Non zero lock turrets can be a bitch.

My Vx6 2-12 non zero locking turret is a bugger for sometimes moving off zero through rubbing etc, and I never know which way it has moved and by how much.

Ive come up with a way to work it out.
Once sighted in I reset the elevation to "0" and then wind the turret down to the bottom of its travel (when it stops) and counting the full turns plus final mins/clicks.

So now if it gets rubbed off zero and Im confused by which direction I just dial to the bottom and count up again. Ive written the revolutions and part revolutions on my ballistic table for easy reference.

My scope adjusts very accurately which is a bonus.

Good idea alright. We do similar in the manufacturing plant I work in for flow controls on pneumatic systems. Never thought of using it on a scope but I've also never owned a dialable scope.

Perfect

If you ever think you are a full turn out, or you return to zero and suspect your a full turn out just bore sight on a distant point/object

It’s really easy to see

Then rotate the scope turret whichever way to bring the crosshair and bore centre back into alignment

Try it one day, dial up one full turn and you will see how far out it looks when bore sighting

You can get your vx6 fitted with a new generation ZL turret by nzasia through your local agent. That's what I'm going to do after the roar. Mine is a cds with the zerostop mod but I prefer the ZL turrets as you can get 2 full revolutions instead of being limited to 1 and aldo the lock in place at zero unless you depress the button so far less likely to move in the first place.
Bruce I'm sure you already know this not telling you how to suck eggs at all mate, just putting thd info up for others that may not know.
I think the cost is about NZ$280 and 4-6 weeks turn around as it has to go to service agent in Australia.

I’ve done something similar with a couple of Swaros with ballistic turrets. They have zero stops but are limited to one turn. In order to use a 2 turn custom after mkt turret the zero stop has to be removed. That’s very straight forward task. By setting up the scope with a 20moa cant (rail or Burris Zee rings) it means my 200 yd zero is only 1/2 turn from bottom end. If bump it or get confused about the zero I simply crank it down to bottom then come up to the first zero point. Easy peasie

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Originally Posted by chainsaw

I’ve done something similar with a couple of Swaros with ballistic turrets. They have zero stops but are limited to one turn. In order to use a 2 turn custom after mkt turret the zero stop has to be removed. That’s very straight forward task. By setting up the scope with a 20moa cant (rail or Burris Zee rings) it means my 200 yd zero is only 1/2 turn from bottom end. If bump it or get confused about the zero I simply crank it down to bottom then come up to the first zero point. Easy peasie

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My Nikon Monarch was the same on my rem mag feirce before i sold it.....happy accident cause at my hunting ranges i definitely didn't need a canted rail.

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Originally Posted by dannyb

You can get your vx6 fitted with a new generation ZL turret by nzasia through your local agent. That's what I'm going to do after the roar. Mine is a cds with the zerostop mod but I prefer the ZL turrets as you can get 2 full revolutions instead of being limited to 1 and aldo the lock in place at zero unless you depress the button so far less likely to move in the first place.
Bruce I'm sure you already know this not telling you how to suck eggs at all mate, just putting thd info up for others that may not know.
I think the cost is about NZ$280 and 4-6 weeks turn around as it has to go to service agent in Australia.

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I just got quoted $450-500 but that is on an old vari x ll so new might be cheaper


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Send it to aussy for a 2 turn zero lock upgrade i done that to mine. So much better now

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Originally Posted by dannyb

You can get your vx6 fitted with a new generation ZL turret by nzasia through your local agent. That's what I'm going to do after the roar. Mine is a cds with the zerostop mod but I prefer the ZL turrets as you can get 2 full revolutions instead of being limited to 1 and aldo the lock in place at zero unless you depress the button so far less likely to move in the first place.
Bruce I'm sure you already know this not telling you how to suck eggs at all mate, just putting thd info up for others that may not know.
I think the cost is about NZ$280 and 4-6 weeks turn around as it has to go to service agent in Australia.

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Yip think mine about that non hd model

If you have quality rings and a quality scope like a Vortex, your windage will be right on the middle of your adjustment range :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Rated M for Magnum

If you have quality rings and a quality scope like a Vortex, your windage will be right on the middle of your adjustment range :thumbsup:

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:roll:

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Originally Posted by Rated M for Magnum

If you have quality rings and a quality scope like a Vortex, your windage will be right on the middle of your adjustment range :thumbsup:

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Talking dialing for elevation here.

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Originally Posted by Tahr

Talking dialing for elevation here.

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I was being cheeky :P but yeah it's frustrating with exposed turrets that don't lock, some good advice up there with the learning how far you are from bottoming out your dialling though, very good idea.

I've also done the bore sighting trick that @7mmsaum talks about, works better than you'd think.

This is 100% a design flaw by Leupold.

My Schmidt and Bender has never moved a single click yet is easy to dial, so the engineering can be done.

My VX3i often turns by brushing through bushes. Feeling a VX5 HD, it was just the same although it had a zero lock button. Sounds like the VX6 is the same too. Its an error in the design specification. It should require 4x the torque to move past each click and the cap needs to be lower, flat to the scope tube like 10mm at the most.

I put in the ball bearing (thanks NZ Asia) which limits movement in one direction. I hope that it will only move a few clicks each time and if its over say 200m I’ll be dialling and visually fix it anyway and if its less it will only be a few cm out.

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Originally Posted by Rated M for Magnum

If you have quality rings and a quality scope like a Vortex, your windage will be right on the middle of your adjustment range :thumbsup:

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Vortex + hunting = NO

Vortex + tramping = no

Vortex + birdwatching = no

Vortex + anything = no

Vortex = NO

Does the turret change height as you dial up/down on that model VX6? Is it possible to fit a shim under the turret so it cant go down more than 1/2 a turn past zero once sighted in?

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Originally Posted by jono7

Does the turret change height as you dial up/down on that model VX6? Is it possible to fit a shim under the turret so it cant go down more than 1/2 a turn past zero once sighted in?

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No it doesn't

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Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Vortex + hunting = NO

Vortex + tramping = no

Vortex + birdwatching = no

Vortex + anything = no

Vortex = NO

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So, what you are saying here is don't be sucked into the vortex?

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Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Vortex + hunting = NO

Vortex + tramping = no

Vortex + birdwatching = no

Vortex + anything = no

Vortex = NO

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:XD:

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Originally Posted by Tahr

No it doesn't

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have you fitted the 2mmBB (that limits you to one rotation)

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Originally Posted by Bill999

have you fitted the 2mmBB (that limits you to one rotation)

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No I haven't. Can I? Standard original VX6 CDS dial.

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Originally Posted by Tahr

No I haven't. Can I? Standard original VX6 CDS dial.

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My vx6 has a 2mm peg not a bb but same theory, so I would be supprised if you couldn't

whip the turret off and there should be a slightly higher tab where the zero is on the scope side and a small hole in the underside of the turret

a 2mm BB goes in there and stops it at zero but yea limits you to one rotation (which is roughly 600m on my vxr fitted to my 7mm 08)

Ill pop one in mine eventually but seeing as my 20moa rail just went on today Im not looking to limit myself to one turn at the moment

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Originally Posted by dannyb

My vx6 has a 2mm peg not a bb but same theory, so I would be supprised if you couldn't

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looking at the hole theres no reason it couldnt be a 2mm roll pin which will be a lot easier to remove

Iv been meaning to get me some from NZ asia (the leupold sorter outer) but have also been told you can just get a 2mmBB from your local engineering shop (mine were out yesterday but could easy have ordered them)

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Originally Posted by Bill999

whip the turret off and there should be a slightly higher tab where the zero is on the scope side and a small hole in the underside of the turret

a 2mm BB goes in there and stops it at zero but yea limits you to one rotation (which is roughly 600m on my vxr fitted to my 7mm 08)

Ill pop one in mine eventually but seeing as my 20moa rail just went on today Im not looking to limit myself to one turn at the moment

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The little ring with the tab can be "CAREFULLY" prised off and rotated if your turret doesn't line up with zero once the bb/peg is fitted to your turret. I had to do this to my vx34.5-14×40cds when I did the ball bearing zero stop mod. Feel free to ping me a message @Tahr if you have any questions. Pretty straight forward though once you see it :cool:

#9 birdshot is a fly shit over 2mm

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Originally Posted by Bagheera

This is 100% a design flaw by Leupold.

My Schmidt and Bender has never moved a single click yet is easy to dial, so the engineering can be done.

My VX3i often turns by brushing through bushes. Feeling a VX5 HD, it was just the same although it had a zero lock button. Sounds like the VX6 is the same too. Its an error in the design specification. It should require 4x the torque to move past each click and the cap needs to be lower, flat to the scope tube like 10mm at the most.

I put in the ball bearing (thanks NZ Asia) which limits movement in one direction. I hope that it will only move a few clicks each time and if its over say 200m I’ll be dialling and visually fix it anyway and if its less it will only be a few cm out.

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well yes and no........ if you were using scope purely on range,and werent handling it roughly as we hunters tend to do..it wouldnt matter a hoot. some of the exposed target turrets stick way out and/or have large wheel attached...... personally I dont understand why they dont put a turret cap OVER TOP of the tall turret therefore removing the chance of it moving....

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

well yes and no........ if you were using scope purely on range,and werent handling it roughly as we hunters tend to do..it wouldnt matter a hoot. some of the exposed target turrets stick way out and/or have large wheel attached...... personally I dont understand why they dont put a turret cap OVER TOP of the tall turret therefore removing the chance of it moving....

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They do

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