6.5PRC or 7mmRM
6.5PRC or 7mmRM
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Nobody has mentioned the mighty 7mmWSM, I’m feeling left out But yeah, not the best option if you don’t reload. Even if you do it’s a pain to get brass.
I agree with @Jus re. 7mm being ideal ballistically, that’s the conclusion I came to as well making the same change from .270 to magnum. As you don’t reload, I’d make the choice based on availability of high performance ammo so you can find one your new rifle likes and keep getting it.
Bro, by your own admission (over and over and over again) this thread is really not in your wheel house, so maybe park your opinion for a change. Might be nice for one to run for a bit without your input.
Not saying you are not entitled to an opinion, or that it’s wrong. More, maybe read the room a bit and pass on this one. You know, for a change.
Also - 7prc for the win.
I think tahr is on the money. Horsepower was used to overcome poor BC for a long time. You don’t need to do that anymore with current projectiles.
Also also, rimmed cases look terrible.
I’d look at a 7RM or 300WSM, particularly if not reloading. If you are reloading then it opens up a lot more options as mentioned. 300WM is just a lot of gun. 7 PRC will be cracker if they come out in a Tikka from factory. Personally i’d go a suppressor as brakes can be a prick in a lot of hunting situations. I’m biased towards 7mm so I would say go that way as it’s the perfect balance of ballistics, recoil and terminal performance in my opinion. 30cal gets greater terminal performance but you get increased recoil by needing to push bigger pills with more powder in order to get good ballistics. If you want a genuine magnum then stay 7mm or 30cal, not a 6.5. Again, just my opinion (I own a 6.5 cal and do love it for what I use it for - meat gathering).
4 - 500 also isn’t hugely far. I read that you do want a more accurate rifle which makes a lot of sense. A 270 will do what you are wanting and so would a 7mm08 and 308 etc. The magnums will just do it better and with more confidence and authority so long as you are doing your part right though so again you are on the right track. Goodluck
I went with a 7mmRM as a second rifle. At the time my main gun was a 7mm08 and i wanted more hitting power for open country. The rem mag has been excellent but you also need good optics to go with it as well.
My son when he was 11 could shoot with it with a suppressor so not a lot of recoil.
Also have a look at your local where you buy your ammo from and see what stock is like and price. Then jump on line and have a look reloaders, gun city, broncos and see whats in stock and prices. may help you decide
Like any factory ammo now once you decide what your gun likes you need to work out how many rounds a year you will go though and have your own stock.(yes i know a lot of hunters cant go buy $600 or $800 worth of ammo at once)
I use 162sst its gone from $90 a box to $130 in 18 months.
Couldn’t help myself, if we’re doing ballistics.. this is the 7prc with a 20” barrel, 175 berger elete hunter starting out at 2800, and a 180 eld-m starting out at 2750. Moderate speed, I could get a bit more out of each. I don’t mean to knock on the 30 cal enthusiasts, but the 7mm just eats them up, especially since there is no dangerous game in nz..
+1 for 300WSM, very managable recoil for mine with a maniatis suppressor/brake combo. The biggest downside is factory ammo availability, there was only 1 shop in the region that had any, which sold out within a few days of the shipment arriving. Christchurch might hold the goods, there was plenty of selection in the Kaikoura H&F when I passed through a few weeks ago
I love my short barrelled 300wsm.
I’m of the thought that short and thick does the trick… long and thin goes too far in!
100% for 300wsm. I've been using one for out to 500 max- for 3 years and assuming I do my part- there are kāore walk aways using 178g eldx.
@Monk has been doing same for far longer and would ha e shot probably 2 to 300 deer with it I'm guessing.
Nothing walks away.
If you are going to shoot deer past point blank range you need to practise. Lots of practise.
The issue isn't drop - which is pretty much a constant and can easily be accounted for by your ballistics program, but wind. A wind meter will tell you what the wind is doing where you are, but only experience will tell you what is happening between you and the target. Used primers are the best teacher, once you have an accurate and measured load. With this in mind any rifle that puts a bullet 130 grains or heavier, with a BC of .55 or better and a velocity of 2800 fps or faster will do the job nicely. Unless you have a direct line into a bank factory ammo is going to be hellaciously expensive in the volumes you should be shooting, so you'll be handloading I'd expect. If so, and the twist in your barrel supports it, you have a huge range of potential projectiles - but always remember that while big bullets may appeal, recoil always degrades your ability to shoot accurately. I personally found a .280 Rem shooting 162 gr Amax to be about the perfect blend of recoil, range and energy on target - although I'm now shooting a 6.5 SAUM and can't fault it.
An accurate .22 shot at 100-150m can teach you a lot about the wind, and do it cheaper than the centrefire will. For me, a couple of seasons shooting F class with my hunting rifle was a really useful process. As a 30 year old getting handed your arse by 70 year old guys with iron sighted .308's crushes the ego, and improvements quickly followed.
I find the quickest way to get involvement from someone is say something incorrect.
people love proving each other wrong
threads without involvement die quiet deaths and noone learns anything
its pretty dog shit to tell someone directly on a forum that it would be better if they didnt contribute
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