Bino upgrade time
What’s the go to these days ????
Printable View
Bino upgrade time
What’s the go to these days ????
Swarovski
I'm running Sigs currently. Got them for a good price. Happy with them all in all. The Applied Ballistics software will give you a solution to 800 yards. Fine for hunting. Might not be the go for comp shooters. Optics are good but have got a subtle blue tint. Range finder aspect works well and has some legs
Depends if you want alpha glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by longrange308
The sig6k the best bang for buck and if real serious pair to the 5700 elite kestrel.
Wilsons doing 6k binos at $2800
Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk
I’d take a look at the Nikon Lazerforce RF binos.
A mate in Canada ha a pair and likes them a lot. Enough to get me curious. Nikon make great glass.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Has anyone had any experience with the newish Stiner RFB's?
Only problem Nikon stopped making scopes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicko
Don't know if I would want chance that happening with their binos?
Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk
Got the same, happy as with them, just a pain they don't come with lens coversQuote:
Originally Posted by Project17
Yeah it is a bit shit no lens caps. I brought some aftermarket scope caps. Work fine but it's an added cost for sureQuote:
Originally Posted by jono7
I had Sigs, now I have Deltas. I reckon they're better, and they were about a grand cheaper
Only optionQuote:
Originally Posted by EmpireSafaris
Depends how deep your wallet is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan F
They don't do anything better than the sig 6k.
More wank factor is about it.
Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk
“More wank factor” … rich coming from the nightforce no.1 fan boy xxQuote:
Originally Posted by andyanimal31
They do one thing way better, glass…. which is handy feature for binoculars
Is that meant to be a joke? If not, that’s a very poor bit of advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by andyanimal31
There's not 2.5k difference in glass quality.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sakoswarosorted
I will qualify what I mean for me.
My primary use is an accurate instrument for measuring ELR.
It does it better than Swarovski.
It pairs to my 5700 kestrel, swaro doesn't.
The glass is not as good granted but I don't need to be finding needles in a haystack either.
If swaro did what I needed them to I would buy them.
They don't so I won't.
I might be the nf #1 fan boy but that's for a very good reason .
I don't have to Nana them or use the elevation corection factor in my ballistics or worry about bending them and missing a shot of a life time.
Enjoy your great glass at your peril.
Cheers Andy
Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk
Better glass??Quote:
Originally Posted by LMcNab
Yes. Better lowlight imo
Do the Deltas have TBR angle correction ? Can the switch between yards and meters ? Presume no built in ballistic calculator ?Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEARONZ
Yes
Yes
No
If you choose the TBR setting it will display the LOS first followed by the TBR a second or two later
Imo unless the binos can measure environmentals there’s no point having in built ballistic calculators. I never used them in the sigs even when running a kestrel. It’s probably good for static range shooting but for hunting, glassing, moving, stalking, glassing again, repositioning, spooking the deer, find a new firing position, re range the deer… all the Bluetooth connectivity options are just destined to fail.
The Meopta RF are pretty good for the price. My mate got some and the glass is as good as my Zeiss conquest HD in low light. They range fast and far too. He got 15% off being NZDA getting them from Kilwell
Yes noticeably better glass, and nice lens caps. Delta fella was good to deal with too.
Vortex Fury ABs, I know how many Vortex haters abound on this forum, but I'm happy with them. Have used the life time guarantee for a scope, paid the price difference and upgraded seamlessly. Compared to Nikon HG binos I had before, I can't tell the difference in glass quality. Can input the ballistics of the rifle I'm using on the day, very convenient.
Yeah I'll put up my hand for these also. I have had them for 3 years and they have functioned flawlessly. Very good ranging and the glass has been more than good enough to find big Jap stags. They get used weekly in crap conditions and keep on ticking.Quote:
Originally Posted by flock
https://youtu.be/fePtfeCVQTA?si=1z0gqxz9xwBmj8lW
Some may find this comparison video by Area419 useful. Vector are an interesting proposition against the other two tier-1 LRF binos.
Gee are the sigs that blue :O_O:
Need to decide if you want any of the ballistic stuff.
The Sigs and Leica .com binos have the ability to bluetooth to a Kestrel or phone app.
Others just have built in ballistic solvers that don't blue tooth and others that just give distance/TBR.
Also need to decide if you want best of best glass, best/most user friendly ballistic software, or something value for money.
Been using my leica for over 10 years now, still very happy , will range camels on salt pans accurately ±1m to 1200m check against gps often. Very clear glass. And yes I use NF scopes as well.
How many people have shot animals out past 1km with data from their RF binos?
I carry a rangefinder (Leica 2700B) and separate binos (Swarovski 10x42 EL).
Don't have ground where I can safely shoot beyond 300m at the moment. So not worried at all.
Shot targets put to 1.5km but I'd say the best binos in the world can't give you a wind call within 2-5mph
Most data stops at 800 on binos I think unless paired with a krestal in which case it’s very reliableQuote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
It’s the same as shooting that distance off a printed out drop chart. You’re stuck with your default environmental data.
If you want RF binos to do all the thinking for you out that far or in different environments you will need to pair with a kestrel or invest in something like the sig10k
I get it for LR target/steel shootingQuote:
Originally Posted by Kelton
My annoyance comes from the following:
1. RF binos will always have worse glass due to the arrangement of lenses being sub optimal. I've tried every top tier brand (Leica, Swaro, Ziess , the latter being the worst) and none of them have better or 'as good as' glass compared to the same non-LRF version. Leica has the best arrangement out of the three but I have never liked the ergonomics of Leica binoculars, which is more than half the battle as an unsteady hold means it's pointless to try and range/observe. Swarovski still has the best glass but their LRF binos have always possessed tumours on the underside which does nothing to help the hold.
The lower tier Asian sweat shop assembled binos (Vortex, Sig, Kahles) may be better in terms of the software inside, but the glass isn't even on the same planet. Sorry if you think so, because it means your eyes are fucked.
2. Carting a set of binos; or worse still, a scope, with LRF and ballistics built in, is all well and good until it either stops working (electronic circuits will pack up eventually, not a question of IF but WHEN) or the battery goes flat. Easy enough to carry a spare battery, but try getting the electronics fixed on an older pair of LRF binos. You'll either get a bill which is 40% of a new pair, or the person on the other end of the phone will be saying 'Guys, listen to this mug who wants their 10 year old pair of LRF binos repaired! For free! :ORLY: '
Sure, Vortex is 'lifetime warranty' but that's been factored into the dealer cost already. You've paid for 2-3x of what a single product would otherwise cost without that warranty.
3. A separate LRF unit is the only logical way to go. Chop and change at anytime without taking a huge hit on resale. Leupold just released a 5k yards handheld LRF...https://www.leupold.com/rx-5000-tbr-w-rangefinder
You’re not wrong but it’s also economics.
Sigs, deltas etc do everting sufficiently well for around $2-3k
The next jump for me personally would be a pair of swaro pures and a lightweight Lrf which has me looking down the barrel of $6k
That’s a 50% cost increase for relatively small returns. It’s something I’ll do eventually but I’m certainly in no rush.
Leupold rangefinders a notoriously shit and what’s the difference of the tech failing in binos vs a hand held . Binos no matter the shape are easier to hold steady given you hold them with to hands it’s a lot easier to get a range when glassing rather than swapping units and trying to find the animal again terrain dependant obviously . Everyone’s held up on warrenty it’s what insurance is forQuote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
Good to hear, I just picked up a pair as well and can’t wait to get them out and about. Have had a bit of a cash splash and I bought a Sig Tango 4 in 6-24x50, going to mount on a Bergara LRP in .308 and see how they all work together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Project17
The Binos seem pretty good so far and they range very similar to my Kilo 2200 rangefinder, depends how steady I hold them. For reference I’m ranging a building wall at 980 yards with the binos and 978 with the 2200… someone more knowledgeable can tell me if that’s an acceptable difference?
Weight wise they are 920g, my rangefinder and Leupold BX2’s + sig 220 weigh 940g. I used to run BX4’s which were real nice but definitely more bulk and weight so I went for the smaller BX2’s. Both 10x42’s.
That’s more than acceptable that’s the difference in putting one down and picking up the other and taking a step that’s awesomeQuote:
Originally Posted by JDinMaui
Reason I splashed on rangefinder binos was the situation where glassing - spotted an animal by the time I had found it in the seperate range finder & then the scope, the animal had gone. Don't believe in using a scope for glassing thats just wrong, so a range finding scope wasn't an option. Agree glass isn't as good but overall happy with my choice.
Not to mention it's then more difficult to try find the animal again with the RF with less magnification, smaller FOV and harder to hold steady.Quote:
Originally Posted by flock
Quote:
Originally Posted by flock
Do you really think the difference between swapping bino to RF unit is going to make the difference between getting a shot off?Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetroot
If you are talking a 500m+ shot, you are not taking a snap shot... if the animal is 300m or under, why even bother ranging?
If it's a safe shot, throw the rifle up, take aim (or hold over/dial) and fire.
I suspect a lot of people are not familliar with the ballistics of their rifle or terrain they are in and rely on gear telling them what to do...
If I see a deer somewhere I've not been before, I'll range the area from where I am, no need to range if I'm there and see deer again (highly likely if you don't throw a hail mary shot).
Sadly the first or second thing asked about a successful hunt nowadays is 'How far was it?" (I'm guilty of this myself).
Well this has strayed from the OP's original innocent enquiry.