the table from my shooter ap on my phone at 5mph then again at 10.
Copied what i wanted into excel then cloured it all. Mucked around with the scale until it was the right size then printed it.
Happy to whip you up something if you wanted

Originally Posted by Gibo

I emailed the table from my shooter ap on my phone at 5mph then again at 10.
Copied what i wanted into excel then cloured it all. Mucked around with the scale until it was the right size then printed it.
Happy to whip you up something if you wanted

Phew. Way over my head Thats a kind offer.

PM inbound

To float barrel or not? I have a older model in blued sythentic in 7mm08. It gets 3 shot groups measuring 1" at 100yds, using 44.5gn 2209 and 139gn Sierra Pro Hunters. Have had similar groupings with 139gn SST's and 139gn Hornady spbt. Have been shooting off sand bags. It was in near new condition when I aquired it, I doubt it had shot more than 20 rounds or so. After 100 + from me, it still copper fouls badly. Should I lap the barrel? I wondering if I should float the barrel to try and squeeze out any more prescision.

Originally Posted by septic

To float barrel or not? I have a older model in blued sythentic in 7mm08. It gets 3 shot groups measuring 1" at 100yds, using 44.5gn 2209 and 139gn Sierra Pro Hunters. Have had similar groupings with 139gn SST's and 139gn Hornady spbt. Have been shooting off sand bags. It was in near new condition when I aquired it, I doubt it had shot more than 20 rounds or so. After 100 + from me, it still copper fouls badly. Should I lap the barrel? I wondering if I should float the barrel to try and squeeze out any more prescision.

I'd give it a good polish out with autosol first before doing anything else.

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Originally Posted by septic

To float barrel or not? I have a older model in blued sythentic in 7mm08. It gets 3 shot groups measuring 1" at 100yds, using 44.5gn 2209 and 139gn Sierra Pro Hunters. Have had similar groupings with 139gn SST's and 139gn Hornady spbt. Have been shooting off sand bags. It was in near new condition when I aquired it, I doubt it had shot more than 20 rounds or so. After 100 + from me, it still copper fouls badly. Should I lap the barrel? I wondering if I should float the barrel to try and squeeze out any more prescision.

Bro you should buy that laminate stock im selling on here. Your barrel will be free floating all the way and its bedded

@GWH process for doing that? I seen videos of it done with a parker hale jag with Kroil and autosol.

Originally Posted by septic

To float barrel or not? I have a older model in blued sythentic in 7mm08. It gets 3 shot groups measuring 1" at 100yds, using 44.5gn 2209 and 139gn Sierra Pro Hunters. Have had similar groupings with 139gn SST's and 139gn Hornady spbt. Have been shooting off sand bags. It was in near new condition when I aquired it, I doubt it had shot more than 20 rounds or so. After 100 + from me, it still copper fouls badly. Should I lap the barrel? I wondering if I should float the barrel to try and squeeze out any more prescision.

They have fore end pressure for a reason. Especially with original barrels.

I wouldn't float it unless buying a new chassis.

I did one with original stock and made it worse. Bedding it helped but once I bought a new stock it shot to its potential.

Others may have had a better experience. I am thinking of buying one for my son. He likes the blaser a bit much but I dont like sharing it.😆

He will have his FAL soon so need to get him his own rifle.

Love the model 7. Make a great first rifle I reckon.

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Originally Posted by septic

@GWH process for doing that? I seen videos of it done with a parker hale jag with Kroil and autosol.

I would give the barrel a good strip out with Gunslick foaming bore cleaner first, (maybe twice) to strip everything out of it. Then i use a 'loop' ended jag like this...



and put a piece of 4x2 cloth thru it, smear autosol on the cloth, then insert it into the bore from the breach end, and work it back and forth. I normally just concentrate on the 1st third of the barrel first, then do it again working on the middle third, then again on the last third. working it back and forth several times.

Be careful when working on the last third not to push right out the muzzle and pull back thru, dont want to risk damaging the crown.

Then once youve done that, give it a good clean again to strip out all the autosol residue. You should now be able to notice that you can push a patch thru the barrel with less resistance after polishing the bore.

This procedure has restored rifles to shooting well again after accuracy had gone off bigtime. It will also hopefully stop yours fouling so bad.

@GWH any kits mate you could recommend? At this stage cleaning a gun for me is as simple as running a bore snake through it

Originally Posted by R93

They have fore end pressure for a reason. Especially with original barrels.

I wouldn't float it unless buying a new chassis.

I did one with original stock and made it worse. Bedding it helped but once I bought a new stock it shot to its potential.

Others may have had a better experience. I am thinking of buying one for my son. He likes the blaser a bit much but I dont like sharing it.��

He will have his FAL soon so need to get him his own rifle.

Love the model 7. Make a great first rifle I reckon.

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And in GWH's case a 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th....

Originally Posted by Timmay

What's the rough cost of one landed @Uplandstalker

Think it way NZ$320 landed on the door step.

All done

Originally Posted by Uplandstalker

All done

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Looks great

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Fark that's nice. Did you paint it? What's the details?