Thread: Muzzle forward vs overbarrel suppressors

Is the muzzle can more stable regarding barrel harmonics ?

Do all overbarrel models touch the barrel or is there clearance so they're "floating" ?

Is the overbarrel part mostly a waste of time for suppressing noise ? A recent comparison made it look as if an overbarrel which stuck out further was more effective.
FishnHunt - New Zealands Famous Hunting and Fishing Forum Since 1995 - DPT vs Hardy vs Gunworks Suppressor Review

I'm thinking I dont have to have total suppression and could get something short and light that's just muzzle forward, by taking a couple of baffles off a DPT or A-Tec. Brilliant or dopey - what do you think ?

Overbarrel is louder than muzzle can for a can of the same weight. It's less volume efficient and the gas is flowing forwards not backwards. They can be shorter though (but probably louder). They prevent use of a Belleville washer or similar as a locking washer to prevent the suppressor coming loose. They can also "spring" the barrel if the bore is non-concentric to the OD of the barrel and they have a tight bushing. They also trap heat.

They're less likely to be damaged by a baffle strike if they come loose but the lack of ability to use a lock washer = more likely to come loose than a prudently installed muzzle can


All that said I've got a shiny new Roedale Delta Pro-X over barrel to try reduce OAL at cost of weight, supposedly same suppression

IMO gunworks and hardy aren't worth anything from comparison to Euro cans, never heard a DPT

Ive got a gunworks in .17HMR, had it on my CZ, but just made the barrel to long. Havent put it on my Anshultz for the same reason and dont really want to cut the barrel down. Decided I like the noise over everthing else

Originally Posted by gimp

Overbarrel is louder than muzzle can for a can of the same weight. It's less volume efficient and the gas is flowing forwards not backwards. They can be shorter though (but probably louder). They prevent use of a Belleville washer or similar as a locking washer to prevent the suppressor coming loose. They can also "spring" the barrel if the bore is non-concentric to the OD of the barrel and they have a tight bushing. They also trap heat.

They're less likely to be damaged by a baffle strike if they come loose but the lack of ability to use a lock washer = more likely to come loose than a prudently installed muzzle can


All that said I've got a shiny new Roedale Delta Pro-X over barrel to try reduce OAL at cost of weight, supposedly same suppression

Thanks GIMP. What caliber are you putting that Pro-X on ? It's a bit more grunty than what I was looking at. Sounds like you've got an OK relationship going now with Roedale ? I guess you'll try it out with some of the end baffles removed and let us know how it goes ?

Very interesting, the Belleville washer. I see in wikipedia it might have some useful properties for a suppressor like return to battery under recoil and tolerance of thermal expansion. Is there a problem with rocking from side to side as ther woudn't be contact across the whole face ? Also, Bellevilles mostly seem to have a big difference between inner and outer diameter to get the spring action. Do they come in skinny rings like 16/14mm you might need on a muzzle thread or do you put them on fat side out and they bear on some wider surface of the suppressor ?

I've used a couple of DPT muzzle forward cans on the 450 Bushmasters we have built.

Recently put a couple of extra baffles in a DPT can & it made quite a difference to subsonic sound suppression.

The 450 is quite hard to effectively suppress due to bore size.

I'm looking forward to trying some extra baffles in Scotts (SSRNZ) cans

Originally Posted by Bagheera

Thanks GIMP. What caliber are you putting that Pro-X on ? It's a bit more grunty than what I was looking at. Sounds like you've got an OK relationship going now with Roedale ? I guess you'll try it out with some of the end baffles removed and let us know how it goes ?

Very interesting, the Belleville washer. I see in wikipedia it might have some useful properties for a suppressor like return to battery under recoil and tolerance of thermal expansion. Is there a problem with rocking from side to side as ther woudn't be contact across the whole face ? Also, Bellevilles mostly seem to have a big difference between inner and outer diameter to get the spring action. Do they come in skinny rings like 16/14mm you might need on a muzzle thread or do you put them on fat side out and they bear on some wider surface of the suppressor ?

It's going on a 6.5x55, I'll use it as from factory (4x baffles I think). ~100mm muzzle forward.

Use belleville washer with the fat side out against the back of the can, I don't have a pic to show but it works well for a 50 cent solution, your can will never come loose with one.