Thread: Pard nv008

Hiya how good are they ? I’ve looked though other nz and been disappointed,anyone with honest feedback on them cheers


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pretty happy witht the sytong, only used it for snooping around, havent sighted it in yet

Just got shown the 007 nice little unit will update once I’ve seen how it goes cheers


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I have the earlier version of that I think you will be impressed.

Have a NV008. Works well, both day and night. Shooting at last light in day mode, it allows you to shoot longer than scopes with large objective lenses. It totally owned my Sightron SIII in this respect.

Also a very capable night scope. The inbuilt 850nm illuminator is up to the task for shooting to 200M. Allows for detection of even small animals such as rabbits out to 500m (eye reflection).

Scope is very light, easy to zero, records to a Micro SD card, has wifi so can output video to a tablet, phone etc.
Battery life with quality 18650 cells is very good.

Major bugbear is the minimum zoom of 6.5x, making scanning of large areas slow.

@buzzman Will be interesting to see how the new NV007 goes on a good scope. Most of what I have read is that they work best on low-end scopes without IR block coatings on the lenses.

To get the best out of the 007 it needs to go on a parallax ajustable scope.

The new Sytong HT-60 (competitor to the nv08) in 3-8 power lands in 2 weeks. This is ideal for shooters who find the 6.5 minimum power on the nv08 and HT-60 to high. Ideally suited to close range shooting or scanning.

I have two, one on a .17HMR (Gen1) for rabbits and one on a Creedmore (Gen2 with OLED screen) for deer on private land. They are excellent.

Advantages:
1/2 the weight of the Pulsar's
While they look 'different' they actually have good ergonomics once mounted
Battery life is excellent, and easy to replace because its a standard 18650 - no special battery.
I can get 4-6 hours out of a single battery hunting rabbits with the laser illuminator on 100% output, but turning the screen (and laser) off between shots while looking for the next candidate with the thermal bino's.
'Instant on' from cold or screen off mode is very quick. From the screen off mode it is instant. This means you can single push the power button to shut the screen off, then push it once and it will instantly turn on.
You can program the unit to start up from cold in a bunch of different modes - colour/black and white, laser on/laser off, laser power setting, magnification, etc. This makes it super easy to have it preset for opportunity shooting - oh look, a deer ..... hit power button and its good to go.
The laser illuminator (yes, it is a laser, not a 'torch') is switched on/off with the screen to conserve battery. This means you don't have to be turning it on/off separately.
The laser illuminator has plenty of boogie for any hunting out 100-150m. Beyond that, I wouldn't feel safe squeezing the trigger.

Disadvantages:
I find the magnification a bit high. Using thermal bino's set to 2.5x for scanning rabbits, then having to change over to 6x IR takes an extra couple of seconds to adjust to. 3-4 power would be ideal.
An 'issue' for all IR units, is that the objective lens needs to be focused on a regular basis depending on hunting distances. This is not the easiest thing to do if you are trying to hold the rifle up unsupported while using your non trigger hand to adjust the focus. Shooting off a bi-pod or tripod is no issue.
The Gen2 model with the OLED screen is a sales pitch only, and I actually prefer the non-OLED units as there is less (no) fishbowl effect. I would happily swap out an as new Gen1 for my Gen2 if anyone wants to swap??
IR wash out is an issue if you have ANY reflective objects in close proximity to your rifle eg, long grass, vehicle, ground contour, tree, etc. This also applies to any haze in the air eg smoke or fog. Not an issue for thermal.
They are not at their best in the middle of the day under very bright sunlight (high contrast), but sill perfectly usable. They are excellent in the dying light when normal optics has long gone, or in low light looking into shadow areas.

Hunting recommendations:
Anyone who has used thermal/IR for any reasonable duration of hunting will tell you that trying to use a rifle mounted thermal/IR is extremely tiresome. The very best solution is a thermal hand held and either a thermal or IR rifle scope, so keep that in mind when you are doing your budget - you will ultimately want a handheld.
Get a red led headlamp for safely walking around in the dark to get from shooting spot to shooting spot without spooking your game. I use a Aliexpress one that takes 18650 batteries and it works a treat.
I find with rabbits, where I shoot, they seem to feel safe when I have the red torch on up to about 90m. Closer than that and they will start to move off, For that reason, I use the .17HMR.
If you are hunting by walking around, I strongly recommend a standing height shooting tripod. I use a Primus trigger stick https://www.primos.com/shooting-stic.../PO-65815.html Yes, they are expensive, but they are light and instantly adjustable for the ground conditions and the rifle height required. If you are not using a handled for spotting, factor one of these into the cost of an IR scope because I can guarantee you will end up getting one.

Now you have a problem - you have to carry a rifle, a tripod, and a handheld, and they are all expensive pieces of kit that you (well I don't) what to get banged around.
My solution and current setup is as follows:
Set your rifle up with a front mount, barrel down sling system, like the good old days when you used to own AR's. This make it super easy to have your rifle slung across your front, your trigger stick tripod in your weak hand, and your thermal handheld in your strong hand.
With the front mount sling, it is super easy to stand the tripod up and place the rifle on the yoke without having to adjust your sling length.
For handheld thermal storage while shooting, I have one of my old (AR) mag dump pouches mounted on my belt on my strong hand side with a piece of sleeping mat foam cut to fit the bottom of the pouch to keep it open like a bucket. Super easy to flip the lens cap closed and drop it into the mag pouch (bucket) rather than trying to fiddle it into or out of its case. Its protected by the foam. Having it on your belt keeps it away from your rifle which is slung across your chest ie a chest bino harness wont work.

It is a very effective method of open ground pest control. In my experience, its not suitable for bush hunting ie don't go down this path if you are looking to use it for possums.

@hotbarrels observations are spot on! Ive only just started using a recently acquired NV008. And ive have found all of these things out too.

I was out with the Pard on my T1x 17hmr last night for about 2 hours shooting rabbits in an orchard.

I've been lying prone using a bipod (just like I normally do when daylight shooting with the hmr or the 17 Hornet, i like to make every shot count and therefore get the best rest possible, for me prone is the best. But being down close to the ground with the IR and on flat ground it does reduce the IR throw and therefore visibility distance i find, it wouldn't be a problem if you were on the top of a knob looking out over a field, etc. But on flat orchards raised shooting sticks would certainly be a big plus to get you higher off the ground.

A hand held scanner would also be a big plus, i dont have one yet, so im walking around spotting the rabbits initially with the Maxtoch torch (have tried both green and red cellophane over the torch with a rubber band and that does seem to not spook them as much as the brighter white light. I spot them, then flick the torch off and then get in behind the rifle with the Pard IR, seems to work pretty well, but some rabbits have been a little spooked by the torch already but i still normally end up getting them anyway, like this one last night.



Heres one i head shot at 111 yards

@GWH you are not wrong about using shooting sticks. I always carry a set when I'm out at night, and they get used a lot.
I have the ones that collapse into 3 parts, and can be stored in the side of a day pack. As such they are only suitable for sitting or kneeling shots. Probably not as fashionable as a tripod these days, but definitely do the trick in the long grass.
These ones

I personally use a 007 on Zeiss V4’s and Nightforce SHV plus meopta - demo videos are with them
Actually yet to see a scope that it doesn’t work with coatings wise - that seems to come from the UK
I can get 300m on dark nights without any issue - a cheap one probably goes further

Going to go quiet again as I don’t believe that dealers should be saying what they often do here

My concern is the 45mm eye relief for the Nv008 over the 6.5 creedmoor or 7mm08. Got hit by 270 with a bad scope when i was young and still paranoid about it.

Originally Posted by hotbarrels

I have two, one on a .17HMR (Gen1) for rabbits and one on a Creedmore (Gen2 with OLED screen) for deer on private land. They are excellent.

Advantages:
1/2 the weight of the Pulsar's
While they look 'different' they actually have good ergonomics once mounted
Battery life is excellent, and easy to replace because its a standard 18650 - no special battery.
I can get 4-6 hours out of a single battery hunting rabbits with the laser illuminator on 100% output, but turning the screen (and laser) off between shots while looking for the next candidate with the thermal bino's.
'Instant on' from cold or screen off mode is very quick. From the screen off mode it is instant. This means you can single push the power button to shut the screen off, then push it once and it will instantly turn on.
You can program the unit to start up from cold in a bunch of different modes - colour/black and white, laser on/laser off, laser power setting, magnification, etc. This makes it super easy to have it preset for opportunity shooting - oh look, a deer ..... hit power button and its good to go.
The laser illuminator (yes, it is a laser, not a 'torch') is switched on/off with the screen to conserve battery. This means you don't have to be turning it on/off separately.
The laser illuminator has plenty of boogie for any hunting out 100-150m. Beyond that, I wouldn't feel safe squeezing the trigger.

Disadvantages:
I find the magnification a bit high. Using thermal bino's set to 2.5x for scanning rabbits, then having to change over to 6x IR takes an extra couple of seconds to adjust to. 3-4 power would be ideal.
An 'issue' for all IR units, is that the objective lens needs to be focused on a regular basis depending on hunting distances. This is not the easiest thing to do if you are trying to hold the rifle up unsupported while using your non trigger hand to adjust the focus. Shooting off a bi-pod or tripod is no issue.
The Gen2 model with the OLED screen is a sales pitch only, and I actually prefer the non-OLED units as there is less (no) fishbowl effect. I would happily swap out an as new Gen1 for my Gen2 if anyone wants to swap??
IR wash out is an issue if you have ANY reflective objects in close proximity to your rifle eg, long grass, vehicle, ground contour, tree, etc. This also applies to any haze in the air eg smoke or fog. Not an issue for thermal.
They are not at their best in the middle of the day under very bright sunlight (high contrast), but sill perfectly usable. They are excellent in the dying light when normal optics has long gone, or in low light looking into shadow areas.

Hunting recommendations:
Anyone who has used thermal/IR for any reasonable duration of hunting will tell you that trying to use a rifle mounted thermal/IR is extremely tiresome. The very best solution is a thermal hand held and either a thermal or IR rifle scope, so keep that in mind when you are doing your budget - you will ultimately want a handheld.
Get a red led headlamp for safely walking around in the dark to get from shooting spot to shooting spot without spooking your game. I use a Aliexpress one that takes 18650 batteries and it works a treat.
I find with rabbits, where I shoot, they seem to feel safe when I have the red torch on up to about 90m. Closer than that and they will start to move off, For that reason, I use the .17HMR.
If you are hunting by walking around, I strongly recommend a standing height shooting tripod. I use a Primus trigger stick https://www.primos.com/shooting-stic.../PO-65815.html Yes, they are expensive, but they are light and instantly adjustable for the ground conditions and the rifle height required. If you are not using a handled for spotting, factor one of these into the cost of an IR scope because I can guarantee you will end up getting one.

Now you have a problem - you have to carry a rifle, a tripod, and a handheld, and they are all expensive pieces of kit that you (well I don't) what to get banged around.
My solution and current setup is as follows:
Set your rifle up with a front mount, barrel down sling system, like the good old days when you used to own AR's. This make it super easy to have your rifle slung across your front, your trigger stick tripod in your weak hand, and your thermal handheld in your strong hand.
With the front mount sling, it is super easy to stand the tripod up and place the rifle on the yoke without having to adjust your sling length.
For handheld thermal storage while shooting, I have one of my old (AR) mag dump pouches mounted on my belt on my strong hand side with a piece of sleeping mat foam cut to fit the bottom of the pouch to keep it open like a bucket. Super easy to flip the lens cap closed and drop it into the mag pouch (bucket) rather than trying to fiddle it into or out of its case. Its protected by the foam. Having it on your belt keeps it away from your rifle which is slung across your chest ie a chest bino harness wont work.

It is a very effective method of open ground pest control. In my experience, its not suitable for bush hunting ie don't go down this path if you are looking to use it for possums.

What is the eye relief distance for your creedmoor setup?

[QUOTE=hotbarrels;1174866 My solution and current setup is as follows:
Set your rifle up with a front mount, barrel down sling system, like the good old days when you used to own AR's. This make it super easy to have your rifle slung across your front, your trigger stick tripod in your weak hand, and your thermal handheld in your strong hand.

With the front mount sling, it is super easy to stand the tripod up and place the rifle on the yoke without having to adjust your sling length.
For handheld thermal storage while shooting, I have one of my old (AR) mag dump pouches mounted on my belt on my strong hand side with a piece of sleeping mat foam cut to fit the bottom of the pouch to keep it open like a bucket. Super easy to flip the lens cap closed and drop it into the mag pouch (bucket) rather than trying to fiddle it into or out of its case. Its protected by the foam. Having it on your belt keeps it away from your rifle which is slung across your chest ie a chest bino harness wont work.

It is a very effective method of open ground pest control. In my experience, its not suitable for bush hunting ie don't go down this path if you are looking to use it for possums.[/QUOTE]
I must try your idea, currently I use a chest rig to carry a thermal but do a lot of shooting from a quad. When working with a partner I don't carry a rifle just the thermal, with a lazer pointer fitted I id the target use the lazer to give point of aim and the partner shoots, very effective once you get your teamwork system going.

Originally Posted by hakka_ranger

What is the eye relief distance for your creedmoor setup?

Not at home at the moment so I cannot measure, but I run it as long as I can (ie max eye relief) and make sure I don’t crawl up the rifle if I am shooting prone. Haven’t had any issues with the creedmoor shooting factory 140’s, but to be fair, the CM recoil is pretty light. A 308 with heavy loads might be a different story.