Thread: Muzzle Break Efficiency

What type of MB is the most efficient .
I know that's like asking " How long is a piece of string " but is there one particular type or design that works the best ?
Are some louder than others ?
If my barrel is already threaded for a MB can I just buy and screw on another MB or should they really be fitted and checked at the time of threading to make sure everything is lined up and accurate ?

Ken

There is a lot of different brakes.
I have used a couple of different ones.

The Terminator breaks i have use have been the best so i wont bother with anything else, he can be found here Terminator Products

I've had all makes and types of brakes,
Kiwi Gregs ones are by far the best....
Some will disagree but I doubt they have tested them.
All brakes are loud so earmuffs are essential, so which brake is louder is really irrelevant.
Ported brakes are nasty as they chuck crap everywhere.
Yes you should get a smith two fit it for you.

Originally Posted by Ground Control

What type of MB is the most efficient .
I know that's like asking " How long is a piece of string " but is there one particular type or design that works the best ?
Are some louder than others ?
If my barrel is already threaded for a MB can I just buy and screw on another MB or should they really be fitted and checked at the time of threading to make sure everything is lined up and accurate ?

Ken

If someone has threaded your 7RemMag Blaser barrel it is probably fucked. Send it to me for disposal (I won't even charge you).

They are all a much of a muchness Ken. Brake design has not really progressed from WW2 arty apart from angles, number of baffles or ports.
A decent triple port brake without to many sharp angles and edges to gas wash, is all you need for a 7mm rem mag I reckon.
I have a couple off Abe and they are well made and priced. I have a spare triple port one I could send you for nada if you want it. I will bring it back here to Oz in a couple weeks.
It will fit a standard profile blaser barrel as long as it has not been threaded yet.

Originally Posted by R93

They are all a much of a muchness Ken. Brake design has not really progressed from WW2 arty apart from angles, number of baffles or ports.
A decent triple port brake without to many sharp angles and edges to gas wash, is all you need for a 7mm rem mag I reckon.
I have a couple off Abe and they are well made and priced. I have a spare triple port one I could send you for nada if you want it. I will bring it back here to Oz in a couple weeks.
It will fit a standard profile blaser barrel as long as it has not been threaded yet.

Much of muchness is so wrong it's funny.
The difference between a good brake and a bad brake is massive.
Solid advice I think not.

Its got a Brake on it already , I was just wondering if it was worth playing with a few different types and designs .
I assume as long as the thread is correct then it isn't a big deal to try other types ?
The one that's already there certainly works , and by the sound of it I probably wouldn't see or feel a difference if I changed it .
I just don't know much about them and whats good and whats bad .

Ken

An efficient angled brake will half the recoil of that brake in my opinion.
Have tested one.
It will also be way nicer to shoot if lying on dirt, leaves etc

Please explain how brake design has improved so much from what I have stated. Maybe you need to learn to assimilate information better, instead of pulling the shit out of what I have written.
Of course there are well and poorly designed brakes. That's is not what I said.
I have designed, fabricated and tested several types of muzzle brakes as part of my trade cert.
Spent over 3000hrs working on Artillery and DFSW weapons that incorporated brakes for the purpose of assisted recoil reduction. There was only directional flash suppression on small arms when I finished my apprenticeship.

My experience is that as long as its of a shark gill design its going to do something positive for recoil reduction. Brakes that are full of holes in my view dont do the job. You want your exiting gases to be hitting as much surface area of the brake as possible but in a way that directs the brake foward, cancelling out as much recoil as possible. All my humble view of course, but theres a reason why you see something like the 50bmg with the type of brake it has, because that design works the best.

Originally Posted by R93

Please explain how brake design has improved so much from what I have stated. Maybe you need to learn to assimilate information better, instead of pulling the shit out of what I have written.
Of course there are well and poorly designed brakes. That's is not what I said.
I have designed, fabricated and tested several types of muzzle brakes as part of my trade cert.
Spent over 3000hrs working on Artillery and DFSW weapons that incorporated brakes for the purpose of assisted recoil reduction. There was only directional flash suppression on small arms when I finished my apprenticeship.

Your first line......
"They are all much of a muchness."
I wasn't pulling shit that's what you've written.
To say there all much of a muchness makes me wonder what you did
In your 3000hrs.

Originally Posted by BRADS

Your first line......
"They are all much of a muchness."
I wasn't pulling shit that's what you've written.
To say there all much of a muchness makes me wonder what you did
In your 3000hrs.

Yes my choice of words could have been better I spose. But I would have thought my second line explains my direction and meaning.

I have owned 3 338 edges with 3 different brakes.
One being a side port with the holes at 90 degrees to the muzzle that hardly did a thing!

The other being a angled 5 port break made by true flight that at the time i thought was great until I tried my current brake...

The t3 terminator I currently have absolutely shits all over the true flight break. Despite the ports being very similar at a glance the difference in recoil reduction was massive!

If you told Nasa rocket nozzles all worked about the same you would find they would disagree

Here's the 101 on brakes...



Notes on my crap drawing - its the equal and opposite force (Newtons 1st law) that actually pulls the rifle away from the shooter.

kj

Originally Posted by Ground Control

Its got a Brake on it already , I was just wondering if it was worth playing with a few different types and designs .
I assume as long as the thread is correct then it isn't a big deal to try other types ?
The one that's already there certainly works , and by the sound of it I probably wouldn't see or feel a difference if I changed it .
I just don't know much about them and whats good and whats bad .

Ken

What are you trying to achieve? Reducing recoil becomes a game of ever diminishing returns to me and once it gets below a certain level then paying more money to reduce it further is just money down the drain. A 7mm remmag isnt going to need much. I went from a type B vias to a 3 port painkiller which was defiantly better at reducing recoil but made no real world difference to shooting and Iv now gone back to the vias. Maybe a different story on a huge cannon. If you just want to have the best for the sake of it then spend your money where you like.