Thread: Parallax Adjustment

School me on parallax adjustment, Is it required for a 4-14x40mm scope? Range for shooting is out to 700m.
Reason I'm asking is I am looking at 3 scopes: VX3i in the above mag with CDS $999, the other with side focus & CDS $1200 or a Zeiss in the same mag with side focus for $1700.

Yeah, if you are shooting to 700m, get an AO scope.

I would say yes for that distance. Dont ask me to get all technical and in depth about it coz I dont know enough to be a guru. Pretty sure scopes with fixed parallax are around 200yds I think.

Originally Posted by dogmatix

Yeah, if you are shooting to 700m, get an AO scope.

I have a vx3 LR model. I have a 4.5-14x40 LR (30mm tube, Side focus, CDS) on my SAUM but the side focus thing is a pain on a hunting rifle. You might find one S/H somewhere

No.
Been there done that not needed, if you have a nice consistent cheek weld you will be fine and even if not back your eye out till the edges darken and center your eye.

.................................................. .....................and too many knobs to twiddle on a hunting rifle scop is not a good thing I'm learning

normally most will say when you go over 12x , para is a good thing , RE the Zeiss , I would forget it , as unless its a fancy Tac model , Zeiss have very limited travel in elevation .

Originally Posted by ChrisF

normally most will say when you go over 12x , para is a good thing , RE the Zeiss , I would forget it , as unless its a fancy Tac model , Zeiss have very limited travel in elevation .

Plenty enough travel for 700. Mines got enough for 1500

Originally Posted by Gibo

Plenty enough travel for 700. Mines got enough for 1500

I was also going to point that out but I just love Chris's stories.

Originally Posted by ChrisF

normally most will say when you go over 12x , para is a good thing , RE the Zeiss , I would forget it , as unless its a fancy Tac model , Zeiss have very limited travel in elevation .

Only with zero stop employed. Still I can get to 750yrds with it on.

1500ish with it off.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by R93

Only with zero stop employed. Still I can get to 750yrds with it on.

1500ish with it off.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

True true, mines 16.5 moa with zero stop in

@Timmay, here is what I was taught by the old gent that worked on a couple of my scopes (retired instrument tech)...

First off, adjust the eyepiece so that the reticle is in sharp focus. Easiest way to do this is to set the rifle up to look at a nice uniform background (overcast sky works well). Make sure your cheek position is the same as it would be when you are shooting. Do not worry about focusing the picture, just focus the reticle.

Next, sort out the parallax. Aim the rifle at a target you can focus on. Do not worry about the numbers on the objective ring or side focus, those are just indicators. Get the target image in nice sharp focus. Then "wobble" your head up and down and sideways. If the target moves, you have a parallax error. Make fine adjustments to the objective ring or side focus knob until you do not get any movement.

Originally Posted by ebf

@Timmay, here is what I was taught by the old gent that worked on a couple of my scopes (retired instrument tech)...

First off, adjust the eyepiece so that the reticle is in sharp focus. Easiest way to do this is to set the rifle up to look at a nice uniform background (overcast sky works well). Make sure your cheek position is the same as it would be when you are shooting. Do not worry about focusing the picture, just focus the reticle.

Next, sort out the parallax. Aim the rifle at a target you can focus on. Do not worry about the numbers on the objective ring or side focus, those are just indicators. Get the target image in nice sharp focus. Then "wobble" your head up and down and sideways. If the target moves, you have a parallax error. Make fine adjustments to the objective ring or side focus knob until you do not get any movement.

He doesnt have parralax yet, hes asking if he needs it to 700

+1 for what ebf said. You have to be able to recognise parallax before you can adjust 4 it. SF is not a must but is very useful .... assuming u know what to look 4.

Good explanation ebf 🏿