I have a walnut stocked rifle that's factory oiled, what product should I use to keep it looking good?
I emailed Beretta New Zealand asking this
I spent $4.35k on one of their products and they didn't even bother to reply.
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I have a walnut stocked rifle that's factory oiled, what product should I use to keep it looking good?
I emailed Beretta New Zealand asking this
I spent $4.35k on one of their products and they didn't even bother to reply.
Hi
you should try boiled linseed oil
Dem Bart, Its good shit for sako stocks.
SCherells oil is a great oil finish product. We have used it on the high spec. Sako Bavarians. If the wood is rather light in colour use the dark version to bring out the darker hues. The address is Scherells oil, Eaves Hill Co., 225 Tyntersfield Rd, Blenheim 7276. The cost is twenty dollars includes post. Cheers, Gary.
Cheers harry
I have some , just wasn't sure whetehr I should use it on this stock
Dem Bart
Frosty, I googled it and all I get is stock making tools
Is it a product I can buy locally?
I try get a photo, hang on...
Thanks Frosty
Cheers Gary, the stock is quite dark with a lot of figure
I use it on my Sako stocks, keeps it dark. Not sticky.
I would be careful about what I would apply to your stock given its value. As it already has a finish on it adding other finishing products may not be the best thing to do.
I have used Birchwood Casey Wax which contains carnauba, beeswax and silicon. It gives a good waterproof finish and doesn't go milky like some raw oils. It is applied to existing finishes in my case stocks I have done with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.
But, after saying all that I am not sure in all honesty I would recommend plastering it all over your nice stock.
Suggest you get advise from someone like Stock Doktor Services Kevin Gaskill on*07 825 8742
You could always just use wifey's Pledge and a duster I guess :)
Scherrell's Schaftol was what Beretta NZ told the gun shop I bought a '85 Bavarian from. The shop got it for me, it may have even come from Beretta NZ, but it was some 4-5 years ago. It's available in NZ anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by jakewire
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...a9a9d64817.jpg
Boiled linseed progressively diluted with turps over many coats is for cricket bats and restored furniture... don't over oil the stock was the advise given.
I've done a hand rubbed finish on an older oiled Sako stock with Tung oil diluted with turps, but it took months, and many coats.
B
seems to be how a lot of buissnesses work these days once youve given them your money you can fuk off as far as they are concerenedQuote:
Originally Posted by jakewire
Schrell or balsin stock oil - suspect they might be the same. Workshop innovation have the latter
You may find your Sako is finished with a polymerized oil similar to tru-oil that will have sealed it and traditional oils like boiled linseed will sit on top of the current finish, effectively doing nothing. Ask Sako directly what they finished the stock with
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Frosty
Just keep all this out of your checkering!
It will just clog it up otherwise
See if you can beat this finish.
Woodstocks Amazin' Stock Finish & photos - RimfireCentral.com Forums
gidday mate - I bought a new sako 85 in 270 W last year- I use what I've always used 1 part boiled linseed to 4 parts mineral turpentine
I find that this penetrates in and seems to keep the stock in ship- shape
I also took the rifle down and coated the barrel channel and inletting area with marine spar polyurethane
Cheers Frosty, have ordered some for my BavarianQuote:
Originally Posted by Frosty
Yep I followed that recipe, takes a few layers. But it comes up like a clear coated gun stock. The top rifles took about a week of fluffing with every night.
The bottom picture took about 1/2 an hr as I wanted to leave it non shiny
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Ive had great results with tru oil on an unfinished new stock. I have a Browning now and will strip the finish and re oil . Good to see guys getting back to timber.
Based on my experiences working as a surface coatings chemist for several years, Raw linseed or tung oil should be avoided, Boiled Linseed oil is fine for decorative pieces(those that never get wet) but will not seal wood against water. The finish will turn slightly milky when wet.
Spar varnish type products like true oil are linseed or tung oil that have been reacted with phenolic resin glycerine and acid, they are truly waterproof and probably the best for redoing a working rifle unless you have access to high end two pack factory sealers and finishes.
Attachment 61625
I had a make over done on this old Sako about 3yrs ago and it has sat in my volt ever since, when I held the rifle a few days ago I noticed the oil from my hands left finger prints all over the stock.
I think the stock has dried out perhaps and needs re-oiled, about 99% sure the guy used Boiled Linseed Oil.
Started reading up on oiling stocks but the more reading I done the more confused I got as everyone has a diffrent idea's (you only need to look here on this thread and see how everyone has a diffrent idea on what prouduct to use and how to apply it)
So what are my options? I was hoping I could just use some type of wax and a quick wipe over the wood to seal it or do I have to remove stock and spend hrs rubbing in layers of Linseed oil.
Correct, I have done one or two stocks over the years and no longer use linseed oil but use Danish oil without the shiny finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Henry
So with the above linked method, is the armorall acting as the phenolic resin glycerene? When you start doing the rubbing on it does go a little milky but that goes away as you keep rubbing, it seems pretty durable and i have had no water marks come through.
Armour all is from memory a carnuba wax based compound that may contain silicone for better water repellency. Wax finishes on their own only last a short time on timber before they wear off. The wood needs to be sealed first for them to last. Attempting to oil or varnish over wax is unsucessful as the wax prevents the finish from drying properly leaving a sticky mess.
