Modifying a suppressor

Have a Waitaki 223 stainless can in 1/2x28 surplus to requirements, which got me thinking that it's just the right thread to go on my 9mm AR if only it had a bigger hole down the middle. Would it be possible to just stick it in the lathe and jam a 10mm bit down it, or is it a bit more complex than that? It's a one piece setup and I don't know how the baffles are affixed. Or should I just sell it and chuck the cash towards a proper one?

If you don't mind the real possibility of stuffing it! The baffles are held in by the roll crimp on the front so will spin instead of drill.

billy t james would have just shot a 9mm through it.

Using a lathe, put a nice tapered point on a piece of 10mm steel rod (longer than the can), put the base of the can over a hole in a piece of 4x2, oil the rod and drive it through the can from muzzle to base with a hammer. This method is self-centering, will open out the baffles and put a rearward facing lip that will help trap the gas.

I'm thinking about doing this with my ASE utra, just want to put a 1mm bigger diameter drill bit down it. Any one done it before?

My projectiles brush the last baffle slightly causing vertical stringing and I don't really want to chop and re-thread.

Well funny to have to report that when I had a Waitaki suppressor fitted at Mark's (Waitaki Engineering) shop, he just grabbed a .22 one off the shelf and ran a tool (don't know if it was a drill or reamer) through it and pronounced it 6.5

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Originally Posted by Savage1

I'm thinking about doing this with my ASE utra, just want to put a 1mm bigger diameter drill bit down it. Any one done it before?

My projectiles brush the last baffle slightly causing vertical stringing and I don't really want to chop and re-thread.

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I am pretty sure they are all welded construction so a 1mm larger drill in a lathe should do the trick.

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Originally Posted by gundoc

Using a lathe, put a nice tapered point on a piece of 10mm steel rod (longer than the can), put the base of the can over a hole in a piece of 4x2, oil the rod and drive it through the can from muzzle to base with a hammer. This method is self-centering, will open out the baffles and put a rearward facing lip that will help trap the gas.

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Excellent, sounds simple enough. Good from a 6mm hole to a 10mm hole though?

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Originally Posted by gundoc

Using a lathe, put a nice tapered point on a piece of 10mm steel rod (longer than the can), put the base of the can over a hole in a piece of 4x2, oil the rod and drive it through the can from muzzle to base with a hammer. This method is self-centering, will open out the baffles and put a rearward facing lip that will help trap the gas.

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bloody good idea

Aren't most 9mm barrels "1/2 × 36"

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Originally Posted by seano

Aren't most 9mm barrels "1/2 × 36"

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A lot are, this one isn't

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Originally Posted by Tommy

Excellent, sounds simple enough. Good from a 6mm hole to a 10mm hole though?

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You will probably find the existing hole closer to 7mm (6mm is a tad tight for a .22 suppressor). A nice long taper (about 40-50mm) well polished and plenty of oil will work fine.

mine went from 223 to 6.5 in the blink of a terminators eye. Works just like it did before too

Don't try that trick on an Mae, their first blast baffle is a solid piece of steel.

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Originally Posted by gundoc

A nice long taper (about 40-50mm) well polished and plenty of oil will work fine.

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You are talking about modifying a silencer right?
Just in case you've posted on the wrong forum
Just asking.

Right, before I made up a tapered mandrel etc (had found a bit of hard bar to be the mandrel) and reinvented the wheel, I thought I'd give Waitaki themselves a call. The guy on the other end of the phone said yeah sure no problem. Also, very cheap! About the same as the box of beers that it was going to cost to use the lathe!