Printable View
Need to replace the rock-hard factory recoil pad on my 7WSM. I was going to do the jandal thing, but could possibly stretch to a Pachmayr Decelerator... are they much better, or should I save the coin for something else?
While recommendations of the best aftermarket pads out there would be well & good, I need a cheap & cheerful option.
The Italian Microcell that Gunshitty sell are about $75 and sure suck up recoil.
You need a disc sander or belt sander to fit them properly.
sorbothane is bloody good
I’ve used both and of course the decelerator is better !
What does the Jandal thing consist of these days ?
Prhaps a hard plastic plate and two thicknesses of jandal all glued together with silicone all clear or something ?
I dont think you can expect high levels of accuracy, due to the recoil pad being such a key component of the mechanical / harmonic aspect of the rifle. So for a long ranger it would be a temporary measure. You might find so eone who can give you an old pad theyve taken off or never used if you can hold on a month or two.
As noted by @6x47 its hard to get a very tidy professional shaping job doing it yourself. Ive fitted a few dcelerator ( basket weave face) for my guns but the rubber tends to bulge out and you have to use high revs on a sander with very gentle pressure to make it look nice plus might scratch your stick. I think gunsmiths have a special jig that gives a professional finish.
Here's the setup I use for relatively controlled pad sanding. Actually used it yesterday to do a 15mm spacer on a new target gun- the length of pull was just a tad short.. It's a ply disc driven off the headstock of the old wood lathe. Obviously don't use the cross slide for these sort of jobs.
Attachment 253613
As in aftermarket pads made from sorbothane (e.g. Kick-Eze), or the raw material? If the latter, where would you get it?Quote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
I was just thinking one layer, but could laminate up two. There's a hard plastic plate behind my current pad. I am going to have to destroy the rubber part to remove it as the screws won't budge, so may be able to salvage the plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bagheera
Your comment re. accuracy may have convinced me to spend the money - that's the point of the exercise, as I'm wanting to rule out recoil / flinch as a cause of current inaccuracy.
Put on the limbsaver.
Was told by a good bugger sadly passed that he would freeze the recoil pad. Makes it heap easier to buff to shape.
Haven't tried it though
Interesting idea
