Thread: omark trigger adjustment

any one here familiar with the omark trigger i want to adjust my one ive googled it but the one in my rifle is diferent to what ive been able to find on the net theres 3 adjustment screws 2 on one side and one on the back the bottom one of the 2 seems to be the overtravel adjustment on the net it says its the pull weight adjustment my adjustment screws have external lock nuts whereas on the net they dont seem to have them cheers nd

mine have always been light as fuck target triggers and never needed adjusting as that's just the way a target rifle should be so cant help you there
if unsure take it to a smith mate

but if you really want to try it yourself just loosen or tighten each screw a half or full turn one by one and dry fire a few times and you'll soon find out what adjusts what

once adjusted give the rifle butt a few hard taps on the ground with the bolt closed if it dry fires there's not enough engagement and its unsafe

OK cheers I can do it just was wondering if I had something odd and if there was any particular order it should be adjusted other wise I'll do it and give it a good test before taking it out

I will dig out my old Omark trigger later and identify the various adjustment screws for you. If changing any settings as well as wacking the butt also slam closed the bolt as "brisk" as you can several times. If it survives that you should be good as. Sear engagement is usually adjusted by turning the screw with the bolt cocked until the cocking piece releases. Then adjust back say one turn. There is usually a small aperture for viewing the engagement thru - use a magnifying glass. Check amount of engagement b4 playing with it. In fact, unless there are problems with sear engagement and hideous amounts of creep I would leave it alone. The trigger pressure on Omarks is usually not that light, mainly because for NRA shooting they were limited to a min of 1kg and the spring set fitted was suitable for that range of pressure.

Be careful dry firing an Omark too many times. There is a shoulder on the firing pin assembly that can just touch the bolt head cross pin if no cartidge is in the chamber. Excessive dry firing can crack the cross pin.

Again, as long as you cannot induce the action to go off by slamming the bolt closed I would hesitate to touch the sear engagement.
Also, you cannot adjust the pressure screw too far off otherwise the trigger will fail to latch after being pulled and when the bolt is next closed.

Cheers I'm pretty sure mine looks different to that one all the adjustment screws stick out further than those ones and they all have lock nuts on them when I was trying it before the pressure screw in your PIC seemed to adjust the over travel I think the front of my housing is stepped as well

I'll try and get a PIC if I take it apart again

Originally Posted by northdude

Cheers I'm pretty sure mine looks different to that one all the adjustment screws stick out further than those ones and they all have lock nuts on them when I was trying it before the pressure screw in your PIC seemed to adjust the over travel I think the front of my housing is stepped as well

There was a later better Omark trigger just b4 Sportco disappeared. Cannot remember if it had locking nuts. Your trigger may be a Rem 700 or a NZ made Kiwi. If it is a Kiwi you have a superb trigger.

Yea its really nice just a bit heavy

its different to yours @zimmer

its different to yours @zimmerAttachment 52248